My complete LE2 H/C swap list (I hope, lol)
This is my list for the LE2 swap I am going to be doing, let me know if I need to add more, or any other comments on the set up.
The car is a 1994 Trans Am, 28K miles, Has an intake, Jet hot LT's, 3 inch exhaust, PBA race built tranny w/cooler, 2800 fuddle converter 2.2str, NX wet nitrous w/mallory 685, racetronix 255 pump, stock rear (3.23) w/ stock DS. It also has a lot of suspension work done. Now, onto the parts list. LE2 heads and cam. SVO 30lb injectors. Factory Lifters. (only 28K on them) GM Performance Parts Pushrod Guideplates. Comp Cams Hi-Tech One Piece Chromemoly Pushrods (7.200 for non impalla head gasket, right?) Comp Cams Pro-Magnum 1.6rr (SA or NSA???) Complete Gasket Set (CMS) 95 GM Optispark. 95 Opti elec harness. Opti vacuum harness Opti vacuum fitting 95 Timing cover (incl all 3 seals) GM timing cover gasket Cloyes double roller CLO-9-3145 meziere E-water pump. 10 quarts of dino oil (do not use synthetic for initial startup) 5 quarts of your preferred oil (for use right after install) 3 oil filters (2 standards, and 1 of your favorite) 2 gallons of coolant 2 gallons of distilled water RTV sealant Thread sealant Antiseize Loctite (medium grade) Liquid wrench (spray type is better) Assembly lube (necessary for lifters, cam, pushrods, and rockers) - should come with cam Harmonic balancer puller A longer bolt that matches the crankshaft bolt (preferrably high grade tempered steel). Crankshaft sprocket puller and installer if you are replacing the crankshaft sprocket. Water pump driveshaft puller and installer if you are replacing it. GM fuel rail disconnect tool. Torque wrench - you don't need higher than 70 ft. lb. (in. lb. and ft. lb., but you can get away with just ft. lb.) If you can't tell, I pulled various bits of info across the net (Thanks shoebox and Alex Afrashteh) Let me know what you think, does it seem pretty complete? Any other suggestions? I will be getting a tune from Andy from Dynotune in South Dakota. EDIT: if you have Part #'s that should be used, let me know. The more help the better. |
Cheaper to buy a "head set"
freeze plugs for the timing cover and water pump |
Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
(Post 4577127)
Cheaper to buy a "head set"
freeze plugs for the timing cover and water pump And what are the freeze plugs you are refering to? |
Originally Posted by 94NDTA
(Post 4577140)
Sorry, but what is a "head set"?
And what are the freeze plugs you are refering to? When you put an electric water pump on a LT1 you have to plug the unused holes in the timing cover and water pump where the "drive" used to be. Oh yeh and an electric water pump relay kit David |
Mkay. The CMS kit is a complete set.
So I'm missing freeze plugs for the WP pump and a relay kit for the WP as well. Have any part #'s for these? |
NSA recommended, and with those you would need guideplates.
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Thats what I figured. How does the rest of the set up look?
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i don't think you need to worry about all that oil stuff. you use the dino oil and changes for seating the rings i believe. unless you rebuilt the bottom end you can just put syn oil in and go, no real break in needed for H/C
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Kind of sounds like my check list from a few years back, Only mines a 94 Z with 29k on the clock. ;) Do a search about the assembly lube, most engine builders will tell you it's not necessary and shy away from it, for what you want to do. And if you want a set of the Hi-Tech 7.20 pushrods that have a little over 500 miles on them for a good price, pm me. Good luck, Rick.
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Sounds good.
Also, with the LE2 and non Impy gaskets, will 7.200 work for me, or will I want 7.150? |
You didn't list the stuff necessary to check cam degree....
Do that. |
Like what would that be?
Also, do I need new head bolts? |
Originally Posted by 94NDTA
(Post 4577965)
Sounds good.
Also, with the LE2 and non Impy gaskets, will 7.200 work for me, or will I want 7.150? |
Originally Posted by 94NDTA
(Post 4578001)
Like what would that be?
Also, check your pushrod length after install. You could probably buy both 7.2's and 7.15" and one of those will be OK, just return the one you don't use. |
Originally Posted by Javier97Z28
(Post 4578038)
comp 9" wheel, comp crank turning nut with a woodruff key purchased from a hardware store ground down to fit my front crank slot, comp "heads off" piston stop, and a dial indicator and mag base set from harbor frieght.
Also, check your pushrod length after install. You could probably buy both 7.2's and 7.15" and one of those will be OK, just return the one you don't use. What about head bolts? |
Originally Posted by 94NDTA
(Post 4578074)
Ok, sounds good.
What about head bolts? |
Do you have a part # on these arp head bolts?
how can I measure if I need 7.150 or 7.200? |
Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
(Post 4577127)
Cheaper to buy a "head set"
freeze plugs for the timing cover and water pump http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...Meziere_HD.jpg |
The freeze plug in the kit is to block the back of the water pump, not the timing cover where the drive used to be.
Yes get head bolts as the factory ones are torque to yeild bolts and can only be torqued once. You can get factory replacements from O'Reilly's or ARP bolts/studs depending on what you want to do. Also Iw ould look at bigger injectors than 30, probably 36, IMO. |
Okie Dokie. I'll revise my list tonight and put it up. Hopefull I can get this beast underway!
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