This is awesome. Many CZer's and future/current LT1 owners owe you a big one for this.
Great job man.

 

yea man this is sweet. never had a chance to pull my motor or work on it in anyway this would be great to learn and see how its done right. thanks man.

 

No problem. I'm working on the bottom end of the motor today and tomorrow and I should have my whole project done by the weekend hopefully...

 

Ok guys chugging along. Here is the clip for how to set your crank in a fresh bottom end...

 

Another clip guys...how to check crankshaft runout...

 

damn, your project is moving along faster than mine and you taped it!.. did you have the block in a machine shop?... that held me up for more than a month.

 

I was lucky enough to pick the block up off a friend with .030 bored over and new freeze plugs and cam bearings. I got it and a full dissassembled lt1 for $300 which was impossible to pass up. So I used the money saved and went stroker...tonight will be a very late night and I anticipate to be putting it all back together in the next few days. I'm still waiting on my valvesprings to get here....

 

lucky bastard. a block that clean for $300.. with those things.. I paid more than that for cleaning, bore, hone, and deck. grrr.. You going to deck it?..

 

Not gonna deck it. The pistons are already .005 from deck height and the heads were milled about .010 so no need. Compression will be near 11.7:1....

 

Not the video I was hoping for..............

 

What exactly are you looking for Dan? Just let me know I really do appreciate feedback. Keep in mind this is just one clip out of around 300 in the video. I'm sorry but I am limited to my 5 megapixel camera right now but there is no reason anyone can not clearly see and hear what is going on.

 

Completely assembled bottom end (383 Stroker)... Finally got all of the tons of clearances and tolerances measured and check as well as piston ring gaps.

 

Keeping you guys updated here with a piston ring gapping clip... This whole film will be head to toe with no question in between.

 

Tighter on the lower ring????

 

That was interesting to me as well but that is what they recommend. Apparently the KB pistons make more power which generates a lot more heat around the top ring thus why it must be gapped higher. Here is the article. I also mention to check with your manufacturer as that is the best way to be sure. I wouldn't take anyones word on the ring gapping except for the manufacturer...

http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=32