These probably won't help, but since they're temperature related and easy to check... Try replacing the coolant temp sensor in the water pump. Mine was off by just a little, but putting in a new one made a considerable difference. Disconnect the vacuum line for the EGR system right at the intake manifold & put a cap over it. I had a vacuum leak which was only "activated" once the engine warmed up and the EGR vavle was allowed to operate. I realize you have different problems on each side, so maybe these suggestions won't help... ??

 

Wow cant believe i missed this thread.

Ok start by fixing all known issues. IIRC you stated that you have a map problem. Check it with a meter and trace the black wire.

You also stated that you have removed the egr system. Check to see if there are any vac lines / intake vaccume fittings that were missed. Check the gasket on the egr valve or delete plate.

You still havent replaced the ECT sencor. Replace it and see if anything changes.

Since the engine was recently rebuilt doubble check all the intake manifold bolts for proper tq. This will rule out any vaccume leak that would be from the intake manifold.

Check the o2 sensor wires on the passenger side for bare spots where they could be grounding to anything.

You stated that you were using a diffrent IAT sensor. I believe that you said that you had a aftermarket one in the end of the k&n filter you have. How did you have it hooked up? Did you splice into the factory wiring? If so did you solder the wires or just use a crimp style butt connector or wire nut? When you switched back to the stock IAT sensor did you solder or crimp? Crimping wires or twisting them together can cause weird things. Crimp connectors can alter the ohms and send a false signal to the computer. Twisting the wires together can cause alot of rf noise in the wire and can send the computer a bad or false signal. Soldering wires is the only way to be sure that you have things correctly "fused" together. So if you have any wires on the stock harness even the o2 wires spliced using any method other than soldering then you need to go back and solder every connection you made. I would do this before i even begin to worry about anything else.

You mentioned a after market tach. How did you have the wire spliced into the factory wire that drives the icm? If you spliced it with anything other than solder then undo it and solder the wire back together. Even if you have cut the wire the ICM could be reciving a week or altered signal becuse of a bad splice. This could be a partial cause of the weak spark.

I know you saw red headers but to be positive of the rick or lean condition pull the plugs. all of them and lable each with is corrosponding cylender number. Do this to both banks. Post a pic of the plugs and make sure we can see the electrode end verry well.

Do you have anything else aftermarket spliced into the factory wiring? Msd box, aftermarket gauges, ect? If you do unplug them and once again if they were not soldered where u spliced them solder the factory wires back together.

Check the alt voltage output. Do this by using your meter and check the vlts comming straight off the charging line on the alt.

You also stated you have a slow batt drain. A bad alt can cause this. There is a diode in it that can go bad and cause the batt to drain. Unhook the alt and see if the drain goes away.

Also with the car running with no acc on check the voltage across the batt post. Should be between 13.5 and 14 volts. Then turn on all the acc. Radio, ac on high, lights, and cig lighter then check the voltage again and post what it is.

Sorry this is so long but im just trying to help.

 

any updates?

 

Tell me if my problem sound similar to yours....

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=480326

 

I'd say you need a fuel pump.

 

LilJayV10.... i'm seriously thinking your problems are opti related. Pull it out and open it up. I bet its got a good bit of corrosion in it.

 

Ok the car is in the garage. with work and having to work on everyone elses stuff I haven't had a chance to work on the camaro. I know it's hard to figure out something on it when I post once a month.

I have read back through some of the replies and I will try to catch everyone up to date on what I have done. First off the car drove fine for atleast 8 months before it started doing this.

After you drive it runs for about 15 minutes it starts missing, if you drive it harder to get more rpms the miss goes away, the miss keeps increasing in RPM's to the point that you can have your foot on the floor and the engine won't rev over 500rpms. It back fires through the exhaust. I have started it once when it ran like this cold, wouldn't run at all, thats when it threw the MAP sensor code. I have not gotten that code since. I started it again a day or so later and it started and ran fine.

I have removed the aftermarket tach
check the intake bolts. sprayed the intake while it was running with carb cleaner, couldn't find any leaks
The IAT sensor wires are crimped, I couldn't get them to take solder. There are no aftermarket boxes or gizmo's on it.
Fuel pressure is steady at 43lbs.
I have unplugged the 02's and drove it

When it warms up I loose spark and injector signal, thats pretty much what it comes down to right there.

Things I have replaced with known good parts I had, ECM, ICM, alternator and coil. None have made any difference on how the car runs.

Today when I went to start it. The battery was up, the car hasn't been started in over two weeks. Why it didn't drain down I don't know. The fuel guage was at 1/2 tank, the gauge then moved up over the full mark to almost the 3 o clock posistion. When ever I backed the car up it went back down to 1/2 tank. Electric gremlins.

 

my car was doing the exact same thing to me, i posted under missing chugging lt4 in this section, i found my problem to be a leaking header on the drivers side,
it's like it was sucking air into the exhuast and leaning out the cylinders on that bank, the weird thing was is that i could not hear a exhaust leak until it started running really bad, i put new header and collector gaskets on it and some new plugs and wires since i was there and the car runs great

doug

 

it's in the air right now, going to look at the opti. soon as i get the damn blancer hub off. what was wrong with a one piece balancer. geez.

 

I got the opti off, one of the small screws that holds the rotor on is off and the other one is half off. I took the white cover off and there's black spots on it. There is oil residue on the opti eye or whatever you call it, and the wheel is bent, you can see how it goes up and down as you spin it. Can any of these things cause the problems I am having.

 

Umm...definitely. I think you may have found your problem.

 

It's fixed holy crap it's fixed. I guess it was the opti. I drove it for over an hour tonight and it's great. I replaced it with a good one today. Amazing. I appreciate everyones input. I hope that no other problems come about. Maybe this thread will help someone else out.