My SES light is GONE!!!
Well, I'll be the first to admit it, I was stupid!
I thought I had fouled-out my O2 sensors after doing a SeaFoam treatment, because the next day I got an SES light while driving. I couldn't have the code read cause it only came on while driving, and while at a stoplight for about 20-30 sec it would go away. I was CONVINCED this was my O2's and even alot of other guys tried to help and blindly troubleshoot since I could not get the car scanned...well just now I went outside after reading a post on how to reset the PCM, I figured this might delete the code. So here I am looking at my fuse box under the hood and I notice one of the fuses is kinda not seated all the way so I pushed it back in (this did not fix the problem by the way, it was for fog lights, and they worked) but this made me decide to go ahead and check all the fuses while I waited a few seconds for the PCM to reset after I pulled its fuse....well lo-and-behold the fuse for the AIR pump has blown
. It's a 20 amp so I swapped it with the 20 amp fog light fuse that was good...the result? NO SES LIGHT! D'oh...
Well, to make a long story even longer, I would like to apologize to those who have tried to help me
for wasting thier time when a simple conditional check of fuses was all I needed...
I hope my stupidity can inspire the younger guys to FULLY check all of thier system before askin the board a question...
PS- Now my fog lights don't work, but I know how to fix that
--Tim
I thought I had fouled-out my O2 sensors after doing a SeaFoam treatment, because the next day I got an SES light while driving. I couldn't have the code read cause it only came on while driving, and while at a stoplight for about 20-30 sec it would go away. I was CONVINCED this was my O2's and even alot of other guys tried to help and blindly troubleshoot since I could not get the car scanned...well just now I went outside after reading a post on how to reset the PCM, I figured this might delete the code. So here I am looking at my fuse box under the hood and I notice one of the fuses is kinda not seated all the way so I pushed it back in (this did not fix the problem by the way, it was for fog lights, and they worked) but this made me decide to go ahead and check all the fuses while I waited a few seconds for the PCM to reset after I pulled its fuse....well lo-and-behold the fuse for the AIR pump has blown
. It's a 20 amp so I swapped it with the 20 amp fog light fuse that was good...the result? NO SES LIGHT! D'oh...Well, to make a long story even longer, I would like to apologize to those who have tried to help me
for wasting thier time when a simple conditional check of fuses was all I needed...I hope my stupidity can inspire the younger guys to FULLY check all of thier system before askin the board a question...
PS- Now my fog lights don't work, but I know how to fix that
--Tim
Well thanx anyways Fear, I guess I read over that message or something, or I might have ASSumed it wasn't that cause about a month or two ago I had looked at the fuses and all was well...Sorry bout that buddy! Thanx again...
--Tim
--Tim
well more than likely you will be replacing them often cause it probably means the air pump is going out. I had to replace mine several times a day until i ran out of fuses so i finally just yanked the air off.
Greasepunk had the same problem. The ses light would kick on when running and at idle, but not when stopped while in drive. Sent it to a chevy dealer cause free diagnostics from local shops wouldn't get a code. When they checked it there was ice
near the MAF. They checked the air pump, and said it would be $400 well lucky me! The air pump was recalled in OCT. 00 s
, so if you still blow fuses check to see if your pump is bad, you might still fall under the recall.
Looks like i'm getting a power reprogrammer with the money i saved
Here is the link that i stumbled across before they charged me the $
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/10/951002FC.html
Hope i saved some people some money on my first post!
near the MAF. They checked the air pump, and said it would be $400 well lucky me! The air pump was recalled in OCT. 00 s
, so if you still blow fuses check to see if your pump is bad, you might still fall under the recall. Looks like i'm getting a power reprogrammer with the money i saved
Here is the link that i stumbled across before they charged me the $
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/10/951002FC.html
Hope i saved some people some money on my first post!
And, of course, the best thing about finding a TSB that seems to cover a persistent problem in your vehicle is that dealerships will make the repair for free, provided that
Your vehicle is under warranty;
Your service advisor and/or technicians are able to confirm that the problem exists
D'oh...oh well...might be time for !A.I.R.
Your vehicle is under warranty;
Your service advisor and/or technicians are able to confirm that the problem exists
D'oh...oh well...might be time for !A.I.R.
Geez. I wish I would have seen your posts. I could have told ya that. I've been having the same problem, but mine keeps blowing fuses. Even when I put a 30 amp in. So I guess I'm kinda warning you that it will more than likely blow again. Why? I have no fawking idea. But my air pump is coming off this spring. I've been told that moisture in the pump could be causing this. If you do blow more fuses and can't or don't want to do the A.I.R. mod then take it to the dealer and get a new one.
I was told by the dealership this past summer that the air pumps were still under recall.
I was told by the dealership this past summer that the air pumps were still under recall.
Last edited by Rich_z28; Feb 17, 2003 at 04:22 PM.
I'll have to do some more research on what all is involved in the !AIR pump procedure, if it will throw a code afterwards etc...
Can I get the new one for free since it is a recall even though it's not under warranty an was bought from an independant dealer, not GM?
Can I get the new one for free since it is a recall even though it's not under warranty an was bought from an independant dealer, not GM?
There's not much involved. Just remove the air pump and plug the holes in the top of your headers/manifold with a M22 plug. Also if you don't remove the fuse, it won't trhow a code even though the pump is gone. At least that's what I've been told about the SES light.
Guys, all you have to do is take the burnt fuse out, and leave it out. Mine kept doing the same thing, dealer checked it out and wanted to charge me something like $300 for the repair. Of course later that night I read somewhere on here just to yank the fuse. No more problems, and no more SES light.


