I was wondering if anyone of you guys have a budget build-up on what it would take to put an A4 LT1 in the low 13s on street tires, and no stall.

Here's what I have so far: Borla, Moroso CAI, 1LE elbow, Spohn LCA, LT4 KM. On the way: New tires, TB by-pass, TB airfoil.
Future plans for this year: 3.42 gears, aluminum driveshaft, 52mm TB [local swapmeet coming up], Pacesetter LT, Y-Pipe with cats, torque arm.

 

forget the 52mm tb.. it's not worth it to get down in the low 13's. drag radials will help( I know you want to run street tires, but it's much easier this way) and your biggest gain will be from a torque converter. A torque converter and headers should put you in the bottom 13's easily.

 

definately go for long tubes and good gear. a stall would be nice, but u can still manage without. i'd say your setup with long tubes and 3.42's should get you there. Hold off on the 52mm throttle body, as your gains will be minimal on a stock motor. you might also want to hold off on the aluminum driveshaft, as it is not a must for your build, however a good choice if u can get one cheap. I'd say to cap it off, get some good full roller rocker arms (1.6 ratio) with arp studs for strength. this will give you a little more airlflow to work with on a custom computer tune. yes, I'm leading you into pcmforless or madz28.com. for 80-100 bucks, u can get a good mail order tune from them. having a little more lift and airflow from the 1.6 rr's wil allow them to get a little more agressive. when my car was stock, they promised me 20hp gain from there tune with 1.6rr's. you should get your goal easily there. good luck

 

I was thinking exactly what they said as I read your post. Take the money you would spend on the driveshaft and throttle body and spend it on cam, valve springs and rockers. If not the cam, at least get the rockers and valve springs, they can be changed without taking any major components off the car. The exhaust mods are a good choice as are the gears. A shift kit for the tranny is also cheap and will pick up a little time as well. Weight reduction is another cheap way to cut some time off of your et.

 

What gears do you have now? If its 3.23's leave them, 2.73's I'd make the switch. Definately Longtubes, 1.6 RR's and supporting valvetrain, E-WP, sticky tires, and a Madwolf tune. That should get you around 105MPH and low 13's with traction. For a budget like I was on, buy everything you can used. I saved huge cash buying new and used off the board. I saved about $300 on headers, $100 on rockers, $25 on unlimited email tunes, $350 on a catback, plus more on non-performance items like wheels and such. Good luck and if you need any help let me know.

-Dustin-

 

if you already have 3.23s leave them, otherwise get the 3.42s or 3.73s. i would not do the TB and use the $ to get some drag radials. i would also wait on the headers and use the money to buy a torque converter. 60' time is the most important factor in getting a low ET.

 

I ran 12.9@104 w/ 1.77 60' on the stock motor. It had Hooker LT's, Vig3200, ET Streets, and all the other little mods.

 

What is the vig3200?

 

It is a torque converter.

For low 13's? My setup ran 13.1 on my first pass with it (broke on the second pass) and my traps were good for 12s. I would say exhaust, converter, and if money allows a cam, or n20 is always a cheap way for an extra second or more off.

The a4 guys can sometimes get ridiculous times just by getting traction. Look at some of the newer stock a4s with just a good tire. Scary.

 

Thanks setzer

 

TC's are huge, but seening as how he doesnt want to do a TC or use DR's, it will be tough getting in the low 13's without a sweet launch or going internal/power adder. Mine would see low 13's high 12's with a good 60', but since I am pulling 2.4's its a mid 13's car.

-Dustin-

 

Just wondering why you dont want stall converter? It's going to be difficult to get in low 13's. Like Kain said with headers, stall, good tires and basic bolt ons you can get into low 13's.

 

Unfortunetly my car has 2.73's. I don't want a stall just yet because I don't want to mess with the tranny unless neccessary and my car is going to be a daily driver for a while [until late fall].

 

I think some gears would be in order to replace those 2.73's. Even if you can find a 3.23 rear end you'd probably save a buck or two over install, etc.

-Dustin-

 

read my sig... im running low 13's with not that much stuff done. If i was you, id go with the long tubes, a cutout, gears (3.73's are perfect for autos), and mail order tuning from whomever you choose. i ran 13.2 on (old ***) drs and 13.3 on street tires. These are definately the most effective bolt ons out there.