Mindgame, come on, tell us more about your car!
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,985
From: In a house by the bay
Man, I opened a can of worms with this one!
This is going to be long but there's a lot being said here. If I miss anything, slap me.
Bret,
Good point on the 4-bolt parallel setup. I think its the best way to go on these factory blocks. Just don't have the beef on the thrust sides like the aftermarket blocks so pulling with a splayed bolt doesn't help things IMO. FWIW, this was a GM service block and according to my paperwork on the car, the original owner spun a bearing at just ~11k miles. Neither here nor there... just saved me a little $ at the machine shop.
You're right on the Manley rods. They are extremely durable and not light at all. Reher Morrison uses these rods in their super series big-block builds (800-1100hp 7000rpm +) along with a few other guys' "sportsman" crate builds. So when you consider a rod being used in track-only builds by recognized builders, that does instill a bit of confidence. Did I mention that I came across a deal when I purchased these?
My original plan was to use a Howards rod but this came along for $439.99 so the rest is history. That and my plan to keep everything ~7000rpm with a lightweight piston had me giving these the nod.
The wristpins are C&A tool steel, lightweight and taper wall. Weight falls right in between a light and medium weight straight wall. I have used these in a few bracket builds that were 7500rpm+ engines without problems so they were a natural choice for this one.
The HTC crank is new. It has HTC's own balancing (puts the weight closer to center of the crank), knife edging (profiling) and lightening. This one came in at right about 50 lbs. Nice cranks for the money and Hank builds a nice "budget" crank for those guys wanting to build strong 383's too.
Remember when I mentioned that I had changed a few parts along the way? Well the Mantons were one of those parts. Since I was ordering a few parts from Isky, I went with their pushrods. Manton would need some time to get me a custom length and I just put it off. Once I got everything together, something just told me to go ahead and order, then make the swap when they got here. So that's where the Mantons entered the mix. So being indecisive, cost will cost ya a few extra bucks.... I am notorious for this kinda thing though.
All the parts aside, you're right, the engine is very efficient. If you take a look at the burn pattern in the cylinders (I use a flexible lighted borescope which I find to be a valuable diagnostic tool) it's about as good as you could hope for. I've mentioned this before, but it gets lost in the mix.... FWIW, The best engines I've seen, besides the fact that they have great flowing heads, have very good burning combustion chambers. That's not only an attribute of the combustion chamber but the port and seat work as well. The sb2.2's I had ported by Don Losito.. same story, very good burn. That particular engine made more power than it was "suppose" to for its size and considering a single carburetor (which the sb2.2 is really made for). Same thing can be seen in the really exceptional motors you run across from time to time. Once you get past all the flow number stuff you come to realize (well at least some do) that a great cylinder head isn't just about airflow. It's important but it takes two to tango.... air and fuel. How those interact is a big part of it... port area consistency etc....
I can't count the number of guys who've had their heads ported to big numbers, had hopes of big numbers and come dyno day found that they didn't make the power. Granted, it could be a problem elsewhere, like the valvetrain or any number of things. But when that's the only variable you've changed in your setup...... they're left scratching their head as to why?
Needless to say, this is a bigger deal where wet manifolds are used, but it's worth noting nonetheless. I know one guy in particular who took a Chapman cnc ported 18º head and "opened it up" because it was not flowing the air alot of the other guys were getting. Nothing excessive cause I saw the port before and after the surgery. That engine gained ~20 cfm and lost about 10hp (avg.) and some 12 lbs-ft (avg.) of torque. This was a racing engine by the way and take note that I said "avg". We're not talking peak here folks...... this set of heads had basically been ruined for this combination cause the real hits occured at an rpm just above each shift point.
For that reason alone, I dared not even scratch the ports on my heads when I got them back from PRED. Which by the way, was better than 3-months. So I'd say to Ken, yeah, Chuck is a busy guy but he made that very clear to me. Then again, we had an agreement and I was happy to wait.
An engine is more than the sum of it's parts.
Which brings me to brain's question.... why does the engine make so much power?
I always look at buildups and try to see what's going on. Sometimes it's obvious..... a big cam, lots of rpm, good heads, big power but not streetable. That's the typical high rpm build. Then there are those that you just can't figure out by looking at a parts list. I keep going back to the Engine Masters build competition (small blocks in specific). Joe Sherman's entry made better than 600 hp and 530 lbs-ft of torque using an AFR 215 head which is basically a RR 23º race head for circle trackers. Engine was a ~360 ci build and max rpm was 6500. Cam was in the 235 @ .050 range with less than .600" of lift and a 108 lsa. So where's the magic?
Sure, there are coatings and a plethora of little things here and there but there is no magic bullet in this example.
I can name more people than I have fingers, who have heads that flow what Joe's did, cams bigger than his, more cubic inches..... but they ain't making the power he did!
Point is, it's no real stretch to see that by using a better cylinder head and some 30 extra cubic inches, that you could make the power we got from this engine. The devil is in the details. An engine is more than the sum of its parts cause it's all about the combination and with the help of some really sharp guys this combination was planned to work out. When I talked to Chuck about what I wanted, he told me "650hp is easy, it will do that and not break a sweat" and due to his confidence, I let that be the end of it. Come dyno day we were sitting with right at 650 hp and a few more to be found later.... call it luck if you want but the guy knows his work.
The nice thing to know about your buddy's car is..... there's more power in there somewhere, the real trick is finding it. You mention the intake holding it back and that may be the case. All said and done you guys should see 650 hp (flywheel). He'll probably need to turn 6500 rpm to see it though. And I wouldn't be surprised if the heads are not fully up to par. Flow them and see what you get. Guessing is no good cause it just keeps you wandering where the power went. A motor of this size can use alot of head though.
And yes, the car is loud but I have yet to meet a high compression 650hp NA motor that wasn't.
The best you can do is insulate the sound so that it only irritates your neighbors. Dynamat and similar sound deadening products are a good idea on a street car, even if they add a little weight. That and keeping the exhaust pointed out back helps alot. I couldn't imagine this car with turndowns like alot of these guys are running.
Star,
Chuck owns Progressive Race Engine Development. I set up a secure network for PRED here a year ago so I got to see alot of what goes on down there... much of which I can't talk about. From what I can say, most of the work there is one-off type prototypes for outfits like Dyson Racing. It's a research and development type company. Not a tuner, parts wharehouse type of deal. I'm sure that the right $ will get you anything you could want though. It was my understanding that Chuck was planning a move to a larger facility but I haven't had any luck contacting him by phone as of late. May want to try his e-mail address criddeck@hotmail.com
I'd like to see Chuck enter a EMC contest myself but I have no idea if he's even interested. Having owned a business myself, I can say that it's probably more a matter of lack-of-time than anything else. Time and Money are always a balancing act for people who like to stay involved with their business.
David,
I don't know if they were flowed together or not. I do know that one was developed to compliment the other so I'd imagine that they were but no flow numbers to support that.
I'm using a Griffen 2-row radiator, meziere h2o pump and BASF coolant (recommended by Chuck next to the Evans coolant). Same coolant Mercedes uses in their engines.. I don't remember the exact specification though, I can find out if you're interested.
The driveshaft is a Mark Williams 3" 4130 chrome-moly. I have used the same driveshaft on cars making 50% more power than this one and launching with deeper gears on larger slicks. Never have had one break on me. Tough as nails and the price is reasonable!
95bird,
Your car is equally impressive for the funds you have tied up in it. No lack of respect on my part for that. And it sounds like its due for some quickening! 
Through all of this, I guess you can see my philosophy on building a fast car. I don't need no billet stuff, just give me air and enough lungs to breath upstairs.
-Mindgame
This is going to be long but there's a lot being said here. If I miss anything, slap me.
Bret,
Good point on the 4-bolt parallel setup. I think its the best way to go on these factory blocks. Just don't have the beef on the thrust sides like the aftermarket blocks so pulling with a splayed bolt doesn't help things IMO. FWIW, this was a GM service block and according to my paperwork on the car, the original owner spun a bearing at just ~11k miles. Neither here nor there... just saved me a little $ at the machine shop.
You're right on the Manley rods. They are extremely durable and not light at all. Reher Morrison uses these rods in their super series big-block builds (800-1100hp 7000rpm +) along with a few other guys' "sportsman" crate builds. So when you consider a rod being used in track-only builds by recognized builders, that does instill a bit of confidence. Did I mention that I came across a deal when I purchased these?
My original plan was to use a Howards rod but this came along for $439.99 so the rest is history. That and my plan to keep everything ~7000rpm with a lightweight piston had me giving these the nod. The wristpins are C&A tool steel, lightweight and taper wall. Weight falls right in between a light and medium weight straight wall. I have used these in a few bracket builds that were 7500rpm+ engines without problems so they were a natural choice for this one.
The HTC crank is new. It has HTC's own balancing (puts the weight closer to center of the crank), knife edging (profiling) and lightening. This one came in at right about 50 lbs. Nice cranks for the money and Hank builds a nice "budget" crank for those guys wanting to build strong 383's too.
Remember when I mentioned that I had changed a few parts along the way? Well the Mantons were one of those parts. Since I was ordering a few parts from Isky, I went with their pushrods. Manton would need some time to get me a custom length and I just put it off. Once I got everything together, something just told me to go ahead and order, then make the swap when they got here. So that's where the Mantons entered the mix. So being indecisive, cost will cost ya a few extra bucks.... I am notorious for this kinda thing though.
All the parts aside, you're right, the engine is very efficient. If you take a look at the burn pattern in the cylinders (I use a flexible lighted borescope which I find to be a valuable diagnostic tool) it's about as good as you could hope for. I've mentioned this before, but it gets lost in the mix.... FWIW, The best engines I've seen, besides the fact that they have great flowing heads, have very good burning combustion chambers. That's not only an attribute of the combustion chamber but the port and seat work as well. The sb2.2's I had ported by Don Losito.. same story, very good burn. That particular engine made more power than it was "suppose" to for its size and considering a single carburetor (which the sb2.2 is really made for). Same thing can be seen in the really exceptional motors you run across from time to time. Once you get past all the flow number stuff you come to realize (well at least some do) that a great cylinder head isn't just about airflow. It's important but it takes two to tango.... air and fuel. How those interact is a big part of it... port area consistency etc....
I can't count the number of guys who've had their heads ported to big numbers, had hopes of big numbers and come dyno day found that they didn't make the power. Granted, it could be a problem elsewhere, like the valvetrain or any number of things. But when that's the only variable you've changed in your setup...... they're left scratching their head as to why?
Needless to say, this is a bigger deal where wet manifolds are used, but it's worth noting nonetheless. I know one guy in particular who took a Chapman cnc ported 18º head and "opened it up" because it was not flowing the air alot of the other guys were getting. Nothing excessive cause I saw the port before and after the surgery. That engine gained ~20 cfm and lost about 10hp (avg.) and some 12 lbs-ft (avg.) of torque. This was a racing engine by the way and take note that I said "avg". We're not talking peak here folks...... this set of heads had basically been ruined for this combination cause the real hits occured at an rpm just above each shift point.
For that reason alone, I dared not even scratch the ports on my heads when I got them back from PRED. Which by the way, was better than 3-months. So I'd say to Ken, yeah, Chuck is a busy guy but he made that very clear to me. Then again, we had an agreement and I was happy to wait.
An engine is more than the sum of it's parts.
Which brings me to brain's question.... why does the engine make so much power?
I always look at buildups and try to see what's going on. Sometimes it's obvious..... a big cam, lots of rpm, good heads, big power but not streetable. That's the typical high rpm build. Then there are those that you just can't figure out by looking at a parts list. I keep going back to the Engine Masters build competition (small blocks in specific). Joe Sherman's entry made better than 600 hp and 530 lbs-ft of torque using an AFR 215 head which is basically a RR 23º race head for circle trackers. Engine was a ~360 ci build and max rpm was 6500. Cam was in the 235 @ .050 range with less than .600" of lift and a 108 lsa. So where's the magic?
Sure, there are coatings and a plethora of little things here and there but there is no magic bullet in this example.
I can name more people than I have fingers, who have heads that flow what Joe's did, cams bigger than his, more cubic inches..... but they ain't making the power he did!
Point is, it's no real stretch to see that by using a better cylinder head and some 30 extra cubic inches, that you could make the power we got from this engine. The devil is in the details. An engine is more than the sum of its parts cause it's all about the combination and with the help of some really sharp guys this combination was planned to work out. When I talked to Chuck about what I wanted, he told me "650hp is easy, it will do that and not break a sweat" and due to his confidence, I let that be the end of it. Come dyno day we were sitting with right at 650 hp and a few more to be found later.... call it luck if you want but the guy knows his work.
The nice thing to know about your buddy's car is..... there's more power in there somewhere, the real trick is finding it. You mention the intake holding it back and that may be the case. All said and done you guys should see 650 hp (flywheel). He'll probably need to turn 6500 rpm to see it though. And I wouldn't be surprised if the heads are not fully up to par. Flow them and see what you get. Guessing is no good cause it just keeps you wandering where the power went. A motor of this size can use alot of head though.
And yes, the car is loud but I have yet to meet a high compression 650hp NA motor that wasn't.
The best you can do is insulate the sound so that it only irritates your neighbors.
Dynamat and similar sound deadening products are a good idea on a street car, even if they add a little weight. That and keeping the exhaust pointed out back helps alot. I couldn't imagine this car with turndowns like alot of these guys are running. Star,
Chuck owns Progressive Race Engine Development. I set up a secure network for PRED here a year ago so I got to see alot of what goes on down there... much of which I can't talk about. From what I can say, most of the work there is one-off type prototypes for outfits like Dyson Racing. It's a research and development type company. Not a tuner, parts wharehouse type of deal. I'm sure that the right $ will get you anything you could want though. It was my understanding that Chuck was planning a move to a larger facility but I haven't had any luck contacting him by phone as of late. May want to try his e-mail address criddeck@hotmail.com
I'd like to see Chuck enter a EMC contest myself but I have no idea if he's even interested. Having owned a business myself, I can say that it's probably more a matter of lack-of-time than anything else. Time and Money are always a balancing act for people who like to stay involved with their business.
David,
I don't know if they were flowed together or not. I do know that one was developed to compliment the other so I'd imagine that they were but no flow numbers to support that.
I'm using a Griffen 2-row radiator, meziere h2o pump and BASF coolant (recommended by Chuck next to the Evans coolant). Same coolant Mercedes uses in their engines.. I don't remember the exact specification though, I can find out if you're interested.
The driveshaft is a Mark Williams 3" 4130 chrome-moly. I have used the same driveshaft on cars making 50% more power than this one and launching with deeper gears on larger slicks. Never have had one break on me. Tough as nails and the price is reasonable!
95bird,
Your car is equally impressive for the funds you have tied up in it. No lack of respect on my part for that. And it sounds like its due for some quickening!
Through all of this, I guess you can see my philosophy on building a fast car. I don't need no billet stuff, just give me air and enough lungs to breath upstairs.
-Mindgame
Banned
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Originally posted by Mindgame
Bret,
Good point on the 4-bolt parallel setup. I think its the best way to go on these factory blocks. Just don't have the beef on the thrust sides like the aftermarket blocks so pulling with a splayed bolt doesn't help things IMO. FWIW, this was a GM service block and according to my paperwork on the car, the original owner spun a bearing at just ~11k miles. Neither here nor there... just saved me a little $ at the machine shop.
Bret,
Good point on the 4-bolt parallel setup. I think its the best way to go on these factory blocks. Just don't have the beef on the thrust sides like the aftermarket blocks so pulling with a splayed bolt doesn't help things IMO. FWIW, this was a GM service block and according to my paperwork on the car, the original owner spun a bearing at just ~11k miles. Neither here nor there... just saved me a little $ at the machine shop.
Originally posted by Mindgame
You're right on the Manley rods. They are extremely durable and not light at all. Reher Morrison uses these rods in their super series big-block builds (800-1100hp 7000rpm +) along with a few other guys' "sportsman" crate builds. So when you consider a rod being used in track-only builds by recognized builders, that does instill a bit of confidence. Did I mention that I came across a deal when I purchased these? My original plan was to use a Howards rod but this came along for $439.99 so the rest is history. That and my plan to keep everything ~7000rpm with a lightweight piston had me giving these the nod.
You're right on the Manley rods. They are extremely durable and not light at all. Reher Morrison uses these rods in their super series big-block builds (800-1100hp 7000rpm +) along with a few other guys' "sportsman" crate builds. So when you consider a rod being used in track-only builds by recognized builders, that does instill a bit of confidence. Did I mention that I came across a deal when I purchased these?
My original plan was to use a Howards rod but this came along for $439.99 so the rest is history. That and my plan to keep everything ~7000rpm with a lightweight piston had me giving these the nod.
Originally posted by Mindgame
The HTC crank is new. It has HTC's own balancing (puts the weight closer to center of the crank), knife edging (profiling) and lightening. This one came in at right about 50 lbs. Nice cranks for the money and Hank builds a nice "budget" crank for those guys wanting to build strong 383's too.
The HTC crank is new. It has HTC's own balancing (puts the weight closer to center of the crank), knife edging (profiling) and lightening. This one came in at right about 50 lbs. Nice cranks for the money and Hank builds a nice "budget" crank for those guys wanting to build strong 383's too.
Originally posted by Mindgame
Remember when I mentioned that I had changed a few parts along the way? Well the Mantons were one of those parts.
Remember when I mentioned that I had changed a few parts along the way? Well the Mantons were one of those parts.
Originally posted by Mindgame
All the parts aside, you're right, the engine is very efficient. If you take a look at the burn pattern in the cylinders (I use a flexible lighted borescope which I find to be a valuable diagnostic tool) it's about as good as you could hope for. I've mentioned this before, but it gets lost in the mix.... FWIW, The best engines I've seen, besides the fact that they have great flowing heads, have very good burning combustion chambers. That's not only an attribute of the combustion chamber but the port and seat work as well.
All the parts aside, you're right, the engine is very efficient. If you take a look at the burn pattern in the cylinders (I use a flexible lighted borescope which I find to be a valuable diagnostic tool) it's about as good as you could hope for. I've mentioned this before, but it gets lost in the mix.... FWIW, The best engines I've seen, besides the fact that they have great flowing heads, have very good burning combustion chambers. That's not only an attribute of the combustion chamber but the port and seat work as well.
Originally posted by Mindgame
Needless to say, this is a bigger deal where wet manifolds are used, but it's worth noting nonetheless. I know one guy in particular who took a Chapman cnc ported 18º head and "opened it up" because it was not flowing the air alot of the other guys were getting. Nothing excessive cause I saw the port before and after the surgery. That engine gained ~20 cfm and lost about 10hp (avg.) and some 12 lbs-ft (avg.) of torque. This was a racing engine by the way and take note that I said "avg". We're not talking peak here folks...... this set of heads had basically been ruined for this combination cause the real hits occured at an rpm just above each shift point.
For that reason alone, I dared not even scratch the ports on my heads when I got them back from PRED. Which by the way, was better than 3-months. So I'd say to Ken, yeah, Chuck is a busy guy but he made that very clear to me. Then again, we had an agreement and I was happy to wait.
Needless to say, this is a bigger deal where wet manifolds are used, but it's worth noting nonetheless. I know one guy in particular who took a Chapman cnc ported 18º head and "opened it up" because it was not flowing the air alot of the other guys were getting. Nothing excessive cause I saw the port before and after the surgery. That engine gained ~20 cfm and lost about 10hp (avg.) and some 12 lbs-ft (avg.) of torque. This was a racing engine by the way and take note that I said "avg". We're not talking peak here folks...... this set of heads had basically been ruined for this combination cause the real hits occured at an rpm just above each shift point.
For that reason alone, I dared not even scratch the ports on my heads when I got them back from PRED. Which by the way, was better than 3-months. So I'd say to Ken, yeah, Chuck is a busy guy but he made that very clear to me. Then again, we had an agreement and I was happy to wait.
Originally posted by Mindgame
The sb2.2's I had ported by Don Losito.. same story, very good burn. That particular engine made more power than it was "suppose" to for its size and considering a single carburetor (which the sb2.2 is really made for). Same thing can be seen in the really exceptional motors you run across from time to time. Once you get past all the flow number stuff you come to realize (well at least some do) that a great cylinder head isn't just about airflow. It's important but it takes two to tango.... air and fuel. How those interact is a big part of it... port area consistency etc....
The sb2.2's I had ported by Don Losito.. same story, very good burn. That particular engine made more power than it was "suppose" to for its size and considering a single carburetor (which the sb2.2 is really made for). Same thing can be seen in the really exceptional motors you run across from time to time. Once you get past all the flow number stuff you come to realize (well at least some do) that a great cylinder head isn't just about airflow. It's important but it takes two to tango.... air and fuel. How those interact is a big part of it... port area consistency etc....
The SB2.2's are truely a carb style head, if you want to run a tunnel ram or a EFI type setup then a splayed valve is probably a better way to go due to the port layout.
Originally posted by Mindgame
I always look at buildups and try to see what's going on. Sometimes it's obvious..... a big cam, lots of rpm, good heads, big power but not streetable. That's the typical high rpm build. Then there are those that you just can't figure out by looking at a parts list. I keep going back to the Engine Masters build competition (small blocks in specific). Joe Sherman's entry made better than 600 hp and 530 lbs-ft of torque using an AFR 215 head which is basically a RR 23º race head for circle trackers. Engine was a ~360 ci build and max rpm was 6500. Cam was in the 235 @ .050 range with less than .600" of lift and a 108 lsa. So where's the magic?
Sure, there are coatings and a plethora of little things here and there but there is no magic bullet in this example.
I can name more people than I have fingers, who have heads that flow what Joe's did, cams bigger than his, more cubic inches..... but they ain't making the power he did!
I always look at buildups and try to see what's going on. Sometimes it's obvious..... a big cam, lots of rpm, good heads, big power but not streetable. That's the typical high rpm build. Then there are those that you just can't figure out by looking at a parts list. I keep going back to the Engine Masters build competition (small blocks in specific). Joe Sherman's entry made better than 600 hp and 530 lbs-ft of torque using an AFR 215 head which is basically a RR 23º race head for circle trackers. Engine was a ~360 ci build and max rpm was 6500. Cam was in the 235 @ .050 range with less than .600" of lift and a 108 lsa. So where's the magic?
Sure, there are coatings and a plethora of little things here and there but there is no magic bullet in this example.
I can name more people than I have fingers, who have heads that flow what Joe's did, cams bigger than his, more cubic inches..... but they ain't making the power he did!
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...3/0405phr_emc/
That's another good read IMHO.
Bret
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 586
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Originally posted by Mindgame
Once you get past all the flow number stuff you come to realize (well at least some do) that a great cylinder head isn't just about airflow. It's important but it takes two to tango.... air and fuel. How those interact is a big part of it... port area consistency etc....
I can't count the number of guys who've had their heads ported to big numbers, had hopes of big numbers and come dyno day found that they didn't make the power. Granted, it could be a problem elsewhere, like the valvetrain or any number of things. But when that's the only variable you've changed in your setup...... they're left scratching their head as to why?
-Mindgame
Once you get past all the flow number stuff you come to realize (well at least some do) that a great cylinder head isn't just about airflow. It's important but it takes two to tango.... air and fuel. How those interact is a big part of it... port area consistency etc....
I can't count the number of guys who've had their heads ported to big numbers, had hopes of big numbers and come dyno day found that they didn't make the power. Granted, it could be a problem elsewhere, like the valvetrain or any number of things. But when that's the only variable you've changed in your setup...... they're left scratching their head as to why?
-Mindgame
That sounds like my current setup 
Registered User
Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 3,051
From: Rochester, NY USA
Mindgame's motor is probably THE most impressive LTx motor I have ever heard of....blown, NA, or nitrous. I really like when people do different things. I also have a ton of respect for Tim's (95bird) setup. His 355 was trapping the same mph as my solid roller 396 with AFRs a couple years ago 
I too was a victim of a "big flow" number car that didnt perform worth trash a few years ago.
Mindgame's heads are more impressive than my new ones, primarily because they flow the same cfm with less volume. My ProAction's are quite large, which is one reason why I decided to go with 410ci for this new motor. I think they will perform pretty well, but these heads on a 355 size motor would need 8000rpms.
My goal is in the same ballpark as to what Mindgame is running now. A high 9 would be nice, but I just want some killer mph (like 138-140mph NA).
I love how there are a few hardcore NA guys pushing the power levels higher and higher with the LTx motors.
Jason
I too was a victim of a "big flow" number car that didnt perform worth trash a few years ago.
Mindgame's heads are more impressive than my new ones, primarily because they flow the same cfm with less volume. My ProAction's are quite large, which is one reason why I decided to go with 410ci for this new motor. I think they will perform pretty well, but these heads on a 355 size motor would need 8000rpms.
My goal is in the same ballpark as to what Mindgame is running now. A high 9 would be nice, but I just want some killer mph (like 138-140mph NA).
I love how there are a few hardcore NA guys pushing the power levels higher and higher with the LTx motors.
Jason
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,542
From: Long Island, NY ; Norfolk, VA
I'm very impressed w/ the number's some of these guy's are getting out of their setup's.. I'm at that crossroad now for my 396 on what top end to put on it.. This is some good reading..
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,985
From: In a house by the bay
Well, I talked to quite a few guys and took alot of info from my porter. He said I was best off just staying with the 383... I didn't really ask for reasons why he felt this way. We were confident that the power would be made so it really wasn't that big an issue for me.
The rod length is 6"... makes for a shorter, lighter piston. I didn't necessarily choose them for less cylinder wear or anything like that, just reducing piston weight.
-Mindgame
The rod length is 6"... makes for a shorter, lighter piston. I didn't necessarily choose them for less cylinder wear or anything like that, just reducing piston weight.
-Mindgame
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,942
From: kitchener/Ontario
Re: Mindgame, come on, tell us more about your car!
Mindgame,
Do you have any pic's of your exhaust, You have a x pipe with 3in back to over the axle then down to 2 1/2...what mufflers..and what kind of TQ arm are you running and how did you get it to fit with the duals...
thx
Do you have any pic's of your exhaust, You have a x pipe with 3in back to over the axle then down to 2 1/2...what mufflers..and what kind of TQ arm are you running and how did you get it to fit with the duals...
thx
West South Central Moderator
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,371
From: Kilgore TX 75662
Re: Mindgame, come on, tell us more about your car!
I'm still hoping to see a picture of the engine. Preferably of the adapter plates used for the intake manifold to head surface.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,462
From: smog zone adjacent to a great lake
Re: Mindgame, come on, tell us more about your car!
A 1" spacer is a 1" spacer. It will difficult to see much more, on an assembled engine.
Last edited by arnie; Sep 14, 2004 at 09:17 PM.
Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 537
From: sierra vista, Arizona
Re: Mindgame, come on, tell us more about your car!
reading this post makes me feel like a total idiot....just about everything that was said was completely over my head. and also all the names of the diffrent engine builders and parts builders mentioned here i have never even heard of. how did all of you people come across all of this knowledge. did you just happen to be in the right place at the right time. or from reading some magical book or something. i know that i cant be the only one that feels that way.