Did some research and found out a traditional SBC balancer install tool will not work on the LT1 due to the threaded stud not being long enough to fit through the balancer. Where can I get one for the LT1?

Thanks

P.S.
I know of all the other hammering and using the stock bolt methods to get the balancer on, but I'd rather have a tool to be able to do this w/ peace of mind.

 

Find a long bolt and a big washer. Tap it on enough so you get a decent thread catch, and screw it on with the bolt.

 

There is no need for this special tool that you speak of. Find a bolt that mimics the stock crank bolt but add about an inch to it. This will serve to pull the hub on far enough that you can then back it out...replace the it with the stock GM bolt and washer, and finish the install.

Just for the record--the hammering method will not be effective anyway. The amount of friction between the crank snout and the hub is HUGEEE.

 

This past weekend I rented one of those SBC kits from Autozone and sure enough, it won't work. Guess I'm just nervous about putting too much stress on the threads when drawing the hub on. So, I'm going to try to make my own puller by getting a bolt an inch or so longer than stock, thread on a nut close to the top, and then put a big washer on there that will cover the top of the hub. Get the hub on the snout and thread in your bolt/nut/washer half way in the crank snout. Then just use a socket to steady the bolt and a wrench to turn the nut to press the washer against the hub and it should go on...in theory .

 

In theory? I did this in real life.....all you need is a Grade 8 Bolt....any Sears Hardware will it. In fact I will even tell you that I believe the bolt needs to be a fine threaded 7/16"....they are like a buck fifty.

Thread it on, till the hub is on far enough that the stockbolt can finish the job. Thats all there is to it.

 

http://members.***.net/gmarengo/Misc/Misc.htm

Hey Brian there are all of the parts. He even tells you where to get the threaded rod. Use grade 8 nuts if you can especially for the nut that serves as the installer. The only difference I made was that I used a 1/2 socket that just fit inside the hub opening to get a lower area to push on the hub. The threaded rod will fit through the socket. Use the washers with the socket if you go that route.

I have never had a problem with this tool, I have had problems using the shorter bolt method, I thought I was going to strip out the end of the crank. A little thread material would come out when switching to a shorter bolt and the bolt threads looked okay on the bolt that was removed. After a while there's only so much material that can come out before it strips.

 

Thanks for all the replies.


That is pure greatness. I had thought about getting allthread to do something like this, but had the "Butthead" fizzled light bulb syndrome when trying to come up w/ a way to make it work due to not knowing where to buy allthread trust worthy enough for the job.
Just finished putting my order in.
Thanks Gary!