Ok, last week coming home from kilkare my tranny went out.
Basically the pressureplate wouldn't disengage.

So we figured it was the slave cylinder.
So I got a new one.

After much trouble from a seemably easy to remove rolling pin I got the old one off.
Then how to bleed it? There doesn't seem to be any bleed valve on it, so I simply let the fluid drip from the line thinking maybe its bleeding.
Instead it seems it was dripping because air was going in as it dripped out.

So anyway, I filled the slave with brake fluid and installed it.
Go to push the clutch and there is ablsolutely no pressure.

So obviously there is air in the lines...a lot of air.

Later I was at the kettering cruize in (my first chance to go there ever) and met a few F-body guys who were pretty nice.
I also met a guy I knew from Wright State, and he told me that if I pumped the piston on the slave cyl it should pump all the air out.

It gave me hope so I hurried home and did so.
I pumped and pumped the bloody thing for an eternity, and it seemed to do little good.
The fluid dropped maybe an inch from the top of the resevoir, but I can still *feel* plenty of air when I pump it.

So...(and finally the question)
is there any way to bleed this stupid freaking, supposed to be simple, slave cyl so I can get my stinking car running?
Thanks for any help!
Adam

 

Anyone?

 

I thought you could have done it by loosening up the screw, and have someone push the clutch to the floor. Close the screw and let off the clutch. Fill the resevoir, and repeat.

 

Pushing the piston in by hand is the way to bleed it. Make sure you have the reservoir cap off to let the air out.

You probably just need to keep doing it. You may want to reattach the slave to the clutch fork/bellhousing and push the pedal in a few times first. To get any air out of the MC.

 

Do not press the clutch with the slave cylinder out of the clutch, first thing, there is no bleeder screw, it is a closed system. The only way to bleed it (way i did it) was to let it gravity bleed and leave it for alittle bit, and pump the rod with the master cap off. THEN cap the master, and line up the rod with the form indention and push, and push hard! What you are doing is pushing the ball at the end of the slave into the fork. push until you cant go anymore, and then put the nuts on. It WILL be hard, so dont be afraid to push, ALSO make sure the ball at the end of the slave is in the fork cradle. Good?

 

Thanks for the advice guys.

Although I have allready done all that (in seperate steps).

When I first got it togeather Bill told me to pump the clutch pedal to get the air out, so I did that for a good while.
It didn't do any good.

Then I got the advice of pumping the slave.
Did that for a long time, and it didn't seem to do much good.

I also knew that you werent supposed to push the clutch pedal when the slave is out.

And I learned the hard way that you have to have the cap off. I initially tried it with it off, and then decided to try it with it on just in case. Well there is a small hole in the top of the cap, and aparantly when you pump the piston it shoots brake fluid out that hole. So I didn't realize it was shooting brake fluid out untill some dripped down on me. Aparantly it shot all the way up to the hood fiber stuff and half soaked it

So, I guess I will just keep at it....and at it....and at it...

Well anyway thanks, I hope it works!

 

1) Fill Reservoir and leave cap off
2) Take the slave off.
3) Push out pin on slave.
4) Pull out hose from slave and let it drain until steady stream is coming out. Have someone watch the reservoir and add more if needed. DO NOT LET IT RUN OUT. This should force all the air out of the line.
5) Pop hose back into the slave and insert pin.
6) Now, hold the slave with the shaft pointing down towards the ground and SLOWLY push in shaft a few inches and slowly let it back out. Have someone watch the reservoir for air bubbles while you are doing this. Continue to do this until they do not see any more bubbles in reservoir. It can take about 10 to 15 times of pushing in and letting out. Key here is no bubbles.
7) Reattach slave to tranny. Make sure it is in correctly. This is where that plastic strap helps to hold the shaft in on a new slave unit. But I am sure that you already broke that when you put it in before. The strap is meant to brake the first time that you push in the clutch.
8) Now get inside car and pump the clutch pedal SLOWLY about 10 to 15 times. Have someone watch for any bubbles. There shouldn't be any and the pedal should be nice and firm.
9) Put cap back on reservoir. Start car and try shifting.
10) Check for leaks.
11) Done.

It really is an easy procedure. I just replaced mine on my 1996 Trans Am. It took about 30 minutes to do and I had never replaced one before.

Good luck.

 

do it JUST LIKE HE SAID

 

Also, make sure you grease that rounded plastic tip of the slave cylinder rod, since you probably wiped it off by pumping it and make sure the master cylinder is full when you are done and put the cap on.

 

Thanks for the detailed instructions Zepp.

HOWEVER when I initially had the line disconnected from the slave, the resevoir was full, but the line wasn't draining really.
I mean it was slowly dripping, but there was certainly no stream (which is what I was expecting).

I didn't have the chance to do anything yesterday, but I will now go out and give it another try.

 

Ok, just pulled the slave cyl off the line again, and nothing is coming out.

I mean maybe a few drops came out but not much(I have it drainging into a bucket).

It would seem it is cloged, exept when I pump the slave piston (when it was on) the fluid in the resovoir goes up and down.
So it seems not to be clogged.

What should I try next???

Would pumping the clutch possibly shove the fluid down through the line?

 

Dolby,

It sounds like the line is clogged or something. With the reservoir full and the line disconnected from the slave, mine drained the reservoir empty in a minute or two. It had a small but steady stream coming out.

I am sorry but I don't know how you can unclog the line. There isn't a crap sitting in the reservoir blocking the hole is there?

I know that GM sells the whole Master/Slave assy. together as a sealed unit only. You might end up having to go this route if you can't get it unplugged.

 

Ok...now I feel like a complete idiot.

Earlier today just before leaving work I go to close the hood.
For the first time the sun in shining inside the engine bay area.

I had the cap off, however there was that black rubber cone sitting inside that I never removed.
I always thought that was part of it, and the fluid went in from there.
Once I removed it I realized it was sealed, which is why the fluid never lowered from it when I put it in.

I didn't have a chance to finish the job, but I put a bit of fluid in and it started to come out the bottom, so I will finish tomarrow morning.

Thanks for your help...I just wish I would have realized that black thing didn't have a hole in the bottom earlier.

 

Don't worry about it. This is how you learn. I am learning more and more every day. I just replaced my motor and put in a NEW 383 Stroker. Talk about a learning experience.

I have learned so much in the last few months. I had never done anything on my car other than basic preventative maint. stuff before.

The best way to learn is by getting in there and just doing it. There are also a bunch of great people on here willing to help you out or just answer your questions.

Go for it!!!

 

Ok....new problem now...

I got it bled and got it togeather and did all the steps.
I pumped the slave till all the air was out, and put it back togeather.

Now there is lots of pedal pressure, but the pressure plate seems to still not be disengaging.

So is it the Master Cyl?
The only thing that makes me wonder is before when there was air in the line there was no pedal pressure, and now there is plenty. So that would suggest (to me) that the Master is actually pushing on the slave.

When I pushed on the clutch fork it wouldn't moove so I would guess it is not broken...

What else could it be?