My 96 Z has crossed over the 100 mark and I was wondering what I should insure/look out for/ make sure as this is a keeper. Maint has been always on time or early and the car runs fine. Just looking ahead. BTW this is a daily driver in the city. Thanks.
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not sure what all you've fixed and repaired, but...
water pump, heater core, thermostat, opti, and I'm assuming you have already changed the plug wires and plugs. also be prepared for power window motors going out if they have'nt already. shocks/struts will need changed too i'm sure. it's not a bad idea to replace all of your suspension bushing to poly bushings and such.
also, if it is an auto, you're going to want to change the trans fluid. i would only change it if the fluid is still a shade of red. if not, it's already too late. you should do a complete trans fluid change, as well as the filter every 30,000 miles. many people bypass this maintnence up. according to most you should "never" have to change your trans fluid... which is true, but it sure will last longer when you replace it regularly. seals and bands last much much longer. but better late than never if it's never been changed.
water pump, heater core, thermostat, opti, and I'm assuming you have already changed the plug wires and plugs. also be prepared for power window motors going out if they have'nt already. shocks/struts will need changed too i'm sure. it's not a bad idea to replace all of your suspension bushing to poly bushings and such.
also, if it is an auto, you're going to want to change the trans fluid. i would only change it if the fluid is still a shade of red. if not, it's already too late. you should do a complete trans fluid change, as well as the filter every 30,000 miles. many people bypass this maintnence up. according to most you should "never" have to change your trans fluid... which is true, but it sure will last longer when you replace it regularly. seals and bands last much much longer. but better late than never if it's never been changed.
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forgot one thing. You should have your rotors turned and trued up if possible. if they are bad, buy new ones. after 88k miles, i had to grind down the front rotors about 15 thousandths on each side to get them true, which is pushing the limit. (generally 30-36 thousandths on domestic thick rotors) unless you are doing some heavy duty road racing, rotors with 30 thousands trimming will be fine against heat and failure. calipers should be rebuilt with new seals as well. i picked up a seal kit for $5 per caliper. with the exception of some honing, the seals are all you will need to make sure your pistons never stick in the near future. at 88k miles, my calipers did not need honing, so i just lubed up the piston with brake fluid and worked it back in. but never overlook your brakes. i might be stating the obvious, but i see at least 3 people a day driving with bad brakes. you should see some of the metal on metal jobs we got from some of these women, in the shops. 
Registered User
Quote:
You would think huh? If you transmission has 100k on it, and the fluid has never been changed, i wouldint change it. Could cause your transmission to start slipping, which is never good. Originally Posted by blackztpi
seals and bands last much much longer. but better late than never if it's never been changed.
Registered User
SS, if you'd read up a lil on my first post, i instructed to change it if and only if it was still a shade of red on the dipstick. anything dark means it's already dead and you might experience slipping if changed.
Thanks guys. I guess all is good. I have met the intake leak, opti, and upgrades have done the rest. I will wait for the windows to fail ( I think the tracks are off line as they are scratching). I also believe in brakes. I have recent drilled rotors and pads (good ones). Suspension is on the way as it is causing alignment problems (original stockers if you can believe it).
