Do you guys think 25 ft of bulk MSD wire is enough to make the entire kit? It gives me a little over 3' to use per wire. I'm thinking It will be enough but I'm not totally sure.

What do you guys think?

 

That would probably be enough, I dont have exact measurements of mine so i couldnt tell ya exactly how much youll need.

 

25ft should be enough. You might want to get some Taylor firesleeves since some of the wires are going to be real close to the header tubes.

 

Good idea. I'm going all out this time. I've gone through way too much with these wires, I wanna solve the issue once and for all.

 

im about 98% sure that would be enough.

 

I would like to know how much wire this takes also. I may just go with the MSD cut to fit wires, but I'm thinking I want their black wire, which doesn't appear to be available in a cut to fit set.

 

Just hoping someone will see this that's made their own wires using the MSD bulk wire & boots.

 

this should be helpful:

Over The Valve Cover wire lengths:
1. 29" _ 2. 30.5" _ 3. 33" _ 4. 33" _ 5. 37" _ 6. 41" _ 7. 41" _ 8. 40.5" _ C. 10.25
As measured BETWEEN the boots.

 

Spring for the high dollar crimper too. You won't be sorry.

 

Those wire lengths are very handy. That MSD crimper ain't cheap.

 

no, but id does the best job of crimpimg compared to the stripper/crimpers out there. Summit sells them under their name too for a little less., but once you try them, you won't like the looks of the others, especially if you do multiple sets.

 

Get a crimp tool from Thunder Racing for $10, pn 04-43390 (http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=198). I bought one and works great.

 

This is the one I was referring to. You can buy dies for it to crimp spark plug wires, electrical connectors, weatherhead pins, amphenol connectors, etc. I have had all kinds of sparkplug wire crimpers and the ratcheting type, for me, are far superior as they roll the connector's flanges around and crimp them the tightest I've seen. I've had the other crimps pull off before. Just my 2 cents.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

You need the crimp tool and if you want the god honest truth. if this is the last time you ever want to do this.... DO it this way... Route the wires any way you can o keep them as far from each header as possible. The spacing will be a little different on each side and this is ok. I will post a pic of my setup and for the lt1 using the opti and not ltcc or deltec this way will solve all of your problems. Also invest in moroso heat protective tubing. It comes with small blue heat shrink tube ends. Cut your wires to the right length and custom make each one at a time. Start at the rear on the passenger side and work your way up and do the same for the driver side. It took me about a whole days work to get each one perfect. I used the crimp tool. I did a couple practice crimps before I did it to a wire. I left an inch or two extra on each wire. Get some needle nose pliers that have long handles and shove them inside the boot ends that you have to use with the wires. Dont forget to get the boot end all the way on first. invest in some silicone lubricant. it is worth it's weight in GOLD. You have to shove the needle nose in the boots and stretch them so hard you think you will break it. Then quickly feed the wire in and get it as far on as possible and I am telling you. USE MUSCLE. To stretch the boots. Use a LOT of lube and try not to bend the wire. You will destroy the core. If you dont stretch the boots enough and you dont use enough lube, the wire will be impossible to get into the boot and you will bend it like crazy trying to force it in.

Then use the moroso tubing and use a razor and cut it to the length up to the otc wire holders. The sleeving will not fit through the wire holders. When you are done you will have double fat awesome looking wies with heat shrinked sleeves that go all the way up to the valve covers. Teased away from the headers and held in place solid. Getting the wire looms on is a pain in the friggen *** because the little screws that hold them together thread into a nut that is underneath. there is no room underneath for your fingers so you have to put the loom where it will be but dont screw it down all the way. Then get the little nut on your fingertip and carefully put it underneath the loom. if you drop it... you will never find it so have extras or use extreme care. I lost a couple and took them from another loom I did not need... p.i.t.a. My setup came out incredible and it is awesome to say that is checked off the list of possibilities for problems. My ignition is working perfect now. Did it once before with some aweful heat cover that was silver. It did not work. Wires were burned through in two spots and arcing to the header... You dont want that! Now I just need to figure out why my idle is creeping up. I will post a picture of the wire setup. post if you did it already so I dont waste my time... Have to wait for day light to take pictures. ..

 

another thing. Definately do some practice crimps. it is easy but do it to practice. The little metal pieces have a part that crimps around the wire rubber. All you need to do is strip the rubber from the core of the wire for this exact length. (length of the little metal part that crimps to the rubber) then bend over the core and crimp the metal around it. DONE. it is a piece of cake. Definately do a search and see how someone has taken pictures of it and read what I just wrote and it will make sense. Ratcheting crimpers are the best but if you use the cheap kind just look at an old set of wires. Cut the boot off and look at the factory crimp. MAKE IT LOOK THE SAME. It is that simple. it has to be tight. Almost ripping the rubber from crimping into it so hard. Tighter is better then loose and use dialectric compound on all the metal ends before you slip the boots back over the metal.

seriously. Use your eye and make it look like a factory crimp. the cheap crimpers take crimping it hard once down. then each side and a cleanup crimp to make it all even and nice. it is more of a feel/eye art thing PRACTICE