Schurters LT1

Been doing alot read on here on parts and i think i have it fig out...

Goals frist....

rpm limit 7000rpm
it will be under 600hp FW
DD car
low 11's N/A @ 120mph in there some where...M6 car...

Parts...

Scat 9000 cart...
Scat I Beam 4340 rods with upgread rod bolts
Pistions???? can you run 12-1 on pump gas
bearings????
rings????

2bolt or 4bolt????

oil pump HV here do you get this pump...
what should i deck the block too

Heads right now are LT1 done by Ai...may go to an 210/220
cam right now 847..thinking real hard about going to a Street SR cam...

If there is anthing that i am missing here please fill it in

Thx for your time, everyone

Schurters LT1

bump

FASTFATBOY

I would run a flat top piston

Clevite "H" bearings

Total seal gapless rings

2 bolt will do fine

Stock oil pump

"0" deck the block

Gonna be hard to get close to the 600 fwhp mark without a custom grind solid roller.

Also gonna be hard to run 12 to 1 on pump gas, unless you get the dynamic comp ratio down, that= big cam

You are gonna need all the bolt ons, good exhaust, very well ported intake, 36lb injectors, heads that flow AT LEAST 270 CFM,
custom tune or a FAST system, Dennys driveshaft, 12 bolt, good clutch and a bunch of suspension to go low 11's(11 teens to me) with a M6 355 cube LT1. Just my .02

Hope that helps


David

95Bird

don't know if this will help but you can see my setup at www.geocities.com/herrint

I run it on pump gas also but like david said..the cam makes the difference in that area.

I was running low 11s on an unported lt1 intake..just gasket matched so things flowed smooth. We aren't sure what my heads flow..will find out here shortly but would be shocked if they went over 250cfm.

I have to say my car has been more the exception...not the standard. Ive tweeked, tuned, changed, broken everything around the motor to get where I am. It was that last couple .10s that were hard. I think this current setup would run 10.7s in great air at 126-127 but we will never know since things are changing. What I'm trying to say is that this will more than likely not be a throw it together and go run low 11s first time out. My first full motor pass with no issues was 11.8s. Good luck in reaching your goal.

WS6T3RROR

he might leave the pistons down in the hole a couple thou and run the impy head gaskets or those thin mr gasket ones (.026 i think) but amen to everything else you said FASTFATBOY. only thing i might add to that is be sure you have a GREAT machine shop even if it costs a little extra quality machine work is a big deal on keeping a high rpm motor together for a long time.

SStrokerAce

With Very Good LT1 castings this should not be a problem.

Stock Crank
Scat 4340 7/16 I Beam Rods
A lightweight flat top piston


That's where I would start

Bret

STAR

If your going to spring for a Scat crank why not get the 3.75 stroke and make it a 383ci stroker? The added torque will make it fun on the street and you could run a bigger cam. I would suggest keeping the piston in the hole and shooting for a .35-.40 quench height. This will help you battle any detonation and you could run a bit more compression. To optimize your combo and try to reach your goal have Phil custom spec your cam, forget about off the shelf stuff. To really extract all the available power you'll need a really good dyno tune for sure.

Good Luck!

Mindgame

You need even better heads to make the power with the 383. It's doable... and has been done but most guys just end up chasing their tails with a mediocre cylinder head.

You mention ET, so just keep in mind that setup is where it's at. There are a number of guys on this board who have run low 12's with bolt-on cars cutting very low 60' times, so the setup is as important as the HP.... but isn't it always.

You're on the right track.

If you use the Scat I's, make sure you take some extra time and polish the beams. I like these rods and have run them in a number of track-only cars but I don't just stick them in without doing some work on em'.

A lightweight flattop is good. Lots of good brands out there to choose from.

I'm not a big fan of gapless rings, although the new TS top ring looks nice I still don't know enough guys running them to justify the plunge. That's me though... I like to watch the "new in thing" marinade for a while before I jump on the bandwagon.

I'd use Speed Pro plasma moly. They don't get T-Seal's leakdown numbers but they seal the cylinder when it counts.

Look in Advanceed Tech for threads on "dynamic compression". Need to understand DC before you start picking a static compression. And leave yourself a bit of a cushion there for hot weather, etc.. Need a good cooling system too!

Custom cam is a must, along with the right valvetrain parts.

Good luck.

-Mindgame

Schurters LT1

Well my heads do flow 270ish
intake to match
Will get a custom cam i am thinking of street SR

Also gonna be hard to run 12 to 1 on pump gas, unless you get the dynamic comp ratio down, that= big cam

How much CR can you run on the street, or with pump gas or is this somthing you need to do when you pick the cam....

What kind of pistion....

Total seal gapless rings???i have read these are not good rings

Dave88LX

SRP makes a great forged piston.

Figure out who is going to do your engine and pick your cam/valvetrain parts for you. Talk to them about what they reccomend for a static CR. FWIW I'm going to be around ~11.3:1 in my 383, and I've seen even higher.

I CAN NOT stress enough that machine work, you get what you pay for, for the most part. Take it somewhere reputable. I just learned a hard lesson and have to pay to have it done again.

It sounds like you're building the car with almost the exact same setup as me, down to the goals, crank, and rods

I've been told though that the rod bolts in the Scat capscrew rods are just fine.

Mindgame

That's just me Schurter... I didn't have any luck with the TS rings when I used them and other guys I know have had issues as well. Most even resorted to machining annunciator grooves in the piston between the 1st and 2nd ring-land to keep the top ring seated.
Now David likes them and I'm sure his old man has had good results with them. Everyone has issues one way or the other. I just choose not to use them at this time... but my mind is always open.

Don't think you necessarily need a solid for low 11's but it would be a good idea.

The DCR should be at or below 9.0:1. Maybe 8.8:1 as a cushion. Mine is right at 9.0:1 FWIW, but the cooling system is up to snuff.

Pistons.....
Figure it into the budget. Probe and Diamond make a nice affordable flat-top. Even less expensive and plenty capable is the KB hypereutectic. If you want to spend a little more... BME, CP and Ross are nice pistons.

-Mindgame

Dave88LX

Don't like SRP/JE I take it eh?

hehe

www.adperformance.com can get you some goodprices, he's always done me right. (Not sure if I can reccomend non-advertisers, but eh)

Schurters LT1

i am thinking a street SR becauce i am thinking into the furture...with my set up....HR cam could very well do this but ....

Still doing reading on CR....

Pistions....May go forged....SRP

What about bearing....

Is there any place out there that has a kit i can buy????

Dave88LX

No real bearing "kit" per se, just get the rod, main, and cam bearings that you want. Kings Alecular, Federal Mogul, Clevite 77, and Durabond are pretty much your options.

I went with Kings.

96speed

Hey MG, Why is this so?

Ryan