I just received my new Moser 12-bolt setup today. I ordered it from Thunder Racing with 33-spline axles, 4.11 gears, Eaton posi, and 4-channel ABS/Traction control setup with exciter rings. I wanted to get the TA perfromance aluminum cover, but I didn't have the extra $ so I decided to get it later.
BUT, when I opened the box today, it has the TA aluminum cover installed!? Now, this could be good or bad. What I'm worried about is if they installed the wrong cover, did they install any other wrong parts also? When getting the rear installed I plan to have the shop verify the gear ratio and posi are the correct pieces. The packing slip listed all the right options that I ordered, but only lists the cover option as "12 bolt chevy car rear cover", which could apply to either the standard chrome cover which I thought I was going to get, or the TA aluminum one.

If all the other options are correct and they could gave me a free TA cover, then kick-***. Hopefully all the other things are right though, I really hope they didn't ship me someone else's rearend with 3.42 gears and a spool or something!
Anyone else ever had a mix-up like this with Moser? I've heard that sometimes Moser sets up the gears a little too tight, but never mixing up parts.

I also wondered about LCA issues. My car my Eibach sportline 2" lowering springs, and I ordered a new pair of BMR weld-in LCA relocation brackets for the new rear. Anyone installed these or similar ones on a Moser, did it work alright? I read one guys post that said he needed adjustable LCA's to get his pinion angle right to avoid vibration. Will be non-adjustable BMR LCA's be alright?, or is it just stock LCA's that cause problems? Seems like everything on these rears needs some sort of modification.

Those issues aside, I've done a lot of searches on this board about installing the Moser, and I think I've heard about most the potential issues. See if this sheme looks right:

1. I ordered the 1310 yoke, so I shouldn't have to shorten the stock DS like with the 1350 heavy duty yoke.
2. going to get 3" muffler clamps to install my BMR sway bar. I think I should be able to use the old bushings/bracket and just drill new holes for the 3" clamp, right?
3. ordered POR-15 rust preventative paint (have to wait for the damn shipping time now though, with the rearend sitting in the living room! ). Should I leave the LCA brackets bare if I need to have the LCA brackets welded on still? I would imagine so.
4. I have a BMR Torque arm. I hear others have problems with the TA hitting the column, but they reversed the bolts (bolt head on top). Moser's instructions say that you'll need longer bolts if you have an aftermarket TA. Will the BMR bolts work? So far the options are 2 stock bolts, 4 shorter Moser bolts, or longer mystery bolts?
5. Will have to check BMR panhard bar clearance with TA cover, grind bolt to make it clear?

Think that's it, whew. Let me know if I missed any potential issues, and I'll post any more problems I have as they come up. Thanks in advance for any input!

 

ttt

 

I've got a Moser with a similar setup:

1. I have the 1350 series yoke so I did get a custom driveshaft. I would recommend that you check driveshaft play even with the 1310 - especially since your car is lowered.

2. I don't have the BMR sway bar and tried the 3" muffler clamp route for mounting the sway bar and just didn't like this setup . I ordered the kit sway bar mounting kit and had the brackets welded to the rear end for $10.00. They make a kit for the 21mm BMR sway bar which includes poly bushings.

3. I would leave them bare until welding.

4. I have the stock torque arm which as you know with a stock rear uses a bolt/nut. The moser rear end uses a threaded hole - no bolt, so I might believe that you need a longer bolt.

5. I have a stock panhard bar, but I could believe that you could have clearance issues, mine comes very close to the cover. I have the Moser cast aluminum cover btw.

Install actually isn't too bad. It's actually easier if you do it with the driveshaft bolted up to the rear end - gives you leverage to tilt the rear to the position that you want when mounting it. The spring perches on the moser are "taller", and you might be surprised at how much lower you need to drop the rear end to get the shocks and springs back on so give yourself plenty of clearance when you jack the car up. Did mine in a driveway without too much trouble. 2 guys in about 4 or 5 hours.

Good Luck!

 

I bet your just lucky on the cover. Its easy to verify gear ratio once the axels are in or just pull the cover and count the teeth.
I ordered LCA reloc.brackets specific for the Moser from spohn so if yours aren't for the moser that could be an issue. :dunno:
Any non adjustable LCA should be the same length as stock.
I used the bolts moser supplied and I have a sphon t.a.
Be preparred to buy an adjustable pan-hard rod. I had to but i run 315's out back so it had to be perfect.

 

I've already got the BMR adjustable panhard bar, so that's not a problem. In regards to checking the gear ratio, what am I looking for when I count the teeth? How many teeth are 4.11 gears suppossed to have? Once the axles are in, I assume that you can turn the yoke once and count how many times the axles rotate. Is this the most accurate way to check? Will the ratio be marked anywhere on the actual gear set? I might try to test-fit the LCA brackets on the moser mounting brackets and see how it look.

Also, does the TA cover that's installed on the Moser come installed with the optional "main cap stud kit"? I think that the studs have different torque specs that the normal load bolts. Are the main cap bolts just the two bolts on the center section of the cover, and the rest just mounting bolts?

 

Just count the number of teeth on each gear then divide the two numbers by each other. I dont know the number of teeth but it wont matter, just count and then divide.
I have the regular chrome 12 bolt cover but I did buy a HD cover for my 10 bolt and the main cap support studs just screw down enough to contact the caps and thats all they needed, no preload. So if/when you reinstall, back way off of them, install the cover as usual then just run the support studs down to finger tight. That TA cover might have a different set up but either way it should be obvious if/when you pull the cover off.