I NEVER let anyone work on my car, but I've been having trouble with it starting, and now it's a real issue because most of the time it takes about a half hour to get it started. I thought I'd post one last ditch effort before I take it to a dealer. I'll probably mess with it and go through the factory service manual (which has an explanation of how the security system works, but no diagnostic info) and then I may have to do the unthinkable... let someone else under the hood of my car. I consider this a shame as great as letting someone else down my girlfriend's pants. I have tried everything in these two posts about the problem...

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=358135

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=346683

 

well, i just got done reading your other threads. Have you replaced the ignition switch? It is the rectangular thing about half way down the steering column that the rods from the key cylinder go too. Mine used to have a problem similar to yours and that is what fixed it. They are like $10 from Advance. Another thing is you can have the vats system programmed out of the computer. I did it. It seems like the vats is your whole problem. I understand about letting somebody else work on your car.

 

Did you actually check the clutch safety switch?

it's not uncommon for resistances to increase in worn css and boo switches.


If that not it you could check the opti
I have this theory that anything that goes wrong with an f-body is in some way related to the opti.

 

In reading the previous posts, it still sounds like VATS is a possibility...what happened (i.e. what did the security light do) when you bypassed it with the resistor?

Where are you located? Perhaps someone in your area can assist.

 

I'm familiar with this switch as I currently have my truck hotwired with it hanging under the dash and I use a screwdriver to push the thing through the clicks!!! A good idea and a cheap try. I'll give it a shot.

 

I thought about the clutch switch but didn't try bypassing it yet. Good Plan. Anything is worth a try at this point.

Agreed on the Opti Conspiracy Theory. I had my Opti go out of my '95 and it caused all sorts of havoc. My '97 still has the original Opti but since the '95 is totaled now, the Delteq off it may end up on my '97 if I have problems, or even just because I can.

The OptiSpark is the Devil's Work...

 

I am actually about 90% certain that the VATS is the problem. I can only start the car when the LED on the dash is lit, and vice versa. I found a trick today where I slowly turn the key back from the 'ON' to the 'Off' position, and there's a split second there where the LED comes on, and if I can crank it fast enough before the light goes out, the car starts. I'm going to try this 'Workaround' for a few days and see if it continues to work.

I'm in Winston-Salem, NC, if anybody wants to lend a hand. Beer and Pizza on me!

 

Oh, I forgot to answer your question about the resistor. The car acted exactly the same as before I put the resistor in. Waiting for the LED to light, etc., it was all the same. My Security Light flashes at random and then stays on for lenghts of time and then flashes at random some more the entire time I'm driving the car.

 

Change your starter. Had the same problem, once the engine got warm the starter wouldnt work, let the car cool off over night and bam it would work. Ill bet my life that its your starter.

 

I don't see how that would account for the security light though. I'm thinking it's possibly the VATS module itself.

 

I agree with you guys, And went through the same problem. Mine was where the key went to the ignition cylinder. Something may have worked loose in the cylinder, that if you mess with it long enough it will make contact. One garunteed way to tell it is vats is to try to push start it. If it is vats the car will run for like 5 seconds and shut down because it thinks it is being stolen. I would just have the sys. tuned out

 

I had the same problem.l. it was the VAts system... damn junk! I just bypassed it.... problem gone.

 

If your security light is lit or blinking, the VATs is acting up. Temporarily bypass the TDS by jumping around the TDR. Put a jumper in place of the relay from the yellow to the purple wire. This will then allow you to figure out if the problem is the ignition switch or the solenoid. My guess is the problem will be gone. Also scan it for TD codes. Since you put in a resistor (assuming it was the right value) and it did not help the problem, chances are, you have a wiring or BCM problem. But the jumper around the TDR will pinpoint the problem in no time.

Oh yeah, be careful when you have the jumper in place. It will start when you turn the key no matter what the condition of the clutch or tranny!!!!!!! Don't want you hitting parked cars you know.