lankie_25

hey just wonderin how much it would be and what all would have to be done to make my lt1 a 383 stroker. I have 0 knowledge about this as I was considering an lt4 conversion but also found the 383 stroker interesting.

disco192

Id say save your money and dont do either. Get your heads ported, custom cam, bolt-ons, and tune. You can get bottom end to roughly 425 rwhp on stock cubes. I wouldnt go 383 unless you are doing a rebuild, then why not just buy a 3.75 crank.

How much power are you thinking about? You can do ~400 rwhp pretty cheap, but 500+ starts getting exponentially more expensive.

97WS6SCharged

Well, 500+ without a power adder is where things start getting expensive. Nitrous or FI will make that kinda power relatively inexpensive.

SS MPSTR

It really all depends on your budget, immediate goals/expectations, future goals/expectations, and how you primarily intend to use the car. You need to be brutally honest with yourself and mechanic when you contemplate these.

WS Sick

Look at it this way, if youre buildning a 383 basicly every component in your engine will need to be changed, the complete rotating assembly, along with block machining, and to take advantage of the cubes, you'll need better flowing heads and a propper camshaft with adjoining valvetrain parts, youre looking at 5thou plus. And if you don't farm out the work or find some good used parts it can get rough on the pocketbook.

I was able to find a lightly used rotating assembly for 800$ after machine work and magnafluxing everything to ensure the servicability of the parts, my shortblock alone was 1700$, this is with used rotating assembly. An easy 1000$ can be added there.
My heads were 1600$ I did the port work myself , but trueing up the gasket surfaces and puting the valve job I wanted. was an additional 180$. The valvetrain isnt cheap either (although I got parts on sale) cam was 208$, lifters 180$,pushrods were 89$, springs were 85$,retainers and keepers together (tit ret.)140$.
Rockers (comp steel) 250$,guideplates and ARP studs came twith the heads. Then fuel and air had to be addressed, t/b (went 52 mm ) 100$ (bored stock), Injectors (at least need 30#ers) 200$,fuel pump 140$ (255 lph in tank, racetronic).

If you don't have your exhaust done youre wasting your time with a stock exhaust and a 383. so another thou there.

See where this is going.

Unless yore motor is toast, I'd just do a top end job on your stocker, will save a few thousand.

But as a side note, since having this motor, I will never waste my time building a 350 for performance unless the rebuild is for someone that specificly requests it or class rules.