Hey everyone! Jeff (GoFast908Z) was kind enough to let me use his thing here to post my questions.

Ok, you LT1 pros, can someone give me a breakdown on the pros/cons of the years of the LT1 camaros? I'm looking to buy one.

Specifically looking for a 93-97 Z28 Vert, red. As low miles as possible, like one of those "I can't believe it only has x-many miles!" kind of cars, ya know?

Aside from me searching all over the internet to find a car (for now) ....can you guys let me know about some problem areas and things to look out for, for these earlier cars?

Oh and this isn't going to be a car I mod. Gonna leave it stock except for springs/shocks and a catback, thats all.

Thanks!

-Jason (Jeff's friend)

ps, i would have searched...but i don't really know what to ask...sorry Mod.

 

Here's the basic history of the LT1, sourced from http://www.hpsalvage.com/lt1.htm

'92 - '93 GM's generation II engine, the LT1, was introduced in '92 in the corvette and was rated at 300hp. In 93 the new 4th gen F-body arrived with the LT1 rated at 275hp. There are some significant differences between the new engine and earlier small blocks. Among them are the opti-spark distributor located on the front of the engine behind the gear driven water pump and crank balancer. The block, heads, timing cover, water pump, intake manifold and accessory brackets are not interchangeable with the earlier smallblocks. Engine mounts and the bellhousing pattern remain the same. There were early and later versions of the aluminum head. The early head had a casting number of 10128374 and the later head had a casting number of 10128649.
The LT1 is reverse flow cooled meaning the water flows through the heads first then the block, instead of through the block and then the heads as is standard. Reverse flow cooling is a function of engine design and does not require a special radiator. An overflow tank is necessary to ensure there is no air in the system.
There are some differences between LT1's. The Corvette got 4 bolt mains and Aluminum heads. The F-body cars got 2 bolt mains and aluminum heads. The '94 - '96 Buick Roadmaster, Cadillac Fleetwood, Chevrolet Caprice, police cars and the Impala SS got the 5.7L with 2 bolt mains and cast iron heads and was rated at 265hp. There was also a 4.3L LT1 available in the big cars which is indistinguishable from the 5.7L, except for the different casting number and 4.3 cast into the top of the block just ahead of the bellhousing flange.

'94 Sequential Port Injection introduced this year. The new computer has a PROM that is not removable but can be reprogrammed. A mass airflow sensor was added to work with the map sensor still in use.

'95 A drain tube was added to the distributor to remove condensation buildup. The distributor has a new electrical connector which is not compatible with the earlier harnesses. The distributor drive was enlarged and will not interchange with '92 - '94 LT1s.

'96 The LT1 picked up 10 extra HP in the F-body cars with the addition of a second catalytic converter. OBD II makes its debut this year. A Crank Position Sensor is added. The LT4 is introduced as an option in the Corvette only and was rated at 330hp. A few of the supertuners offered special editions of the F-body cars with LT4's in them apart from the factory.

'97 The last year for the LT1 and available only in the F-body cars. The new C5 or fifth generation Corvette came equipped with the new third generation smallblock; an all new, all aluminum 5.7L with no resemblance to the 1st or 2nd generation small blocks.


I'm by far, not a guru of the LT1, but I've owned a few and researched the f-bodies like crazy. From my understanding, here are SOME of the pro's and cons.

1993 has an older GM P-ROM and are less sophisticated, but the emissions are more easily manipulated, eg. removal of AIR, EGR, etc.

1993-1994 share the unvented opti, which is prone to failure, but 1994 steps up to OBD-1 ECM

1995 has the vented opti, which is still prone to failure, but not so much as the earlier models.

1996-1997 models have an OBD-2 ECM, which is harder to diagnose without a scanner, but they picked up an extra catalytic converter and have an extra 10 HP than the earlier models.

All model years are prone to the water pump failing, which in turn causes the opti-spark to fail, as well as head gaskets if water pump isn't caught in time. These two components usually go around 80-100K miles. So replace these early in order to save the engine from catastrophic failure.

Also, the A4's are junk. Depending on the past life of the vehicle, they may be out by 50K miles...may last over 100K before needing a rebuild, but the 95 I owned went through the stock tranny and 3 rebuilt trannies within 40K miles.

The T-56's are prone to failure as well...synchros go out anywhere between 50-150K miles depending on how the car was treated.

That's all I can think of right now, but there's a lot more. Maybe somebody else can add more to the post. Hope it helps, and good luck with your LT1 purchase.

Paul

 

Can I be the first to put $50 down that you'll break that promise?

I guess it doesn't really matter for you...but I would say '95 is probably the best year, mainly for the vented opti, plus it retains OBD-I...

 

Take it for what ya will, my 88k mile A4 has survived 300+ track passes, most in some type of 12 second timeslip with 1.6-1.7 60' times.

I have a TransGo stage 2 shift kit in there along with a 3200 stall and a cooler, other than that, it's bone stock.

So they're not *that* bad.

 

4L60E is a good transmission. Don't believe everything you hear.

If your not going to mod it there really isn't anything to watch out for as long as you are informed about what the "OPTI" is, and don't mind searching for misses everyonce in a while.

 

I assume since you refer to LT1 that you are looking for the V-8. Otherwise, Id suggest getting a V-6 since you are likely to find a cherry, late-model F-body Vert in a 6 cyl. much more readily and for a good price.

Then, since you aren't concerned with power, you can save gas, insurance money and still look good. Then if you are so inclined, you can add NOs or add a V-8 later.

If you just get a stock, vert., you are just going to get your A$$ handed to you anyway, so what's the point? JMHO

 

Some last, some don't. Just be wary when test-driving or looking at the vehicle. Check the fluid and see if it's smells/looks burnt and make sure the level is within operating range.

 

Yes I am looking for a LT1 (V8). Never said i wasn't concerned with power. 275-285 hp ain't bad stock. Its not gonna be a daily car or anything, just something to cruise in once or twice a week.

As far as racing....not gonna do it. Not in that car. I'm sure it'll still eat rice If i was so inclinded. But my other car has more than enough power for me if I wanted to race.

Thanks again for the help!

-Jason (Jeff's friend)

 

t-56 can take a beating and keep on ticking.

 

btw, i'm only gonna buy a manual trans. car

Thanks
-Jason (Jeff's friend)

 

Stock LT1's are not that fast... low 14's... Remember, they are pigs. And don't be so sure about that 'rice', you might get embarassed.

 

Good man Jeff, manual is the only way to go. But I agree the 4L60E(automatic # if you didn't know) is a damn good tranny. If I were you I would look for as late model as possible. Ideally if you could get a 97 you would love it, 97 is when the interior changed to a much better(looking and functioning) dash/console setup....while still keeping the LT1 front end, which IMO is the best, end point: 97 is the year, its priceless

 

Actually, this is Jason. Jeff is GoFast908Z, he's letting me use this to post my questions. I love manual! Jeff has gone through a couple auto transmissions. After the 3rd swap its pretty funny! (he's gonna hate me for that hahaha).

Thanks
-Jason (Jeff's friend)

 

Yea my bad, need to learn to read. But ya remember the T56s are not really bulletproof either, if your not going to be rodding on it all the time, the auto will suprise you on its duarbility - and it seems the t56 is more expensive to rebuild. But in the end, the t56 is going to have the most duability and longevity of the 2 for sure.

 

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