Sorry about the suggestion. I didn't think you'd rev it that high(!?) It probably broke something going that high. I've just had cars before that wouldn't even rev and isolated the problem that way.

Hal

 

lol. no don't worry about it. it was my choice. I planed on redline being 7K anyway.

 

Maybe you will get lucky and the oil pressure loss did not do any permanent bearing damage.


As for installing a cracked dummy shaft someone was making billet replacements for them... or nos shafts are still available. Good luck I hope you don't have to go for "3 is the charm".

 

Shon Herron has billet drive housings for sale.

As for the schematic, the Alldata one posted is incorrect. Everyone knows that our oil pressure sensors have only one wire running to them and that goes to the gauge (and nowhere else).

 

Well I got the intake manifold off today. And the dummy drive was still seated fine (You can see the crack im talking about in one of the pictures. It did not cause any problems so far) the bolt was tight and the drive was all the way in, and in contact with the cam. The cam gear feels good from what I can feel with my finger without turning the crank, The oil drive gear looks great. The oil drive shaft looked fine but I pulled it out anyway, it didn't want to come out easy, I puled on it with a pliers and eventually got this (picture) the metal drive without the plastic part. Is it possible to get this whole shaft out threw this hole?. I could have swore I did it before and used a drill with the adapter to turn the oil pump.

I never had this shaft apart, It always came out with the plastic coupler (correct name?) attached.


So I guess next step will be to turn the oil pump with a drill and see what I get. I need to go rent the adapter from autozone, but do I need to get the plastic part out first?







best pic my crappy cam can get in the hole.

 

The oil pump priming tool works with the drive shaft in place. It fits on just like the oil pump drive gear would.

 

ok. I put the pump drive shaft back in and spun the pump with a drill. The pump itself is in good shape, it began moving oil around almost instantly. It flowed out of all the lifter bores. I was spinning the pump at 1500RPM with the drill (max speed for my 90*, the only drill I had that would fit). And i was making pressure. It registered just above the red line (when the pump is not turning, its just below the red line on the gauge, so it did move)

I would guess that since the cam gear was originally for a distributor that the oil pump (and distributor) spins in a 1/2 ratio to the crankshaft, since the plugs are fired every other revolution. so at idle (1000rpm) the pump is spinning at 500rpm correct? If that is the case then I should have a lot more pressure when the pump is spinning at 1500rpm.


One thing I did notice is there was a LOT of oil coming out of the these two ports (Circled in red)



Here is a video showing the oil coming out of those ports. This is defiantly to much oil correct?.. This must mean that a galley plug behind the cam gear has come out or is is leaking. Next step would be timing cover removal then. I have to remove the oil pan don't I , or at least lower it?.

 

There is your problem right there!.. the second rebuild I reused the old plugs, That was a mistake, expecially considering its only $10 for all new plugs. Sigh. Oh well. I got a new plug in there now. The timing set looks perfect but I cant find the original plug or any trace of it anywhere, my hope is that it dropped into the oil pan and it will sit there and not cause any problems, or maybe even come out when I drain oil some day. The pickup screen will prevent it from being sucked up.

 

Those are the ones I was refering to being tapped for pipe plugs on all my stuff. Its so cheap to do to avoid something exactly like this.

 

If your still in there, get a Melling(PN# IS-55E, Autozone...$6.99) oil pump drive shaft. Do away with the plastic coupler.


I know the plastic you were talking about was on the drive gear, but sooner or later the plastic coupler connecting drive to the pump will fail. I was very shocked at how brittle mine was when I pulled it out. It broke into pieces.

 

Even if the plastic coupler breaks, the shaft will not separate.

 

I would love to replace it, but when I pull the shaft out all I get is whats in the picture (post number 20). I was a little worried that I was going to lose the other half and have to take the oil pan off to straiten that situation out. I got it back in but not so sure I want to try again, it took quite a tug to get it out, and it was difficult to line back up to get it back in.

 

OK well I tapped the hole and used a 1/4 pipe thread plug in there. I used a lot of grease so prevent shavings in the galley. I then ran the pump and let oil spit out of there to get any remaining shavings out before I plugged it. I then got the timing chain back on and lined up (not easy with the valve train assembled and functional.


So now I need to get the timing cover back on. and I know this will not be easy. I took it off without lowering the oil and and it popped out fairly easily. Getting it back in is proving to be much more difficult. I may need to drop the pan a bit to get it back in. Anyone ever do it without lowering the pan?

Thanks

 

damn i wish i new that when i did mine

 

All is well with my problem. After I got the galley plugged and got it back together oil pressure is back to normal. got another 100 miles on the motor. I did rip the oil pan gasket since I didnt lower the pan AT ALL when removing or installing the timing cover. So I will need to lift the motor and replace the oil pan gasket. But for now its drivable, little leak every now and then. Thanks for all the help everyone.