The most effective suspension mods
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 351
From: South Holland,IL
The most effective suspension mods
I have a question about suspension mods.They can cost alot of money,I just want to know what to get in my situation.I want more power to the rear wheels off the line and don't really want to lower my car,but if it helps alot I will do it.I am leaning towards the 60' factor on the track.I have a TC,4.10,nittos and thats about it right now.any feedback would be nice
Registered User
Joined: Aug 1998
Posts: 823
From: houston, tx
Best thing you could do for your 60's at the track is go with a better tire (et streets, qtps, or slicks), a larger than stock stall (if you havent already), and spray it out of the hole.
Last edited by speedmiser; Feb 26, 2003 at 11:12 AM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 351
From: South Holland,IL
Originally posted by speedmiser
Best thing you could do for your 60's at the track is go with a better tire (et streets, qtps, or slicks) and a larger than stock stall (if you havent already).
Best thing you could do for your 60's at the track is go with a better tire (et streets, qtps, or slicks) and a larger than stock stall (if you havent already).
Nittos aren't good enough?
Administrator
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 3,664
From: Brunswick, Maine 04011
1. Et Streets
2. Disconnect front sway bar
3. Drag springs, shocks, and an airbag.
4. Lightweight front rims and tires
5. If you get into the 11's at an NHRA track you will need a roll bar. Do this instead of subframe connectors (save the weight).
Its all about the transfer of weight from front to back. Lowered cars are more difficult to hook up at low power levels. You want the driver side wheel to lift slightly. You want the rear tires to wrinkle.
Don't waste your money on a bunch of heavy duty components that add weight to your car until you have to do it. I still have the stock torque arm and have never had subframe connectors. I hook up just fine but the rollbar does help stiffen the chassis. My 60' times are high 1.5's and low 1.6's.
2. Disconnect front sway bar
3. Drag springs, shocks, and an airbag.
4. Lightweight front rims and tires
5. If you get into the 11's at an NHRA track you will need a roll bar. Do this instead of subframe connectors (save the weight).
Its all about the transfer of weight from front to back. Lowered cars are more difficult to hook up at low power levels. You want the driver side wheel to lift slightly. You want the rear tires to wrinkle.
Don't waste your money on a bunch of heavy duty components that add weight to your car until you have to do it. I still have the stock torque arm and have never had subframe connectors. I hook up just fine but the rollbar does help stiffen the chassis. My 60' times are high 1.5's and low 1.6's.
Last edited by TedH; Feb 26, 2003 at 11:20 AM.
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Joined: Aug 1998
Posts: 823
From: houston, tx
Originally posted by 5H9D0W
Nittos aren't good enough?
Nittos aren't good enough?
Last edited by speedmiser; Feb 26, 2003 at 11:24 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 8,319
From: US 1 Mile Marker 52 in the Florida Keys
first off, lowering your car will negatively affect your ability to lauch well at the track...so if yo want low 60' times, don't lower the car
mods that will help your launch will be subframe connectors to stiffen the chassis, lower control arms with relocation brackets, and an aftermarket torque arm.
you should at least look into the LCA's and brackets, BMR sells them for around $90 for the lca and thier brackets aren't bad either. these will probably give you the best traction boost.
if you don't want to spend the $300+ on a torque arm, at least go for a polygraphite bushing, about $15 from summit/jegs.
if you want to mess with springs/shocks, you can spend the money on drag launch springs and some drag shocks, or adjustable shocks so that you maintain some street manners. or you could go the cheaper route and get some V6 springs and your choice in shocks
mods that will help your launch will be subframe connectors to stiffen the chassis, lower control arms with relocation brackets, and an aftermarket torque arm.
you should at least look into the LCA's and brackets, BMR sells them for around $90 for the lca and thier brackets aren't bad either. these will probably give you the best traction boost.
if you don't want to spend the $300+ on a torque arm, at least go for a polygraphite bushing, about $15 from summit/jegs.
if you want to mess with springs/shocks, you can spend the money on drag launch springs and some drag shocks, or adjustable shocks so that you maintain some street manners. or you could go the cheaper route and get some V6 springs and your choice in shocks
Registered User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,647
From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Spohn Lower Control Arms and relocation brackets.
Airbag in the passenger side rear coil.
These three items will give you the most bang for your buck for straight line acceleration.
www.sybersport.com carries Spohn.
Email Darren at info@sybersport.com or call him at 204-254-4476 and tell him Grip sent you for the best possible deal.
BFG Drag Radials hook really well too.
Airbag in the passenger side rear coil.
These three items will give you the most bang for your buck for straight line acceleration.
www.sybersport.com carries Spohn.
Email Darren at info@sybersport.com or call him at 204-254-4476 and tell him Grip sent you for the best possible deal.
BFG Drag Radials hook really well too.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 50
Call Sam Strano and stranoparts, he will tell and explain to you anything you could ever want to know about suspension. I talked with him for over an hour, he explained to me how some/most of the sh** people tell you to do on here and other sites is not correct, depending on what other mods you have and the type of driver you are and roads your driving on. He takes all this into consideration, then recommends something.
After speaking with him I have decided to go with BMR stb, kbdd sfc's, bilstein HDs, Eibach Pro kit, 35mm front sway bar, polygraphite bushing front rebuild kit, and rear sway bar bushings, custom CNC machined 6061 T6 aluminum LCA's and Panhard bar. Haven't decided on relocation brackets yet.
Good luck.
After speaking with him I have decided to go with BMR stb, kbdd sfc's, bilstein HDs, Eibach Pro kit, 35mm front sway bar, polygraphite bushing front rebuild kit, and rear sway bar bushings, custom CNC machined 6061 T6 aluminum LCA's and Panhard bar. Haven't decided on relocation brackets yet.
Good luck.
