LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

ls1 brakes

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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 01:45 AM
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ls1 brakes

i thought about up-grading my brakes on my car and i'd like to get the ls1 up-grade. what does it take and how much does it cost for the brakes and to have a local shop do it? is it just for the front or all four? any info would be great and if anyone has a price for how much they spent for everything that'd be great too. does anything need to be done to the computer? don't know much about brakes, i thought about gettin slotted rotters...but i read on here to get ls1 stuff. any info is great thanks.
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 01:54 AM
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you need other parts like brake lines (short piece on each side) & spindles. The one draw back is I hear you can use skinnies in the front for those who go all out on drag, which isn't me ofcoarse.
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 01:57 AM
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you can or can't use skinnies?? and does anyone have a complete set up price? or should i just get drilled and slotted rotters? they look soooo sweet!
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 02:16 AM
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Originally posted by bunker
you need other parts like brake lines (short piece on each side) & spindles. The one draw back is I hear you can use skinnies in the front for those who go all out on drag, which isn't me ofcoarse.
HERE is everything you would need to do it..

YES you can use skinnies with these brakes.. My buddy has weld prostar 15x3 1/2's that fit just fine on his LS1 T/A
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 09:39 AM
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but what about the extended brake lines bunker was talkin about?
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 09:41 AM
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does anyone have an idea about how long the job should take? is it easy enough i could do it or should i let a shop do it?? thanks
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 10:23 AM
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You don’t really need to extend the lines. Just bend the bracket down (where the rubber brake line connects to the car) so the line doesn’t kink at full lock.

The job is easy. If you are relatively inexperienced, give yourself a full day. (it should only take 2-3hrs but you never know)


When you get the calipers, check your caliper guide pins to make sure they are not frozen.

You will need a fork for separating the ball-joints from the control arms. You can rent these from AutoZone for free of buy them for $10.

There is a step-by-step guide floating around here somewhere.
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 10:25 AM
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You can use the rubber lines from the LS1 brakes. You just gotta modify the hard line and bracket so they point out instead of up. It shuold look like this when it's done
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 10:28 AM
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instead of renting the picklefork, rent the 2 arm gear puller. The picklefork will rip the rubber boot off of the balljoint. The gear puller will remove it without damage (as shown in the service manual).
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 10:32 AM
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how about drilled and slotted rotters? i know a lotta guys hate them but they look so sexy! are those easy to put on? i think the ls1 brake job is too much for me...
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 10:33 AM
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Originally posted by Mikey97Z
instead of renting the picklefork, rent the 2 arm gear puller. The picklefork will rip the rubber boot off of the balljoint. The gear puller will remove it without damage (as shown in the service manual).
Good idea!

I should have done that
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 03:36 PM
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Originally posted by fstenuf
how about drilled and slotted rotters? i know a lotta guys hate them but they look so sexy! are those easy to put on? i think the ls1 brake job is too much for me...
Too much for you? Stop being a puss dude. It will cost you more to get some goofy cross-drilled slotted rotors crap than it will to do the LS1 upgrade... Then you can just go to autozone or any other parts store if you ever need new rotors and pick some up locally. The cross-drilled/slotted garbe rotors look like crap after you drive with them for a couple hundred miles anyways... Not worth it IMO
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