Guys I haven't been able to get a stock dipstick tube in since I built my new motor 6 years ago and have been using a junkyard 1990 blazer dipstick tube or something crazy like that. It doesnt make a seal at the top with the dipstick I have and it sometimes shoots a little out (very little on the underside of hood, but it does happen).

I am looking at using the Lokar (JEGs # 625-ED-5001) but wondering how much clearancing is required. If I have a dremmel and some time I should be able to grind it down a little enough to fit in right? Is this the right piece? Is it easy to damage the roundness of it when grinding on it?

I am just trying to fix up a few small issues I have had for a while and get the car 100% safe now that I am spraying (only sprayed on dyno so far) and just fix all the problems I know about so I know when something else is wrong.

Next: new coolant leak; check for blowby/compression/rings status.

 

I had no problem using the stock dipstick on my 4-bolt 383. All I had to do was mark on the dipstick tube where the tube hit, measure that mark to the lip on the tube, and cut that length off of the end.

 

Ya, I may just buy a new stock one since when I changed from shorties to longtubes it had to go as it was so brittle from all the bending to fit around previous headers it was about to snap. I guess it doesnt matter really which I use as long as I cut the end off huh.

 

Yeah I went through the same thing. You just want to make sure the indicator doesn't hit anything when putting it back in. Hate to see it end up wrapped around the crank.

Mine has been fine for almost 2 years now.

 

man the positioning on the damn dipstick tube is RIGHT at the main bearing and that angle to get to the bottom of the pan is pretty much right where the main bearing is... I wish they thought a little more before doing that.

 

I had the same problem. (97 383-D1). Stock stick did not work for me. I purchased the Lokar. Used 1/2 (Lower) part.

Modded a bracket to mount and I also trimed the block tube insert. Fabbed -8an Alum tube with -8an fitting and plug end. Drilled a hole thru the plug, and used the GM stick part with a rod welded to it thru the -an plug fitting. Screws out to read oil level. Great fo FI apps with alot of blow-by.

I also sharpened the end ofthe stick to hang less on the main cap.
B.