Looking for opinion
#1
Looking for opinion
Ok here is the deal I have been planning to do AI CNC 200 head, intake and cam package. Well I just can't see myself getting to save that much money, there is always something ya know
So I am looking into the "LT4 hot cam kit" j/k
I want a decent proven set-up cam, valve springs, tune. I want to know exactly what I am going to need what springs, locks, retainers etc...
I would like to keep the project under $550 if possible
I already have the following (not intalled) Pro Mag 1.6, Trick flow Chromemoly stock length pushrods 7/16 studs, Holley 58 TB. Its a M6 with 3.73
So I am looking into the "LT4 hot cam kit" j/k
I want a decent proven set-up cam, valve springs, tune. I want to know exactly what I am going to need what springs, locks, retainers etc...
I would like to keep the project under $550 if possible
I already have the following (not intalled) Pro Mag 1.6, Trick flow Chromemoly stock length pushrods 7/16 studs, Holley 58 TB. Its a M6 with 3.73
Last edited by HottestZ28; 06-03-2008 at 08:29 AM.
#3
Ok I'll give my opinion, Question 1.. what is needed for LT4 Hot Cam KIT.. The kit comes with cam, roller rockers,springs, retainers, locks that all fit into a stock head setup using existing lifters, pushrods, valve covers. Not included are intake and front cover gasket sets. Since you already had your own 1.6 RR's and pushrods and studs you probably do not want the LT4 Kit. You only need a cam, springs, retainers, locks. You s/b able to pick those up for what you want to spend. IMO the lt4 Hot Cam is a mild handling, emission friendly, lower RPM power range cam for cruising/street/daily driving. If you're looking for high end power for the strip/street racing/track you will want to go more agressive and bigger. Keep on searching and reading the forums and make sure you pick a CAM that gives you want in the end run or you will not be happy.
#4
I guess you will need some guide plates if those are non-SA RRs.
If you want a stump-pulling cam with stock idle you can go with a baby cam like the Crane 104227. Go with the Crane 99892 spring kit.
The cam is an easy tune and a good low-end cam with stock-like characteristics.
If you want a little more, go with one of those quick opening, easy closing cams with a little around 214/227 duration on 112 with lift numbers around 525/550 with 1.6 RRs. JMHO
If you want a stump-pulling cam with stock idle you can go with a baby cam like the Crane 104227. Go with the Crane 99892 spring kit.
The cam is an easy tune and a good low-end cam with stock-like characteristics.
If you want a little more, go with one of those quick opening, easy closing cams with a little around 214/227 duration on 112 with lift numbers around 525/550 with 1.6 RRs. JMHO
#6
Under $550? Buy used and do all the labor yourself. I have a used LE1 cam that put down the numbers in my sig with ported stockers. Buying a used cam and new springs is going to put you close to your $550 and won't leave much room left over for gasket kit and other misc stuff that comes up during the install.
#8
I am just kidding about that
I just said that because most of the time everyone says they want a Hot Cam Kit and everyone says that you can get better with something else for the same price
I want something else that is in the price range of the hot cam kit
I just said that because most of the time everyone says they want a Hot Cam Kit and everyone says that you can get better with something else for the same price
I want something else that is in the price range of the hot cam kit
#9
Under $550? Buy used and do all the labor yourself. I have a used LE1 cam that put down the numbers in my sig with ported stockers. Buying a used cam and new springs is going to put you close to your $550 and won't leave much room left over for gasket kit and other misc stuff that comes up during the install.
I would consider buying a used cam but I prefer new only because I am ****. I really need a list of everything I need. I don't wanna take the heads off if possible save on the head gasket. The thing that sucks is I have a professionally powder coated intake and a set of 643 heads ready to send to AI but I can't seem to get the cash to get it done. This is just a band aid till I can get the cash to do what I want down the line.
#11
sell the 58mm tb for some cash. Its only going to help if you really need the additional airflow. Which with a cam only car its only going to hurt things.
there was a thread a while back(3-4months ago) with a guy who has one of AI customs putting down 360rwhp and 350rwtq. Hes got all the bolt ons and a port intake manifold but it the numbers are there.
If i was in your shoes I would do something like this. Than when you have
the money for the heads, do em along with the intake. Than pick up another 58mm tb and bolt the three on.(heads, intake, tb) It will save you time and money later. You ll have a 350/350 rw car and it will only require some bolting on to be 425rwhp.
You will be using your rockers and pushrods. You ll just need springs and hardware. I would look at their 226/234 and the bigger 230/238 depending on what you consider "tame" or "driveable"
there was a thread a while back(3-4months ago) with a guy who has one of AI customs putting down 360rwhp and 350rwtq. Hes got all the bolt ons and a port intake manifold but it the numbers are there.
If i was in your shoes I would do something like this. Than when you have
the money for the heads, do em along with the intake. Than pick up another 58mm tb and bolt the three on.(heads, intake, tb) It will save you time and money later. You ll have a 350/350 rw car and it will only require some bolting on to be 425rwhp.
You will be using your rockers and pushrods. You ll just need springs and hardware. I would look at their 226/234 and the bigger 230/238 depending on what you consider "tame" or "driveable"
#12
New roller cam and springs will cost more than $550. If you have to have new and plan on going with an AI setup then just call them and get them to spec you a cam that way you don't have to change it later when you save up the money for the heads.
Remove valve covers, rockers and pushrods. You might be able to use a magnetic pen and pull the lifters too depending on the heads you have. Pull the radiator, water pump, dampner, hub and front cover. Timing chain and cam retainer. Slide it out and put the new one in. Put it all back together with new timing gasket, water pump gasket.
Edit: Forgot about the spider holding the retainers down, you'll have to pull the intake too so add intake gaskets to the list.
Remove valve covers, rockers and pushrods. You might be able to use a magnetic pen and pull the lifters too depending on the heads you have. Pull the radiator, water pump, dampner, hub and front cover. Timing chain and cam retainer. Slide it out and put the new one in. Put it all back together with new timing gasket, water pump gasket.
Edit: Forgot about the spider holding the retainers down, you'll have to pull the intake too so add intake gaskets to the list.
Last edited by ulakovic22; 06-03-2008 at 04:05 PM.
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