Where would I find one of these I've googled and ebay but can't seem to find one ?

 

What you are looking for would probably be an LT4 knock module. There is no LT4-specific knock sensor. The LT4 used the same 100kOhm knock sensor as the 96/97 LT1, and that would not be compatible with your 94 PCM.

The LT4 knock module has been discontinued. You could try "Parts For Sale" and "Parts Wanted" in the Marketplace forums.

GM Part # is 16214681 (courtesy of Shoebox).

 

Alright thanks
they have them on ebay but i think they are from china is this needed ?

 

"needed"?

the LT4 KM (module) was used because the LT4 had RR which make more noise than stamped rockers. GM even went to a composite valve cover to help minimize the noise. The LT4 KM has a higher sensor threshold to compensate for this noise so the PCM does not interpret it as knock and pull timing

The part is not made anymore so ebay, etc may have some used ones at high $...or there may be "clones" out there now that are crap but I personally don't know of that.

 

I HAVE 1.6rr 3/8 STUDS I HAVE BEEN DOING SOME READING AND FROM WHAT IVE BEEN SEEING IS THAT THE MODULE IS LESS SENSITIVE THAT THE LT1

 

which is why many, including me, use the LT4 KM when going to a "roller" rocker. Apparently GM saw the need with the LT4 motor

 

I have the noisey 1.6 Promags and composite valve covers, but no LT4 module. I know I have knock desensitizing via MadZ28...

 

Two different approaches to the problem of knock retard....

The LT4KM is a filter, that filters out a specific noise signature (Crane Gold roller rockers) without reducing the knock system's protection to other knock related noises.

"Desensitizing" in the tune (or using resistors in the circuit) attempts to reduce response to false knock by reducing the response and range of response to ALL knock, reducing overall protection to some degree.

 

Well now i just dont know what is a good idea ?

 

Why do you feel you need the LT4 knock module? Do you have any evidence of false knock? It wouldn't be a likely problem on what appears to be a basically stock engine. There is no performance gain from the LT4KM, other than eliminating false knock.

You can determine if you have knock retard by using scan software and data logging the PCM. If you do have knock retard, the first step is to determine if it is real, of false. You can download free data logging software, written specifically for the OBD-1 LT1's here:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/

All you need to supply is the cable. Note the cautions in the discussion regarding the risk of building your own cable using cheap Chinese components - they are proving unreliable recently.

 

thanks im gonna purchase one off ebay it comes with a red river tuner is this any good ?

 

no i have no knock i just been reading a little bit and i think... THINK i read that
when the car warms up it starts to retard timing ?

 

Any retard due to warmup would be based on a programmed table in the PCM. The knock sensor/knock module would not prevent that from happening. The knock sensor is a small piezo microphone, tuned to respond to the actual sound of knock (detonation).

From my own scanning, I have seen about 3° of reduction in spark advance when the inlet air temp (IAT) reached ~140° F. The person who wrote the LT1_Edit software indicated he did not see the samereduced advance when he used his simulator to elevate the IAT signal. Maybe GaryDoug can test that. The IAT sensor will seriously heat soak in its stock location, particularly when sitting in traffic on a hot day. Relocating the IAT sensor closer to the filter eliminated the loss of advance for me.

 

Ok I also read about relocating the IAT I will have to do this bc when my car gets to the 180f it run like a totally different car, like on my way home today it started to idle at 600 rpm in D and if I put it in N it will boost up to about 750Rpm I feel I have some serious problems with this car right now. Even if I mash on the pedal it will break the tires sometimes and then sometimes it won't when the car is hot

 

Coolant temp sensor (one for the PCM in the water pump housing) may be a problem. If the sensor is telling the PCM the engine is cold, the PCM elevates the idle temp. Could possibly be a problem with the sensor accuracy or the harness wiring. This is another check you can make with the scanning software. The gauge sensor is a different one in a different location (driver side head), so it would not show a faulty coolant temp sensor for the PCM. If the PCM thinks the engine is cold, it's going to run a richer A/F mixture, which could reduce performance if the engine was really at 180*F.