Long tube install ?'s
07-18-2003, 11:50 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 891
Long tube install ?'s
i'm a little confused about getting my long tubes installed. do i take them to a shop and have some new o2 bungs welded on them and then have them installed? and where on the headers is the best? i have a 94Z so when i have my cat dropped will i have sensors back there also?
i got qouted a price from 400-500 bucks
i didn't even mention about getting spark plug wires re-ran or is where they are good enough? what about my brake lines,? are those ok or should i have them wrapped to help keep the heat out? any other info is greatly apprectiated, thanks
i got qouted a price from 400-500 bucks i didn't even mention about getting spark plug wires re-ran or is where they are good enough? what about my brake lines,? are those ok or should i have them wrapped to help keep the heat out? any other info is greatly apprectiated, thanks
07-18-2003, 02:05 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 825
The best place for the O2 bungs is in the header collectors. What kind of long tubes are they? Some already have bungs welded in the collectors. Since your car is OBDI you don't have to worry about anything when you remove the cat.
$400-$500 is pretty expensive for a header install unless that price includes a custom y-pipe. Even then I'd still do the header install yourself if you could.
$400-$500 is pretty expensive for a header install unless that price includes a custom y-pipe. Even then I'd still do the header install yourself if you could.
07-18-2003, 02:34 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,123
The install is not over compliated...just a PITA. Pretty straight foward.
Anyways $400 isn't that expensive. Most people say it's an 8 hour job....at $50 an hour that $400. Some places might charge a little extra due to how annoying it is.
Post in the local forum, see if anyone there can help you.
Anyways $400 isn't that expensive. Most people say it's an 8 hour job....at $50 an hour that $400. Some places might charge a little extra due to how annoying it is.
Post in the local forum, see if anyone there can help you.
07-18-2003, 02:51 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 891
the guy did say it would be an all day job. they are hooker ceramic coated long tubes. that price also included the removal of the air and the egr. he said something about the air belt and how the belt may need to be smaller after the he took it off. idk what the deal is there. and i need to go to another shop to have a custom pipe y-pipe made with out the cat. thanks for the help
07-18-2003, 03:24 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Zip Tie Island
Posts: 725
he said something about the air belt and how the belt may need to be smaller after the he took it off
Sounds to me you need to use the search button and do some reading on Hooker Longtube install.
That way this mechanic doesn't try to pull any crap with you.
I installed my own headers and it was a PITA, but if you are going to pay 400 bucks, at least have some prior knowledge that way the mechanic doesn't screw you..
If you do a search, you will find different websites with pics and step by step process on how to install the hookers.
07-18-2003, 04:38 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Madison Heights, MI
Posts: 2,356
Yeah first off...air belt? WTF is that? The only belts we have are for your seats and the serpentine belt. All he needs to do is remove EGR, AIR, the old exhaust manifolds/y-pipe and put your Hooker LTs in. Nothing else. It took me a long time to put my LTs on. It was easy, just time consuming and a little bit of a PITA.
07-18-2003, 04:55 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: boothwyn, PA
Posts: 443
Originally posted by 95TA8280
The install is not over compliated...just a PITA. Pretty straight foward.
Anyways $400 isn't that expensive. Most people say it's an 8 hour job....at $50 an hour that $400. Some places might charge a little extra due to how annoying it is.
Post in the local forum, see if anyone there can help you.
The install is not over compliated...just a PITA. Pretty straight foward.
Anyways $400 isn't that expensive. Most people say it's an 8 hour job....at $50 an hour that $400. Some places might charge a little extra due to how annoying it is.
Post in the local forum, see if anyone there can help you.
i wish i got mine done is anywhere close to 8 hours it took me 4 to get the old stuff off but i guess with a lift its alot easier
07-19-2003, 06:54 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MN,USA
Posts: 1,540
It took me 22 hours on my dual cat car to remove and install my headers. Dual cat cars are a big PITA, but it's still a pretty easy job. It just takes time. I think you should just do it yourself and save the cash. There are many install guides floating around on the net that could help you a lot. And all you need are simple hand tools.
07-19-2003, 07:01 PM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 960
I pushed the brake lines back on the left side of engine bay, they are pretty close, there is a cover plate that you can hammer back that covers the lines I would get over the cover plug wires as well as new spark plugs, this way your covered. You hear many people burn the wires on the headers, with them over the top you'll never have a problem. Summit sells some anodized ones that are around 35 bucks. The header install is not bad, just time consuming as others said, you could have no experience and do it yourself using guides as long as your patient. The biggest pain is raising the car up high enough to put them in and of course getting off the old manifolds.
07-19-2003, 07:08 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 891
i would really like to do it myself but kinda worried about me screwin somethin up. i already have one broken manifold bolt i really don't need a second or a third. do the hooker long tubes use the very last header bolt on the driver side? if they didn't that would make my life easier. if i did do it myself, how do i get my car up that high for me to get them in that tight space? just a regular jack? where do i get block off plates for the egr? you guys are the greatest!
07-19-2003, 07:35 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 960
well theres really nothin you can do about breakin the header bolts, it might happen to the shop guys-in which case they may charge you extra to extract them. If their bound to break then it'll happen regaurdless, spraying some penetrating oil on them helps a great deal, and after you get the manifold off you can use vise grips to remove them, if they are real stuck you can buy map gas and heat them up which is real cheap -about 6 bucks a bottle. Its important to use anti seize coumpound on bolts so it doesn't happen again-hopefully this shop does this. As for raising the car, you can use standard jacks. I used them with a 4 by 4 block between the jack and frame support under engine. The headers are long and you have to put an angle on them to get them in. Just be safe, use two jacks on each side with a large piece of wood so you know there can not be accidents, plus put a block under the rear tires also so the car doesn't roll. Removing the parts I thought was fun because you just tear everything out, the egr is simple as well as the air. What I did for EGR is left the actual egr in, and left the vacuum hoses attached this way there is no leak and the hose part, the one that attaches to the manifold I covered with an aluminum pepsi can. I ttok and cut out a large piece then folded it in half poked holes in it and put some RTV stuff on it and put it over the hole. You can do this with both egr holes. Many do this and have no problems. The headers use the back bolts, but its not bad, I used the supplied gasket and bolts and the gaskets are still holding up over a year later. I used a wrench to get them tight. If you use 12 point bolts it will be real easy to tighten. After the headers are on for 2-3 weeks I would retighten them as they will loosen back up, you must do this a couple of times, then they will stay tight. There isn't anything you could screw up unless you burn the wires on the headers. YOu do know you will need O2 extenders right! You can either buy them or make them, I choose to make which is much cheaper and also easy. If you got anymore questions just ask
07-19-2003, 08:39 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MN,USA
Posts: 1,540
Originally posted by D James
I pushed the brake lines back on the left side of engine bay, they are pretty close, there is a cover plate that you can hammer back that covers the lines I would get over the cover plug wires as well as new spark plugs, this way your covered. You hear many people burn the wires on the headers, with them over the top you'll never have a problem. Summit sells some anodized ones that are around 35 bucks. The header install is not bad, just time consuming as others said, you could have no experience and do it yourself using guides as long as your patient. The biggest pain is raising the car up high enough to put them in and of course getting off the old manifolds.
I pushed the brake lines back on the left side of engine bay, they are pretty close, there is a cover plate that you can hammer back that covers the lines I would get over the cover plug wires as well as new spark plugs, this way your covered. You hear many people burn the wires on the headers, with them over the top you'll never have a problem. Summit sells some anodized ones that are around 35 bucks. The header install is not bad, just time consuming as others said, you could have no experience and do it yourself using guides as long as your patient. The biggest pain is raising the car up high enough to put them in and of course getting off the old manifolds.
