I have a Firebird with the LT1 and I all the boltons ported heads and am tring to find out what cam to go with as I want my car to be max effort on the stock bottom end but with a hydraulic roller cam. Untill I get my stroker motor done but that will be a while before it is done. My setup that I have now as far as my engine goes is Ported LT1 heads that flow IN 270 at 500 EX 190 500 I have good mid and low lift numbers also. Heads have been milled .030 I am going to run imp gaskets. 52mm TB, Ported Intake, Hooker LTs, 4inch mufflex EX, TH400 Transmission with an ATI 8 inch converter 4200 stall I might have a trans brake installed. I have a 4.11 Gear in the rear. My race weight will be around 3600lbs I will have the car dyno tuned after it is back up and running. Any suggestions on a cam? This car will be driven on the street but just on weekends.
This car will be all motor max effort LT1 with a hydraulic roller cam and a stock bottom end
Let me know if you need more information

 

One limitation you may run into is the ~7000 rpm limit of the stock PCM. However, the stock internals probably won't be happy about spinning that high anyway. Most folks don't like to spin the stock shortblock over 6500 rpm to be on the safe side.

 

XE 236/242 may be about as big as it gets.

 

Custom grind

 

I have a XE 230/236 112LSA now that I am trying to sell I was thinking on going with somthing with a 110LSA But I would like some advice from someone who is real good with a cam selction before I select a cam on my own. I have called Comp Cams but they are no help at all.

 

Check out Combo www.cmotorsports.com or Nu-Tek www.nu-tekmotorsports.com for a custom grind.

There are other shops in the Vendor index that also sell custom grinds, but these two shops (IMO) will probably do a better job of helping you come up with the spec's.

 

"Max effort"?

I'd look at something in the 242-248@.050 range, .55-.580 lift on a 110 lsa. That'll have you shifting at close to 7k.

-Mindgame

 

With that cam would I still be able to dyno tune using the factory computer? And how difficult would it be to tune? That cam would also make a good cam for my 396 stroker motor when I get it done also right?

 

well make sure you can use all of the cam that you buy. If your spinning to 6500 something like a 224/236 should be just right...
Even my cc305 cam 220/230 with 1.6 rockers continue to hold steady horsepower up to 6500 rpms

 

Spinning to 6500 rpm or actually making power to 6500 rpm? There is a difference and I imagine that you guys who are making 6500 rpm shifts in 383's with 220-ish cams would likely see very similar ETs with a shift at some 300 or more rpm less. Try it, it'll save you some valvetrain wear.


Yes, there are guys runing more aggressive cams than that, tuning with the factory computer. "Max effort" to me means getting as much as you can get before 7k. So you try to make power to 6600-6700 rpm and shift before 7. At least that's the way I see it.
Tuning shouldn't be too difficult. I would skip the mail order jobs and have the thing tuned on a local dyno...... well, even if you have to travel a ways it'd be well worth it.
And yes, that cam would be a "mild" one in a 396. IMO of course.

-Mindgame