manual fan switch
manual fan switch
I was told that there is a way to ground out the elec fans on our cars and route it to a toggle switch to turn them on, is this true. I tried one method and it didnt work, (was told that it might not on a 94) And are the fans on a 12 volt circut or on a ground circut. THanks Prorac1
Thank you for your response. Thats a slick set up, but is theyre anything simpler? I dont need led lights or anything, or seperate operation of high low speeds, i just wanted to have a 2 pos switch that had both fans tied to one side (to turn them on manually) and the other side would be normal (automatic) operation. I did see one on your website listed under fan switch obd1 that looked interesting, but what/where is the 6 plug connector? THankyou Prorac1
Last edited by Prorac1; Mar 2, 2003 at 12:47 AM.
Originally posted by Prorac1
Thank you for your response. Thats a slick set up, but is theyre anything simpler? I dont need led lights or anything, or seperate operation of high low speeds, i just wanted to have a 2 pos switch that had both fans tied to one side (to turn them on manually) and the other side would be normal (automatic) operation. I did see one on your website listed under fan switch obd1 that looked interesting, but what/where is the 6 plug connector? THankyou Prorac1
Thank you for your response. Thats a slick set up, but is theyre anything simpler? I dont need led lights or anything, or seperate operation of high low speeds, i just wanted to have a 2 pos switch that had both fans tied to one side (to turn them on manually) and the other side would be normal (automatic) operation. I did see one on your website listed under fan switch obd1 that looked interesting, but what/where is the 6 plug connector? THankyou Prorac1
Wire like this, but leave off the connections to the LEDs and omit the diodes. This will still give you 2 speed operation. If you really don't want that, just get a SPST switch and double up the blue and green wires on one lug, ground on the other.
You can get a fan control switch from SLP for like $80 shipped. Easy to install......took me like 10 min. It works great! Here is the link to the fan switch http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...RTNUMBER=63011
Good luck
Good luck
I am a dealer of SLP, I can get it a little lower then $80. Email me or PM me if you want this switch and I'll shoot you a price back. By the way, I did a custom switch in my 94 camaro (without the LEDs, etc) and mine works great, hasn't failed in the 6 months I've installed it. I am running mine off the relays under the hood (drivers side). I only have one speed and I'm not sure which speed but I would be $1 that its on high
Thank you all for your replys, i did just what ya said and have installed a switch from the relays. Only used the high speed like your self and so far so good
, Thanks again guys for all the help, and a special thanks to shoe box for all of the AWSOME
tech articals on this and many other mods, thank you. Prorac1
, Thanks again guys for all the help, and a special thanks to shoe box for all of the AWSOME
tech articals on this and many other mods, thank you. Prorac1
You all might want to convert your switching mechanisms to a relay, actuated by a switch, it will be better for your entire system. Switches are not really designed to handle the inductive load of a pair of fans, it will probably work just fine the way you have it set up, with the exception of excessive current traveling back through the switch, which is a fire hazard.
I am an Electronics Technician in the Navy, so I can field most electrical questions you guys have.
I am an Electronics Technician in the Navy, so I can field most electrical questions you guys have.
I didnt ground mine, i tried it that way but it blew the fuse. so i ran it from the light blue wire on the primary relay, to a switch, out the switch to the cigarette lighter for a hot, works great sofar, not activating the fans, just the relay. Thank you, Prorac1
Last edited by Prorac1; Mar 3, 2003 at 08:53 PM.
I am not entirely sure what you people were saying in the replies that you made to me, but:
No switch should ever interrupt the "flow of current" to ground, meaning you should never install a switch in the ground wire of a circuit.
If what you are trying to accomplish is merely energizing the pre-existing fan relay, then you should be using a double throw relay (or at least a fused switch) to simultaneously interrupt the turn on lead from the computer, and energize the fan relay.
I am really not trying to sound like a JA, but basically what I just described is an electrical system that will more or less, disconnect the computer's turn on lead and substitute it with the power you supply via the switch. This eliminates the chance of having an overcurrent situation at the relay when both your switch and the computer are trying to energize the fan relay.
I am not sure if you were questioning if I knew wtf i was talking about, if you were, I assure you I do.
I have noticed a lot of people with electrical problems/questions, that are not using fused links/relays when installing electrical components. When utilizing a relay you are making less of an impact on the car's electrical system, the wires that are run through the car are designed to be left alone. But if you are posting here, you are obviously not leaving your car the way it was intended to be. So if you use items such as relays when making modifications (ie. Adding meters, lighting, extra cooling, stereo equipment) you are actually reducing the amount of current that the wire you are tapping into is carrying.
Oh, and one last thing, when you said that you were using the switch to gound the system, that it wasn't hot, that was a large misunderstanding. Current flows from negative to positive, and your ground wire is connected to your negative terminal (via the chassis).
No switch should ever interrupt the "flow of current" to ground, meaning you should never install a switch in the ground wire of a circuit.
If what you are trying to accomplish is merely energizing the pre-existing fan relay, then you should be using a double throw relay (or at least a fused switch) to simultaneously interrupt the turn on lead from the computer, and energize the fan relay.
I am really not trying to sound like a JA, but basically what I just described is an electrical system that will more or less, disconnect the computer's turn on lead and substitute it with the power you supply via the switch. This eliminates the chance of having an overcurrent situation at the relay when both your switch and the computer are trying to energize the fan relay.
I am not sure if you were questioning if I knew wtf i was talking about, if you were, I assure you I do.
I have noticed a lot of people with electrical problems/questions, that are not using fused links/relays when installing electrical components. When utilizing a relay you are making less of an impact on the car's electrical system, the wires that are run through the car are designed to be left alone. But if you are posting here, you are obviously not leaving your car the way it was intended to be. So if you use items such as relays when making modifications (ie. Adding meters, lighting, extra cooling, stereo equipment) you are actually reducing the amount of current that the wire you are tapping into is carrying.
Oh, and one last thing, when you said that you were using the switch to gound the system, that it wasn't hot, that was a large misunderstanding. Current flows from negative to positive, and your ground wire is connected to your negative terminal (via the chassis).
You really want to do it like the wiring diagram shows. It is substituting the ground from the switch as if it were the pcm ground to operate the relay. You don't need a connection to 12v power to do this.
If you wire it to the relay position and bypass the relay where you have to provide 12v power, you are putting all that current through the wire you ran and the new switch. That is a poor and less safe way to do it, IMO.
If you wire it to the relay position and bypass the relay where you have to provide 12v power, you are putting all that current through the wire you ran and the new switch. That is a poor and less safe way to do it, IMO.
umm, maybe im wrong, it happens from time to time, but in those directions it says, original idea, than i found this one, and than i LIKE this one. I couldnt get into the last one, so i looked at the middle one and, uh, dude, they use a positive, like i did, wtf, im confused, sombody shoot me, lol. Ughhh, Thanks Prorac1
ok, let me be REAL specific here. READ the install guide that was just posted on here, read all three on that page. I used the second one where the guy put the toggle switch in the kick panel. He used a hot if im not mistaken. If im wrong please correct me. THanks dude, lol, i still got my sence of humor
. Thanks for all the input, prorac1
. Thanks for all the input, prorac1
Originally posted by Prorac1
ok, let me be REAL specific here. READ the install guide that was just posted on here, read all three on that page. I used the second one where the guy put the toggle switch in the kick panel. He used a hot if im not mistaken. If im wrong please correct me. THanks dude, lol, i still got my sence of humor
. Thanks for all the input, prorac1
ok, let me be REAL specific here. READ the install guide that was just posted on here, read all three on that page. I used the second one where the guy put the toggle switch in the kick panel. He used a hot if im not mistaken. If im wrong please correct me. THanks dude, lol, i still got my sence of humor
. Thanks for all the input, prorac1
I know not everyone agrees.


