Alrite, when lowering your car I understand you need to get an adjustable panhard bar beacause the rear end shifts to one side. My question is which way will your rear shift? And with the bar do you make it longer or shorter than stock as a base point before you get it recentered by a shop. Can a shop recenter it with a rack?

 

Actually thats not true at all. You don't need an adj panhard rod, but if you want to center the rear, then you need one My car was driven around for years without an adjustable PH till i put one on.

You make the panhard rod shorter, maybe 1/2 of an inch but it was a long time ago. Since the panhard rod connect to the axle on the drivers side, and frame on psg side, your psg side tire will likely rub on the fender under full compression with the adj PH. Mine would rub when i hit an overpass on the highway above 80mph, or any other large rolling bump where you will bottom out your lowering springs and their shorter travel. To keep your tires intact(depending on what size you run) you will probably also need SLP jounce bump spacers ~30 bucks.

What is often overlooked that you do NEED on a lowered car is lower control arm relocation brackets. Actually again you don't need them if you don't care about wheelhop everytime you get on it from a stop, but IMO they are much more important than an ADJ PH.

-Brent

 

I got the Eibach Pro Kit and my rearend is pefect now. Some maro's come from the factory off. I mean bad too. When I got my 315's for the back I checked into it. I didn't even have to do a single adjustment. I got Pro Kit and 315's and they fit perfect in the weld.

 

Hey Brent, Don't you mean longer. If the rod is connected to the axle on driver side and the frame on the passenger side would'nt you have to make it longer to push the rear to the left (driver side). Right now my passenger side tire rubs the fender when hitting bumps. So I would have to make it a .5inch longer. Plus the car track's like crap on ruted highways. Thats from the rear right?

 

I'm pretty sure i meant shorter

It's a lil late to be thinking about this now, but i made up a diagram.
Suspension diagram

The PH bar is on a slight downward angle at stock ride hieght. It goes through an arcing motion with the pivot or center of the radius on the passenger side of the car. Therefore when you lower it the PH is close to horizontal at ride height. This means it is now further towards the driverside of the car. Since you are centering the rear the PH rod at resting height it needs to be shorter. Once it is shorter, upon compression it follows the arc and is actually closer to the passenger side of the car. Thus the rubbing on the psg side.

Picture of PH at normal lowered ride height. Nearly perfectly horizontal.

I take it you've lowered the car and now it's rubbing? Mine did not rub with the stock PH. That is because it was still going through the original arc of travel same as when it was stock ride height, you can just think of the lowering springs as adding weight to the rear of the car and compressing the suspension some. As soon as i centered the rear at resting height with the adj one by shortening it, then it rubbed on the psg side rear fender. I have 9.5 inch rims, while most people only have 9" so thats why i said you may get away with it.

Mine tracked like crap before and after the install. Thats from having wide tires and them not being flat to the curved road surface in the tire routs. On a flat surface it was fine before and after.

Like i said, it's late but thats how i remember it and its making sense to me now. Hope this is right and helps

Brent

EDIT*
I just noticed my psg fender extends down a little bit too low in figure 2. Also i should have made a 6th figure to show the jounce bump spacers limiting the travel slightly compared to figure 5 thus keeping the tire out of the fender. Oh yeah, it's not quite to scale