LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

LT1 Rebuild questions

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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 11:20 AM
  #1  
Z28Horn's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Appleton WI
LT1 Rebuild questions

Hey guys, I've been doing a lot of thinking. What I have for a plan is to swap my LT1 and 4L60E into my 91 formula. The motor has 198,000 miles and runs low 13's all day long. My question is, if i were to do this should i at least get the rings and bearings replaced? I'm on a reeeaaaalyyyy tight budget here. How much would the breakdown in parts and labor be if i brought it to a shop? I'm having the transmission rebuilt. I'm going for the cheapest/best way for my situation right now until i can afford a complete shortblock. Another question is where could i get a used cheap, low mile short block if possible? Thanks in advance guys, appreciate it.

Zach Horn
A.C.S.
Old Sep 2, 2005 | 02:14 PM
  #2  
blackztpi's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Indiana
Re: LT1 Rebuild questions

as much of a major PITA it is to get an lt1 running in a 3rd gen, i wouldn't do it without a complete rebuild. 198,000 probably wont last long if you are racing it. if you are on that tight of a budget, don't even do anything yet. there's all kinds of hidden costs in any project.
Old Sep 2, 2005 | 04:06 PM
  #3  
ZMAN Z28's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Minneapolis
Re: LT1 Rebuild questions

Yep, as the other said, there are quite a few hidden costs that add up pretty quick. I tore mine apart and just did rings and bearings. The machine shop bill was about 700 in labor. I assembeld the motor myself. I just pulled my oil pan last night to find bearing chunks in my pan. The #4 main bearing (bottom half) failed. It did not spin. That explains why my oil had a gold film to it. The bearing had a little babbit left on the outsides and the inside was totally wiped away. The crank is ruined. The other mains I inspeced were in great shape. The rod bearings were good. #1, and 2 had minor wiping but I think that was because I re used the rods. I heard they get a little obb long shaped. But the machine shop machined new bolts in them, and they said they looked fine. But my rod clearences were 21 thousandths side to side. So I won't ever rebuild again as cheap as I can, I am going to end up spending more in the long run. I am probably only one of the few that has problems, but it sucks being one of the few. Do you feel lucky. I only had 107,000 miles originally. I owned the car from day 1.

ZMAN
Old Sep 2, 2005 | 06:46 PM
  #4  
yournamehere's Avatar
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 131
From: valley of hell
Re: LT1 Rebuild questions

Originally Posted by ZMAN Z28
Yep, as the other said, there are quite a few hidden costs that add up pretty quick. I tore mine apart and just did rings and bearings. The machine shop bill was about 700 in labor. I assembeld the motor myself. I just pulled my oil pan last night to find bearing chunks in my pan. The #4 main bearing (bottom half) failed. It did not spin. That explains why my oil had a gold film to it. The bearing had a little babbit left on the outsides and the inside was totally wiped away. The crank is ruined. The other mains I inspeced were in great shape. The rod bearings were good. #1, and 2 had minor wiping but I think that was because I re used the rods. I heard they get a little obb long shaped. But the machine shop machined new bolts in them, and they said they looked fine. But my rod clearences were 21 thousandths side to side. So I won't ever rebuild again as cheap as I can, I am going to end up spending more in the long run. I am probably only one of the few that has problems, but it sucks being one of the few. Do you feel lucky. I only had 107,000 miles originally. I owned the car from day 1.

ZMAN
Damn ! All that work.
If you don't rebuild, what are you going to do ?
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