M6 with 500 rwhp...
#1
M6 with 500 rwhp...
I was just wondering if you can do anything to make the stock rear end handle high HP with ET streets? I am just wondering what breaks, the internals or the casing? If i wanted to change out all the internals, bolt on anything that will make it stronger and maybe weld 1/2 inch sheet metal to the neck to make it stronger(ie wont break off the "snout"). I dont have 2 grand to replace my stocker with a 12 bolt.
BTW i want to eventually turn 500+ rwhp from my car....What needs to be done to the driveline other than the centerforce clutch i already have in her?
BTW i want to eventually turn 500+ rwhp from my car....What needs to be done to the driveline other than the centerforce clutch i already have in her?
#2
Re: M6 with 500 rwhp...
ET streets with that much rwhp on stock 10bolt?! You would be best off saving your money and simply investing towards that 12bolt. I know its a lot of money but that 10bolt will not last long. Also, with that much hp you probably would want to consider a street twin clutch, not a centerforce. Again...just like the 10bolt, the centerforce will work but for how long is the question. I think you would be best off sticking the money into the drivetrain before the engine if you plan on making that much hp.
Aaron
Aaron
#3
Re: M6 with 500 rwhp...
Can someone please explain what makes a 12 bolt stronger than my stock 10 bolt. Is it internals or the casing that is stronger. I have ideas to replace all the internals with top of the line parts and weld braces to the snout to streghten my stock 10 bolt. I will do the usual T/A or equivelent girdle.
#4
Re: M6 with 500 rwhp...
Can someone please explain what makes a 12 bolt stronger than my stock 10 bolt. Is it internals or the casing that is stronger.
#5
Re: M6 with 500 rwhp...
You will never make a 10 bolt out of a f body any where near as strong as a 12bolt or nine inch. The Ring and pinion gears are the biggest difference. The 12 bolt ring gear is almost 9" in diameter and alot beafer than the 7.5" ring gear of a f body 10 bolt. hope this helps.
Kory
Kory
#6
Re: M6 with 500 rwhp...
So basically you cant (any way in the world) make it as strong as a 12 bolt. I mean If i do buy a 12 bolt or 9 inch then it will be used or they will give it away for around $1200. Anyone know where i can buy this cheap. If not im doing the caucasian custom job on welding supports on the neck and other stress parts, rebuild with STRONGEST parts i can find and do a ta girdle on it. I just need to make sure my baby dosnt break beacause with my excellent luck it would be on the way to prom or something good like that. I plan on pushing 550+ rwhp and need to get the rear end and driveshaft up to par soon enough. The centerforce clutch hasnt gone in and i might have them do a street twin on it instead so i wont have to replace her too. So if i get the rear end squared away, replace the driveshaft with a 3.5 incher and the clutch, what else needs to be done to my drivetrain to fix her. 550+ rwhp is NOT with the 100 shot or 150 shot im going to run. Ohh by the way i plan on some et streets. Now i need advice on what to do with the tranny....Im keeping my t-56! And with the heads/cam,driveshaft, rearend, clutch, tranny upgrades and dyno + tires= way to much for my 16 year old AZZ to pay for....so it will be a project to work on for awhile. Thats why im soo cheap...gotta pay for my LOW INSURANCE And my GREAT FUEL ECONOMY . I need a plan of action that u guys have took and a cheap one at that. Thanks, Brian Kaiser
#7
Re: M6 with 500 rwhp...
If you can afford 550+ rwhp, you can afford a strong rear end. If you can't afford the strong rear end, you can't afford to put down 550+ rwhp. It's that simple. That kind of rwhp is not cheap nor reliable. Keep that in mind too - you might want to find a stock C5 to borrow for prom
#8
Re: M6 with 500 rwhp...
problem is, finding those "strongest parts for a GM 7.5 10bolt" that will be a tough road to travel, otherwise others would have already done it and not purchased the 12bolt or 9"
if you know any good fabricators/welders/metal workers, it shouldnt be hard to turn a 8.5" 10bolt out of a b-body (slightly smaller then a 12bolt) or a 8.8" out of a mustang (slightly bigger then a 12bolt) or a 9" out of a Lincoln into a useable rearend that can bolt into a 4th gen chassis
toughest part too conquer is the TQ arm mount, the rest of the mounts (spring perches/LCA brackets etc.) can be taken off of your stock 10bolt and rewelded onto the new rear in the correct locations
you should be able to find any of those rears off the net for $200-$300, probably local to you also (just search mustang/B-body message boards and the like)
prolly need to shorten or widen the axle tubes also as well as purchase new axles and such but i believe one could do it for a good bit cheaper then a Moser or Strange rear will cost new
if you know any good fabricators/welders/metal workers, it shouldnt be hard to turn a 8.5" 10bolt out of a b-body (slightly smaller then a 12bolt) or a 8.8" out of a mustang (slightly bigger then a 12bolt) or a 9" out of a Lincoln into a useable rearend that can bolt into a 4th gen chassis
toughest part too conquer is the TQ arm mount, the rest of the mounts (spring perches/LCA brackets etc.) can be taken off of your stock 10bolt and rewelded onto the new rear in the correct locations
you should be able to find any of those rears off the net for $200-$300, probably local to you also (just search mustang/B-body message boards and the like)
prolly need to shorten or widen the axle tubes also as well as purchase new axles and such but i believe one could do it for a good bit cheaper then a Moser or Strange rear will cost new
#10
Re: M6 with 500 rwhp...
Like pretty much all have said, the weak link is the ring and pinion. There is just now way that a 7.5" ring gear will hold up to 550rwhp especially in an M6 car. You'll probably be ok with street tires that dont hook for a while, but as soon as you hook on that 7.5.....BOOM!
My advice to people who want to build high hp is to start at the back of the car and move forward. I know it seems less exciting, but if you don't fortify your driveline and everything else is pointless. Get your driveline and chassis sorted out first and then turn up the wick. "Horsepower costs $$$$, how fast do you want to go?" ..Good luck...
--Alan
My advice to people who want to build high hp is to start at the back of the car and move forward. I know it seems less exciting, but if you don't fortify your driveline and everything else is pointless. Get your driveline and chassis sorted out first and then turn up the wick. "Horsepower costs $$$$, how fast do you want to go?" ..Good luck...
--Alan
#12
Re: M6 with 500 rwhp...
In the end i will make the right move, but first im going to work my way up from cheapest to most expensive. Your probably right about working your way from the back forward, and yes its less exciting. I might look into a used 9inch or 12 bolt on a car that wouldnt be able to rag it out. Help me out on places to find new/used rearends that will easily hold 700 rwhp. Thanks, Brian Kaiser
#15
Re: M6 with 500 rwhp...
I was predicting that my motor would make 500-550 rwhp with the mods I want to do and then I also want to do a 100 shot of the gas to top it off making it 600-650 rwhp and I figure that if the rearend is rated for 750, My 16 year old abusive driving habits shouldnt mess it up. And BTW my cars hp only multiplies like that on the internet. LOL. Thanks, Brian Kaiser