There is a possibility that I broke my timing chain. I don't have the money for an LT4 Extreme duty, so I found dome products that are stretching my budget, but are doable.
I found an Edelbrock, and Lunati timing chain set for about $100. I also found a Cloyes oversized crankshaft gear (to tighten up the chain a little) for $49, and then a chain (not sure if it's Cloyes also) for another $33.
Which direction should I go? If I boke my timing chain, do I need a whole new set, or just a new chain?

 

none of those chains will be able to drive the stock waterpump. your options are to stay stock or lt4 chain if you want to keep the stock pump

 

If cash is tight just stay with the stock on.Why do you think your stock one broke?

 

Are you sure about that? Kragen has a part # for the Edelbrock that states it's a direct replacement for the LT1 setup, and NAPA has a Cloyes part # that is also a direct replacement. I'd have to look in my notes where I found the Lunati set.

I if I'm going to go through the trouble of replaceming it, I'd like to have at least some sort of upgrade. The LT1 stock chain setup supposedly has to much slack in it, and I know at least the Cloyes unit has a slightly larger crank gear (like what's available for the LT4 Extreme Duty) to help with that.
I need to raplace it because, after thinking my car had an ignition issue and finding it wasn't that, because I'm pretty sure I've either jumped the chain, or it broke. Right now, I'm just waiting to do a compression check to make sure. I just need the info on how to do one.

 

For the 4th gen cars, Edelbrock only has Timing sets for the V6.
Cloyes has no listing for LT1 sets.
I've got an extra chain if yours is broke, $10 + shipping, but you stated you want a tighter chain.

 

I'd find the extra money and get the GM ED timing set.

 

I'd get the cloyes double roller and an Electric Waterpump. I've had nothing but trouble with that damn waterpump drive seal.

 

That is a tough seal to work with. It has frustrated many. There is a special procedure to be used that avoids damaging the seal upon installing the cover on top of the WP shaft and enjoy a leak free seal. If I hadn't been made aware of it, mine would probably have leaked also.

I'm not a fan of electric WPs on street vehicles. Their failure can spell instant disaster for the engine.

 

I've got an install tool made by a guy from Callaway Cars, but I used the tool wrong and messed up the seal, so I gave up and went electric.

pump failure is a major concern, but having an extra pump with you and some coolant, you can swap them on the side of the road in minutes after the engine cools a bit.

 

Unfortaunetly, an elctric pump, as well as and ED timing chain are out of the question (trust, I would if I could). It looks as though I'll be purchasing a stock unit. Question though, is the water pump driven off of the crank, or cam gear? I'm wondering because Cloyes sells a stand alone crank gear that is slightly larger to take up the slack. Maybe I can use that with a stock set up.
Also, if the chain just humped some teeth, do I still need to replace it, if all looks good? I imagine so.

 

You don't need the ED set when you run electric pump, just a nice $80 double roller set.

WP is driven by the cam gear.

 

Double roller is about $60 from Combination Motorsports.

 

What, $60? I' could have wsorn I've seen those going for $600+!

 

You're thinking of a belt drive system.

 

It just seems weird that the Cloyes replacement unit runs $128, while a double roller, which I imagine is better, is half that cost. Anyone want to fill me in?