LT1 motor removal
LT1 motor removal
Time to pull my LT1 out. I blew a head gasket, so I decided to install a new CC305 cam, shorty headers and a new clutch at the same time. To do so I might as well pull the entire motor and freshen the bottom end as well... 2 Questions:
Can I pull the motor alone or is it not worth the hassle of disconnecting the tranny first? (M6)
Does the air conditioning system need to be bled or will I be able to leave the system installed and charged? I'm definitely pulling the radiator but would like to avoid dealing with the AC if possible.
Finally, with the CC305 cam, and keeping the car emmissions-legal, should I bother getting the heads and/or intake ported? It sounds like the stock setup flows enough for this cam...
Thanks in advance.
Can I pull the motor alone or is it not worth the hassle of disconnecting the tranny first? (M6)
Does the air conditioning system need to be bled or will I be able to leave the system installed and charged? I'm definitely pulling the radiator but would like to avoid dealing with the AC if possible.
Finally, with the CC305 cam, and keeping the car emmissions-legal, should I bother getting the heads and/or intake ported? It sounds like the stock setup flows enough for this cam...
Thanks in advance.
I pulled my engine without the trans. Not too horrible. I had the heads and intake off by the time I pulled it so I had no clearence issues. Radiator was removed and I did the A/C Delete, so i cant answer that. I think it would be much easier if you took it out, and I cant remember 100% but I think the condensor comes out at the same time as the radiator. So you may HAVE to disconect that part of the A/C system.
Can I pull the motor alone or is it not worth the hassle of disconnecting the tranny first? (M6)
Does the air conditioning system need to be bled or will I be able to leave the system installed and charged?
and keeping the car emmissions-legal, should I bother getting the heads and/or intake ported?
Go to www.tpis.com and get the Happy Hooker. Remove the radiator, A/C, power steering pump and generator, bolt the Happy Hooker to your intake, then pull the whole thing out the top, including tranny, in one piece. Go back in the same way.
I wish somebody had given me that advice before I started. You can even leave the exhaust manifolds/headers on when coming out and bolt them up on the way back in, once the engine is in postition, but before you lower it. No K-member hassle. No "I sure wish I had a lift." The Happy Hooker lets you manuever the engine around like you need to. One tip, I removed the plastic cowl on the body extension in front of the wipers, above the firewall. That is a really easy and quick way to get an extra inch or two of clearance that helps if you have the whole engine assembled.
Having only figured this out on the way back in, I could now do a drivetrain R&R on my Z in about 3-4 hours, completely by myself, no help at all. That's for both coming out and going back in. No lift needed, just a decent hoist.
It's way worth the $40.
I wish somebody had given me that advice before I started. You can even leave the exhaust manifolds/headers on when coming out and bolt them up on the way back in, once the engine is in postition, but before you lower it. No K-member hassle. No "I sure wish I had a lift." The Happy Hooker lets you manuever the engine around like you need to. One tip, I removed the plastic cowl on the body extension in front of the wipers, above the firewall. That is a really easy and quick way to get an extra inch or two of clearance that helps if you have the whole engine assembled.
Having only figured this out on the way back in, I could now do a drivetrain R&R on my Z in about 3-4 hours, completely by myself, no help at all. That's for both coming out and going back in. No lift needed, just a decent hoist.
It's way worth the $40.
Cool, I lived at Foxpoint (e.Moline) and worked at Derbytech.
Ill be out in a few weeks as well.. nothing but CC306, lt1 with boltons.
Then up to IL dyno Center in port byron, and maybe cordova ...dunno yet.
Ill be out in a few weeks as well.. nothing but CC306, lt1 with boltons.
Then up to IL dyno Center in port byron, and maybe cordova ...dunno yet.
check this out too. It is easy out the bottom as well
http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
Originally posted by MyZb383
Go to www.tpis.com and get the Happy Hooker. Remove the radiator, A/C, power steering pump and generator, bolt the Happy Hooker to your intake, then pull the whole thing out the top, including tranny, in one piece. Go back in the same way.
I wish somebody had given me that advice before I started. You can even leave the exhaust manifolds/headers on when coming out and bolt them up on the way back in, once the engine is in postition, but before you lower it. No K-member hassle. No "I sure wish I had a lift." The Happy Hooker lets you manuever the engine around like you need to. One tip, I removed the plastic cowl on the body extension in front of the wipers, above the firewall. That is a really easy and quick way to get an extra inch or two of clearance that helps if you have the whole engine assembled.
Having only figured this out on the way back in, I could now do a drivetrain R&R on my Z in about 3-4 hours, completely by myself, no help at all. That's for both coming out and going back in. No lift needed, just a decent hoist.
It's way worth the $40.
Go to www.tpis.com and get the Happy Hooker. Remove the radiator, A/C, power steering pump and generator, bolt the Happy Hooker to your intake, then pull the whole thing out the top, including tranny, in one piece. Go back in the same way.
I wish somebody had given me that advice before I started. You can even leave the exhaust manifolds/headers on when coming out and bolt them up on the way back in, once the engine is in postition, but before you lower it. No K-member hassle. No "I sure wish I had a lift." The Happy Hooker lets you manuever the engine around like you need to. One tip, I removed the plastic cowl on the body extension in front of the wipers, above the firewall. That is a really easy and quick way to get an extra inch or two of clearance that helps if you have the whole engine assembled.
Having only figured this out on the way back in, I could now do a drivetrain R&R on my Z in about 3-4 hours, completely by myself, no help at all. That's for both coming out and going back in. No lift needed, just a decent hoist.
It's way worth the $40.
My A/C didn't work so we didn't have to worry about bleeding anything, take the intake manifold off, radiator out (we couldn't get the condensor to come out), take off alternator bracket, power steering pump, and water pump off before taking it out, so you will have as much room as possible.
I left the manifolds on mine and disconnected the tranny.
I left the manifolds on mine and disconnected the tranny.
What I'm saying is that with the Happy Hooker, I was able to assemble the entire engine, including heads, intake, plugs, plugwires, waterpump, exhaust manifolds.......the whole enchilada, then painlessley bolt on the clutch and tranny, then drop the whole assembly in from the top *absolutely solo, by myself* with no hassles.
Piece of cake doing it this way. Hey, do it the hard way if you guys want to. I did it the hard way on the way out. Not again for me.
Piece of cake doing it this way. Hey, do it the hard way if you guys want to. I did it the hard way on the way out. Not again for me.
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