LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

M6 Bell Housing Removal Please HELP!

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Old May 3, 2003 | 04:39 PM
  #1  
ChevyCamZ28's Avatar
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From: San Diego, CA
M6 Bell Housing Removal Please HELP!

Guys,

I am up to removing my bell housing from the block and I can't get any type of socket and swivel over that 10 oclock bolt! (Its the top one of the two vertical bolts on the drivers side of the bell housing)

I tried to lower the engine all the way down but still not enough clearance. I tried to push it down a little but still no clearance.

I can get a socket on it, but I need a swivel on it as well so I can turn it! But the swivel just won't fit in between the bell housing and the tunnel!

I can get a wrench on it, but there's so little room for leverage and the bolt is very tight on there...

Please, how did you guys get this darn bolt out??!!

HELP!!

Thanks,

Mike
Old May 3, 2003 | 04:57 PM
  #2  
Mikey97Z's Avatar
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I had to buy a swivel socket of that specific size. It has the swivel built in and it's very compact. I couldn't get those bolts without it. In fact it makes the whole tranny removal process a lot easier.
Old May 3, 2003 | 05:39 PM
  #3  
Javier97Z28's Avatar
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man weird how clearance is different for different cars...

just pulled a 6spd out of my friend's car the other day... we had the tranny itself out (after remove the stuff around it) out in about 30 minutes.... just used a regular swivel, extension, and sockets...

as suggested though, u might want to buy a built in swivel socket.
Old May 4, 2003 | 12:50 AM
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ChevyCamZ28's Avatar
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Old May 5, 2003 | 12:17 PM
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QUASARBLUEZ28's Avatar
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From: Berkeley Spgs, WVA
I found that the swivel works OK and once you get it out, pound the tunnel area to get more clearence. You might try going in from the top (shifter hole) with long extensions. Its a more straight shot. Another trick is to use 1/4 sockets and extensions.
Old May 5, 2003 | 12:25 PM
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From: Too Dark Park
If I remember right I had to take a small (8-10") piece of 2x4 and wedge it between the top of the engine/bellhousing and the tunnel to get enough clearance. After that no sweat.
Old May 6, 2003 | 02:45 AM
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limige's Avatar
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From: sebewaing, mi
i made sure to get that bolt out while the trans was still bolted on. that way, just drop the crossmember and pull the shifter, then use a prybar through the shifter hole and pry against the back of the trans to attain the needed clearance.


it sucks, anyone think of moving the whole engine and trans forward 1" and welding the motor mounts to make this all easier?
Old May 6, 2003 | 10:05 AM
  #8  
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Originally posted by limige
i made sure to get that bolt out while the trans was still bolted on. that way, just drop the crossmember and pull the shifter, then use a prybar through the shifter hole and pry against the back of the trans to attain the needed clearance.


it sucks, anyone think of moving the whole engine and trans forward 1" and welding the motor mounts to make this all easier?
HELL NO!!!!

Most people can get it with a swivel socket, but If it's that big of a problem for you, try bangin with a BFH on the sheetmetal in the tranny tunnel to make some clearance for your socket to get in there next time ... like QUASARBLUEZ28 said.
Old May 6, 2003 | 10:16 AM
  #9  
ChevyCamZ28's Avatar
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From: San Diego, CA
Thanks for all the help!

I wound up buying a swivel socket set from sears and that gave me enough clearance to get the bolt off. Man I'd like to shoot the engineers sometimes..

Mike
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