The stock crank is nodular iron, same as in the LS1's. 7k is the bare max on a regular LT1 2 bolt. A rebuilt one with ARP bolts, main caps, Clevite 77 bearings, and balanced crank thats done right should handle 7200, maybe even 7300 should your shift timing be a shade off one race. Anything past that, you're just gonna need an extra 2 bolts to stabilize that crank.

BTW, this is kinda off topic, but on an 84 350 4 bolt out of a 3/4 ton truck, is the stock crank cast iron or nodular iron like the LT1's? A friend's 79 Z28 has a motor like this thats warmed over (355) and just trying to find a little more detailed info on the older sb's.

Jason

 

Ive seen 7k on mine, stock bottom end. No problems yet, knock on wood. At 7k the OBD1 ECM crashes and you have to key off and restart, obd2 will rev farther, but it will keep using the last cell value fro all future rpms.

 

My rev limiter is set at 7000. Ive put the car in a lower gear while shifting at 6500-6700 on a couple occasions(granted I usually shift at 5-5.5k), and thought my motor was toast. Stock valvetrain, stock bottom end LT1 with 135k miles. Lucky? probably. But Ive been told the valvetrain is good till 7k from more than a couple guys(including the one who tuned my car) that are as familiar with LT1's as anyone.

 

My rev limiter is at 7k, Ive never had the pcm crash on me.

 

I'm scared to take mine past 6200.

 

I have my limiter set at 6900... I shift at 6750 or so... No problems all summer long

 

Then you have never seen 7k

 

Thats true.. at 7K the pcm will dump on you