Hey fellas,

I installed a Meziere w.p. on my '97 a few months ago and rather than using the confusing relay suggestions I found here by searching past threads, I decided to wire the positive directly to that covered positive junction on the passenger side wheelwell, and wired the ground by the ground already located by the driver's side of the radiator on the core support. I also incorporated a switch inside to turn the pump on manually. This method also allows me to turn the pump on while the car is off to help cool down between runs at the strip.

Unfortunately, in the day to day hustle and bustle I've already forgotten to turn on the switch 3 times, leading to the temp. gauge maxing out and almost overheating to boilover. The last thing I need is for something more serious to happen as a result of the overheating. How can I incorporate this current wiring set-up so that I can turn the pump on manually when the car is off, but also have the pump come on as soon as I turn the car on? Kinda like how my SpeedSpecialties manual fan switch can turn the fans on when the car is off, but the fans function normally when the car is on without having to turn them on manually.

Thanx for any suggestions.

 

http://lt1info.com/TECH/Temp/2ledmez.jpg

 

What I did, was wire it through the unused Airpump relay and put a keyed power to the actuation side with a 3 position switch so I could either shut it off or leave it on with the key, or turn it on with the key off If I so choosed (fused non-keyed power). Of course the warning lamp is wired in circuit as shown in the previous schematic.

 

Perry, not sure we have met (COFBA forum, or Thunder Valley), but I'm also from Oklahoma (Moore). I'm rebuilding my engine (new LT stroker), spun a rod bearing a few months back and have a Meziere WP for the new engine. The unused air pump relay was a great idea you used for the Meziere WP. Spectro Wiring (Pole Road Moore) sells a fuse circuit tap (neat device) that I'm using to pick-up the iginition-on for my water pump relay. Then, in addition to the ignition-on with the realy, I'm adding a toggle switch under the hood to run the pump between rounds in the pits. First and foremost, I believe the Meziere, or any electric WP should be wired to run with ignition-on (always), then you can't forget to turn it on!

Warren

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2189634

 

Hey Warren what's up?
I'm putting my CSR on this weekend and will be using the AIR circuit for mine...I'm also put a new opti, coil, wires, and plugs in.

 

Jason, Good to hear from you and it looks like you’ve got some neat upgrades going on with your Z28. The electric WP should free-up about 10 HP, just make sure it keeps running and cooling the engine. The plug wires are difficult on the LT1, it took me about 6 hours to install my new wires (MSD 8 mm) in the same OEM wire paths. You will need to remove the timing chain and cover to remove the WP drive shaft. I've got a neat way to plug the shaft hole in the cover (1/2" NPT tap and hex socket plug). PM, or call me if you need assistance on this.

Also, it looks like us Oklahomans have hijacked this thread.

My new 396 stroker LT short-block is finished and shipped. However, I’m closing on my new house and acreage next week and will be starting to move over the next several days (maybe weeks to finish), so I won’t able to get started on the engine swap too soon. Although the good news is, my new place also has a 30 x 40 shop (metal building). One of the main reasons I’m buying this place (also new 2100 ft house w/ 3 car garage). So, once I get to work on the Z28, I’ll have a really nice place to work. As-well-as all my future car projects. Maybe the shop will become “LT1 Central” for our area, as I really like the LTs and plan to stay with the LTs for my project cars. You’ll have to stop by once I get moved-in (in Moore, South off Eastern).

Shawn probably already told you, but he went 11.52 the last time out. Let me know how everything goes with the WP, Opti and plug wires.

Warren

 

I just got done wiring the pump relay to the output of the fuel pump relay so it runs any time the FP is on. That way it doesn't run all the time when I'm programming the car. I had it hooked into the ignition line before and that was good, but I would pull the fuse to disable it while programming, but then a bunch of times I forgot to put it back in until I saw the temp go up (not good). Previous to that, I had only a switch to make it run and sometimes I left that off too or turned it off by mistake (also not good)

So, I think the best way is to have it go on automatically, and also have an aux switch to make it run whenever you want - pits or bleeding the radiator or whatever. So next, I will add a circuit to manually turn on the WP relay - I might just run an ign line to the WP relay output directly through a 10 Amp switch or a switch and auxiliary relay or something like that. BTW I use the Bosch automotive relays which you can get at Waytek Wire for only a few bux - they have all the correct sockets, relays, and terminals (they do have minimum orders though). Makes for a professional wiring job.

 

Warren We haven't met in person, but on the COFBA board I go by Perry93TransAm, But the 93 Is long Gone, and I'm to lazy to update my username...lol

 

Where can one find the relay pictured in the diagram? Is it already an existing relay under the hood or an aftermarket one? Thanks.

 

O'Reillys has stand alone 30 amp relays, sometimes they call them A/C relays.

But it is basicly a 4 position 30 amp relay.

 

Well I put this off since this thread was initially posted and my dad borrowed my car today and overheated the darn thing because he forgot to flip on the waterpump switch. Good thing he only went down the street and back, but it still boiled over.

So I bought a relay exactly the same as the diagram provided on the link a few posts above. My question just to make sure is if I wire it according to the diagram, I can operate the pump with my manual switch when the car is off, as well as run the pump automatically when the car is turned on? Cause I'm looking at the diagram and it looks like I still need to flip the switch to operate the pump, but then again I'm not so electrically inclined.

Thanks.