LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

LT1 motor removal

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Old May 18, 2004 | 04:10 PM
  #1  
StumpDeisel's Avatar
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From: Westchester, NY
LT1 motor removal

Time to pull my LT1 out. I blew a head gasket, so I decided to install a new CC305 cam, shorty headers and a new clutch at the same time. To do so I might as well pull the entire motor and freshen the bottom end as well... 2 Questions:

Can I pull the motor alone or is it not worth the hassle of disconnecting the tranny first? (M6)

Does the air conditioning system need to be bled or will I be able to leave the system installed and charged? I'm definitely pulling the radiator but would like to avoid dealing with the AC if possible.

Finally, with the CC305 cam, and keeping the car emmissions-legal, should I bother getting the heads and/or intake ported? It sounds like the stock setup flows enough for this cam...

Thanks in advance.
Old May 18, 2004 | 04:26 PM
  #2  
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I pulled my engine without the trans. Not too horrible. I had the heads and intake off by the time I pulled it so I had no clearence issues. Radiator was removed and I did the A/C Delete, so i cant answer that. I think it would be much easier if you took it out, and I cant remember 100% but I think the condensor comes out at the same time as the radiator. So you may HAVE to disconect that part of the A/C system.


Old May 18, 2004 | 04:44 PM
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Can I pull the motor alone or is it not worth the hassle of disconnecting the tranny first? (M6)
If you are taking it out the bottom (like I did) then I would take them out together and separate them once youve got it out.
Does the air conditioning system need to be bled or will I be able to leave the system installed and charged?
I discharged mine
and keeping the car emmissions-legal, should I bother getting the heads and/or intake ported?
You shouldnt have a problem with that cam and P&P heads. Just get a good dyno tune and you should be fine.
Old May 18, 2004 | 04:54 PM
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Magnum? QC? Do I know you?
Old May 18, 2004 | 05:17 PM
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Go to www.tpis.com and get the Happy Hooker. Remove the radiator, A/C, power steering pump and generator, bolt the Happy Hooker to your intake, then pull the whole thing out the top, including tranny, in one piece. Go back in the same way.

I wish somebody had given me that advice before I started. You can even leave the exhaust manifolds/headers on when coming out and bolt them up on the way back in, once the engine is in postition, but before you lower it. No K-member hassle. No "I sure wish I had a lift." The Happy Hooker lets you manuever the engine around like you need to. One tip, I removed the plastic cowl on the body extension in front of the wipers, above the firewall. That is a really easy and quick way to get an extra inch or two of clearance that helps if you have the whole engine assembled.

Having only figured this out on the way back in, I could now do a drivetrain R&R on my Z in about 3-4 hours, completely by myself, no help at all. That's for both coming out and going back in. No lift needed, just a decent hoist.

It's way worth the $40.
Old May 18, 2004 | 05:37 PM
  #6  
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Magnum? QC? Do I know you?
not sure, but prob not. I havent been active in any clubs or cruises. Once I get the 383 done (hopefull mid June) I'll be running at Cordova.
Old May 18, 2004 | 06:32 PM
  #7  
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Cool, I lived at Foxpoint (e.Moline) and worked at Derbytech.

Ill be out in a few weeks as well.. nothing but CC306, lt1 with boltons. Then up to IL dyno Center in port byron, and maybe cordova ...dunno yet.
Old May 18, 2004 | 07:32 PM
  #8  
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check this out too. It is easy out the bottom as well

http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
Old May 18, 2004 | 08:26 PM
  #9  
S8ER95Z's Avatar
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From: Quad Cities
Originally posted by MyZb383
Go to www.tpis.com and get the Happy Hooker. Remove the radiator, A/C, power steering pump and generator, bolt the Happy Hooker to your intake, then pull the whole thing out the top, including tranny, in one piece. Go back in the same way.

I wish somebody had given me that advice before I started. You can even leave the exhaust manifolds/headers on when coming out and bolt them up on the way back in, once the engine is in postition, but before you lower it. No K-member hassle. No "I sure wish I had a lift." The Happy Hooker lets you manuever the engine around like you need to. One tip, I removed the plastic cowl on the body extension in front of the wipers, above the firewall. That is a really easy and quick way to get an extra inch or two of clearance that helps if you have the whole engine assembled.

Having only figured this out on the way back in, I could now do a drivetrain R&R on my Z in about 3-4 hours, completely by myself, no help at all. That's for both coming out and going back in. No lift needed, just a decent hoist.

It's way worth the $40.
I second this! I have yet to use it, but It would be a lifesaver! Mine was easy because I have nothing on the car (radiator, etc) otherwise it would have been extremely difficult without this tool.
Old May 18, 2004 | 10:27 PM
  #10  
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My A/C didn't work so we didn't have to worry about bleeding anything, take the intake manifold off, radiator out (we couldn't get the condensor to come out), take off alternator bracket, power steering pump, and water pump off before taking it out, so you will have as much room as possible.
I left the manifolds on mine and disconnected the tranny.
Old May 20, 2004 | 02:07 PM
  #11  
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From: Houston, TX
What I'm saying is that with the Happy Hooker, I was able to assemble the entire engine, including heads, intake, plugs, plugwires, waterpump, exhaust manifolds.......the whole enchilada, then painlessley bolt on the clutch and tranny, then drop the whole assembly in from the top *absolutely solo, by myself* with no hassles.

Piece of cake doing it this way. Hey, do it the hard way if you guys want to. I did it the hard way on the way out. Not again for me.
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