My complete LE2 H/C swap list (I hope, lol)
05-01-2007, 08:20 PM
#1
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My complete LE2 H/C swap list (I hope, lol)
This is my list for the LE2 swap I am going to be doing, let me know if I need to add more, or any other comments on the set up.
The car is a 1994 Trans Am, 28K miles, Has an intake, Jet hot LT's, 3 inch exhaust, PBA race built tranny w/cooler, 2800 fuddle converter 2.2str, NX wet nitrous w/mallory 685, racetronix 255 pump, stock rear (3.23) w/ stock DS. It also has a lot of suspension work done.
Now, onto the parts list.
LE2 heads and cam.
SVO 30lb injectors.
Factory Lifters. (only 28K on them)
GM Performance Parts Pushrod Guideplates.
Comp Cams Hi-Tech One Piece Chromemoly Pushrods (7.200 for non impalla head gasket, right?)
Comp Cams Pro-Magnum 1.6rr (SA or NSA???)
Complete Gasket Set (CMS)
95 GM Optispark.
95 Opti elec harness.
Opti vacuum harness
Opti vacuum fitting
95 Timing cover (incl all 3 seals)
GM timing cover gasket
Cloyes double roller CLO-9-3145
meziere E-water pump.
10 quarts of dino oil (do not use synthetic for initial startup)
5 quarts of your preferred oil (for use right after install)
3 oil filters (2 standards, and 1 of your favorite)
2 gallons of coolant
2 gallons of distilled water
RTV sealant
Thread sealant
Antiseize
Loctite (medium grade)
Liquid wrench (spray type is better)
Assembly lube (necessary for lifters, cam, pushrods, and rockers) - should come with cam
Harmonic balancer puller
A longer bolt that matches the crankshaft bolt (preferrably high grade tempered steel).
Crankshaft sprocket puller and installer if you are replacing the crankshaft sprocket.
Water pump driveshaft puller and installer if you are replacing it.
GM fuel rail disconnect tool.
Torque wrench - you don't need higher than 70 ft. lb. (in. lb. and ft. lb., but you can get away with just ft. lb.)
If you can't tell, I pulled various bits of info across the net (Thanks shoebox and Alex Afrashteh)
Let me know what you think, does it seem pretty complete? Any other suggestions?
I will be getting a tune from Andy from Dynotune in South Dakota.
EDIT: if you have Part #'s that should be used, let me know. The more help the better.
The car is a 1994 Trans Am, 28K miles, Has an intake, Jet hot LT's, 3 inch exhaust, PBA race built tranny w/cooler, 2800 fuddle converter 2.2str, NX wet nitrous w/mallory 685, racetronix 255 pump, stock rear (3.23) w/ stock DS. It also has a lot of suspension work done.
Now, onto the parts list.
LE2 heads and cam.
SVO 30lb injectors.
Factory Lifters. (only 28K on them)
GM Performance Parts Pushrod Guideplates.
Comp Cams Hi-Tech One Piece Chromemoly Pushrods (7.200 for non impalla head gasket, right?)
Comp Cams Pro-Magnum 1.6rr (SA or NSA???)
Complete Gasket Set (CMS)
95 GM Optispark.
95 Opti elec harness.
Opti vacuum harness
Opti vacuum fitting
95 Timing cover (incl all 3 seals)
GM timing cover gasket
Cloyes double roller CLO-9-3145
meziere E-water pump.
10 quarts of dino oil (do not use synthetic for initial startup)
5 quarts of your preferred oil (for use right after install)
3 oil filters (2 standards, and 1 of your favorite)
2 gallons of coolant
2 gallons of distilled water
RTV sealant
Thread sealant
Antiseize
Loctite (medium grade)
Liquid wrench (spray type is better)
Assembly lube (necessary for lifters, cam, pushrods, and rockers) - should come with cam
Harmonic balancer puller
A longer bolt that matches the crankshaft bolt (preferrably high grade tempered steel).
Crankshaft sprocket puller and installer if you are replacing the crankshaft sprocket.
Water pump driveshaft puller and installer if you are replacing it.
GM fuel rail disconnect tool.
Torque wrench - you don't need higher than 70 ft. lb. (in. lb. and ft. lb., but you can get away with just ft. lb.)
If you can't tell, I pulled various bits of info across the net (Thanks shoebox and Alex Afrashteh)
Let me know what you think, does it seem pretty complete? Any other suggestions?
I will be getting a tune from Andy from Dynotune in South Dakota.
EDIT: if you have Part #'s that should be used, let me know. The more help the better.
05-01-2007, 08:33 PM
#3
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05-01-2007, 09:10 PM
#4
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Location: Mobile, Ala..USA
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When you put an electric water pump on a LT1 you have to plug the unused holes in the timing cover and water pump where the "drive" used to be.
Oh yeh and an electric water pump relay kit
David
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 05-01-2007 at 09:15 PM.
05-02-2007, 01:16 AM
#8
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Posts: 107
i don't think you need to worry about all that oil stuff. you use the dino oil and changes for seating the rings i believe. unless you rebuilt the bottom end you can just put syn oil in and go, no real break in needed for H/C
05-02-2007, 08:43 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Carol Stream, Il.
Posts: 3,557
Kind of sounds like my check list from a few years back, Only mines a 94 Z with 29k on the clock. 
Do a search about the assembly lube, most engine builders will tell you it's not necessary and shy away from it, for what you want to do. And if you want a set of the Hi-Tech 7.20 pushrods that have a little over 500 miles on them for a good price, pm me. Good luck, Rick.
Do a search about the assembly lube, most engine builders will tell you it's not necessary and shy away from it, for what you want to do. And if you want a set of the Hi-Tech 7.20 pushrods that have a little over 500 miles on them for a good price, pm me. Good luck, Rick.
05-02-2007, 10:58 AM
#14
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Location: Jupiter (NPB), Fl
Posts: 3,852
comp 9" wheel, comp crank turning nut with a woodruff key purchased from a hardware store ground down to fit my front crank slot, comp "heads off" piston stop, and a dial indicator and mag base set from harbor frieght.
Also, check your pushrod length after install. You could probably buy both 7.2's and 7.15" and one of those will be OK, just return the one you don't use.
Also, check your pushrod length after install. You could probably buy both 7.2's and 7.15" and one of those will be OK, just return the one you don't use.
05-02-2007, 11:10 AM
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2002
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comp 9" wheel, comp crank turning nut with a woodruff key purchased from a hardware store ground down to fit my front crank slot, comp "heads off" piston stop, and a dial indicator and mag base set from harbor frieght.
Also, check your pushrod length after install. You could probably buy both 7.2's and 7.15" and one of those will be OK, just return the one you don't use.
Also, check your pushrod length after install. You could probably buy both 7.2's and 7.15" and one of those will be OK, just return the one you don't use.
What about head bolts?