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Morel lifter lash setting - .030??

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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 07:29 AM
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Denny McLain's Avatar
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Morel lifter lash setting - .030??

I've heard Bret Bauer recommend a .030 lash setting for the Morel lifters. My problem is I do much better with how many turns (in this case, how much of a partial turn) that I do trying to figure out what .030 is. Also, is that hot or cold?

Normally I set the last about a quarter turn during reinstall of the rockers, start the car to get it warm and readjust them running to around 1/16th turn. The Delteg ignition is a bit of a pain because it sits on top of the valve cover so I may skip resetting the warm lash and just go for the cold setting.

Tell me something I don't know.
Old Mar 18, 2007 | 06:08 PM
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Denny, that's what Morel recomends, I've found on the engine dyno that less makes more power like all hyd lifters. It was worth 10hp. You set the preload in running condition (hot)

Bret
Old Mar 18, 2007 | 07:01 PM
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i talked to a friend today that worked 15 yr.s for gm building engines and we got to talking about preload and he said, "that you want to set the lash to what ever the manufacture recommends because that determines where the plunger in the hyd. lifter is center so that your valves will open the whole way..."
and it seems to make scence to me...
is he wrong?
Old Mar 18, 2007 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ZL1modified
i talked to a friend today that worked 15 yr.s for gm building engines and we got to talking about preload and he said, "that you want to set the lash to what ever the manufacture recommends because that determines where the plunger in the hyd. lifter is center so that your valves will open the whole way..."
and it seems to make scence to me...
is he wrong?
....IMO, and Experience, There is no one fits all lifter preload setting for every engine combo...stock engines like the ones built at the factory that only REV to 6000 or so can get away with the recomended 3/4 turn of lifter preload(or even more), but when you moddify an engine and raise the motors RPM range, things that the factory diddn't have to account for start to happen ..IE: lifter pump up, Valve float because of heavy hydrolic roller lifters, ECT......My current engine combo for example: likes "nothing" but a zero lash setting(aproximately 1/16 turn just to lock the poly lock).....and I've tried just about every setting possible, starting with the manufactures recomendation first......The right setting is the one that makes the most power and won't destroy parts, Period ..........Joe
Old Mar 18, 2007 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ZL1modified
i talked to a friend today that worked 15 yr.s for gm building engines and we got to talking about preload and he said, "that you want to set the lash to what ever the manufacture recommends because that determines where the plunger in the hyd. lifter is center so that your valves will open the whole way..."
and it seems to make scence to me...
is he wrong?
sorry, when he said manufacturer. he meant the lifter manufacturer...
Old Mar 18, 2007 | 10:31 PM
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Yeah but if you change the PR length then you solve part of the geometry issue, still if the dyno says it works better with less, I don't see a issue with that. Otherwise you would have to design the cams with more preload in the system. Joe B's design wasn't done with that much preload in it so thats one reason why is likes it with less. ;-)

Bret
Old Mar 18, 2007 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Yeah but if you change the PR length then you solve part of the geometry issue, still if the dyno says it works better with less, I don't see a issue with that. Otherwise you would have to design the cams with more preload in the system. Joe B's design wasn't done with that much preload in it so thats one reason why is likes it with less. ;-)

Bret
How do you design a cam to like a certain amount of preload? PM me if you don't want it public, or just don't tell me if its a secret. And how do you set the preload hot, just get it up to temp then take it apart and do it with the motor shut off, or run it till its up to temp and do it with the motor running?
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Denny, that's what Morel recomends, I've found on the engine dyno that less makes more power like all hyd lifters. It was worth 10hp. You set the preload in running condition (hot)

Bret

Is that you saying that or the article you referred to a few weeks ago?
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
PM me if you don't want it public
Yes... PM me as well! I'm special too!
or run it till its up to temp and do it with the motor running?
exactly
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 01:00 AM
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I never mentioned a article, it's straight out of engine dyno testing I've done.

Bret
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
How do you design a cam to like a certain amount of preload? PM me if you don't want it public, or just don't tell me if its a secret. And how do you set the preload hot, just get it up to temp then take it apart and do it with the motor shut off, or run it till its up to temp and do it with the motor running?
;-) It's a secret. If you design cams based on .030" preload then the cams will be larger, but if you do it with a minimal amount of preload then they should (and do) perform best with that preload.

Bret
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Denny, that's what Morel recomends, I've found on the engine dyno that less makes more power like all hyd lifters. It was worth 10hp. You set the preload in running condition (hot)

Bret
I've found also that normally less lash makes more power especially on the top end. Thought you had some secret on the Morels and was just following the lead.

Ten years ago installed one of Comps Xtreme cams and it worked so poorly that I called Comp with the dyno results and they sent me another cam. It also dynoed not very well either so Comp sent me a different grind. What I learned from the whole mess is (1) I didn't know the secret in how to make one work with my combo back then.......still don't. (2) Comp didn't either (3) Found as much as 20 hp on top using as little lash as possible as we spend a whole day doing nothing but changing lash setting and making dyno runs.

Only thing now regarding the Delteg and setting that side hot is to see how creative I can get as I really perfer final lash setting with the engine running. Still haven't got a clue as to how much of a turn .030 would be, but evidenty it really doesn't matter. So............never mind.

Thanks!!
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 06:10 AM
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i think .030 is 1/2 turn on 3/8" studs... might want to confirm that first...
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Denny McLain
Still haven't got a clue as to how much of a turn .030 would be, but evidenty it really doesn't matter. So............never mind.

Thanks!!
FYI - If you're using 3/8-24 studs, 1 in. divided by 24 = 0.0417 in. per thread, 0.030 in. divided by 0.0417 in. = 0.719 turns. If you're using 7/16-20 studs, it works out to 0.6 turns. Also, if you're using 3/8-24 studs, 1/8 turn works out to 0.005 in. preload.
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 09:29 AM
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Hey Denny! I’m running Morel hydraulic roller lifters, with Jesel SS shafts. When I first installed the lifters and shafts, I set the preload to 1/4 turn. After getting it fired up, and up to operating temp, I set the preload to 1/8 turn. When I go over the car next month and do my spring checkup/maintenance, I will go over the lash again. I may even try a little bit looser than my 1/8 turn. My engine builder recommends just enough lash to keep the lifters from ticking.



Nick



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