yes i did use search button,
any help is -greatly- appreciated. i really need some serious advice.

well went to the machine shop yesterday, found out my block was ok ,(threw rod, had block hot tanked/magnafluxed)..

got final price on my forged 383 stroker setup and it blew me out of the water. around 5,500$ 3200 for parts, (all real good ****)(crank,rods,pistons,rings,bearings,springs,) and 1900$ for labor. that was out of my budget.

my question is, if i went with a 355?
with a 355, i can reuse my stock crank correct? and will the machine work be cheaper?

--OR--

if there wouldn't be any machine work needed, COULD i put forged 4.000 (stock size) piston, forged rods, minimal machine work, and pc/sc it.

if i kept a stock bore, put forged pistons/rods in it,blower cam and put like ex: 8 lbs procharger on it, what would my estimated rwhp be? (before all this happened, i was around 380rwhp or so, le2 heads, le1 cam)

 

You can piece together a stroker kit for much less...seriously. If you plan on making 800+ rwhp...the sheet costs $$$, but for your 500 rwhp setup...cheaper setups work fine.

As for labor...$1900 seems rather high to build a stroker motor. Your going to have machining costs...but hot tanking, magnafluxing, boring, line bore, etc...is not much.

Being you already have it at the shop...and you have to buy different pistons anyways...get is .030".

The easiest way is a 383 setup IMO. Put a Procharger on it, keep your rpms reasonable and don't go nuts on converter/gear.

As for rwhp...you need to address the cam, what quality of gas and who is tuning it. And that is the start of it.

 

just so you know, the only difference in a 383 ad a 355 for the machinist is if they need to work the old crank... they have to bore it out to the same 4.030 for either of them, you should have it line bored also, then there is balancing and installing the new assem., and you are already paying for them to check out the block, but I agree the 1900 sound pretty high!

Look for a cheeper rotating assembly, you will find them out there!! MUCH cheeper then that, too..

Good luck!

 

trust me , after throwing a rod and going through all of this hassle, i want to put good stuff in there. as far as the parts price, here is basically what i was getting, ( don't have the sheet w/ me, at work )

scat lightweight crank 900
h beams 425
pistons 750
all bearings, maybe 75
springs/locks/retainers 185
oil pan, pump/pickup 250
bronze valve guides ?
and a bunch of other small stuff i don't remember.
my head has a 52.5 cc chamber, to get the compression i want 10.3:1 or so, i needed to have a custom piston made,,the j & e piston choices put me around 11:1 and then 9.7:1 ,,and the srp flat tops i forgot but it was a lil higher than 11:1 i think. he said 11:1 i will need a mixture of race/pump gas. this car is not a daily driver, but i want to be able to run pump gas.
as far as the machine work, there was a whole list of **** to be done, this is one of the better shops here in stlouis, and that was EVERYTHING to make it as best as it could be. and thats the way i wanted it done.... as they say, "do it right the 1st time" and thats why i'm in this mess.

anyway, it looks like if i go w/ a 355 setup, i will need machine work.
will i be able to use stock crank, new forged rods, forged pistons on stock bore, and get a blower? maybe getting a stronger crank, but in a stock size?
as for the cam, i want to go as aggressive as i can, hydrallic. my choice for my 383 was around a 236/242 .608 on 110 or 108 lsa. but i think blow cams are totally different i'm sure.
thanks a ton again for the help. i don't want to rush this, but my block is at the machine shop and i need to make some decisions.

 

since you have to rebuild it always add cubes. if you buy a stronger stock crank then you might as well get a stroker. same goes for the rods.

 

unfortunately its not in the budget.

 

Those prices for your parts seem kinda high, $900 for a crank is a lot why not just get an eagle forged crank. It would more than hold your power and its only $489. You can get Eagle H beams $350. I am getting these prices from Seco Performance 800-633-3846 they have great prices and are a pleasure to deal with. I got all my bottom end stuff from them when I built my stroker. Also, you dont need to get the oil pan the stock one works just fine. You can also save yourself a bit of money on the machine work by clearancing the block yourself. All you have to do is bolt the new crank in and turn it till it hits and grind the block till it will spin and repeat process.

Here is my complete parts list and I hope it helps:

Seco Performance 800-633-3864(must order my phone)
Eagle SIR LW 6" bushed rods=$199
or Eagle H beams=$349
Eagle steel crank 383=$209
Eagle forged crank 383=$489

Summit
KB sig. series pistons part#uem-kb122030-8=$235(a lot of people will say that these pistons wont handle the load but, I have personally seen these in two 600+ hp nitrous motors and hold up very well)
comp pushrods P# cca-7808-16=$35
comp Pro magnum RR 1.6 P# cca-1302-16=$265
summit guide plates P# sum-g6451=$16
crane roller lifters P# crn-10530-16=$183
Ford Racing 30# injectors P# fms-m9593b302=$219
Miloden Windage tray P# mil-32250=$74
Speed Pro moly rings (ask which ones you need when you order pistons)=$92-98
Federal Mogul rod and main bearing; M P#fem-4663m=$18 R P#fem-2555cp=$27

Lloyd Elliot
Full port and polish, dual valve springs, removal of two broken bolts, 2.00, 1.57 valves=$1100

Mckay's napa and machine, Virden Il
bore .030 over, hot tank, check main alignment, clearance rods and block for 383, balance rotating ***., torque plate hone=$750

Total with what I have=$3425
W/ forged crank + Hbeams=$3855

 

Before I would buy a forged Eagle crank, I would buy my crank in the For Sale section...shameless plug....

As for running KB's...nothing wrong with them, but the take abuse poorly. Any detonation will shred them apart...something that I would be concerned about in a boosted app. I can show you pictures of what happens to ring lands that had issues...

You will need to address your fuel needs, probably a 42 lb injector for your setup and a decent fuel pump.

I can see paying $500 for labor for putting a motor together...maybe.

 

i am assembling the engine myself, that price is for all the work getting the block ready. i need to go home and get the sheet and post it. i was in the same boat before the last 2 weeks. but once u actually are ready to go, there is ALOT of stuff that needs to be done. the thing is, the guy said eagle cranks aren't junk, but they get alot that aren't straight,
i don't want to put cheap parts in it.
i already have comp pushrods.lifters/rockers. before all of this it was a head/cammed car.
the 383 is out of the picture. i now need to know if i can procharge a head/cammed car, with a stock bored block/crank with forged rods/pistons

 

Your probably still going to want to get it balanced using a stock crank with aftermarket rods/pistons.

Stock cranks are not given enough credit...but they have a limit and a decent boosted app IMO would eat it up quick.

 

Thats not entirely true, KB will take a lot of abuse, what happens most of the time is that people that use them dont use the correct ring gaps. KB pistons expand quite a bit more than other pistons and thus require a much larger gap. Most people dont take the time to check the gap and adjust accordingly. I agree though, they have no place in a heavy boost application, but he was saying that he didnt want to speed 5-6k and I gave him a viable option that would serve him well in an n/a motor that is capable of 450RWHP. I personally like Eagle better than scat because I have yet to see a snapped eagle and I have seen two scats. Eagle cranks are known for occationally being off spec on the main journals, but they are still "straight." However, you will find that with any budget crank(which includes scat). I knew this when I bought mine and the first thing I did was mic everything and it checked out fine. If I hadnt I would have simply had it ground to spec. If you dont want to go through that I suggest you move up to a Callies or Lunati as they have strictor tolerances that they adhear to, but that comes with a price. You will be hard pressed to build a motor like that on your budget.

 

If you spend the money on good rods and pistons your crank should hold up to 8-9 psi. I think that a boosted 355 is the way to go and I have wished several times that I would have gone that route.

 

[QUOTE=Formula03]Thats not entirely true, KB will take a lot of abuse, what happens most of the time is that people that use them dont use the correct ring gaps. KB pistons expand quite a bit more than other pistons and thus require a much larger gap. Most people dont take the time to check the gap and adjust accordingly.

BS,You can't depend on those hyper u craptit pistons to take a good rattle. I have blown them out of an engine with 2* to high of timing and I build engines in my shop. Along with molly rings, I wouldn't put them in my lawn mower.I believe my B&S has a better piston in it from the factory than a hyper u craptit.