line loc question
line loc question
I am getting ready to wire up my line loc with the install kit I got from Thunder Racing. The instructions say to not use the light and switch that came with the line loc and just use there micro switch and mount it in the ash tray. That seems like it would be a little awkward to use.
Is there something I don`t understand about this set-up?
Is there something I don`t understand about this set-up?
I think the switch that TR includes is a master "arm" switch... turns on the +12V power source, but doesn't activate the Line Lock. You use the Hurst trigger switch for the shift lever, in series with the "arm" switch to activate the lock. Purpose of the "arm" switch is to prevent you from accidentally activating the Line Lock when you aren't planning to use it.
That is kind of what I was thinking, but in the TR directions it says you will not use the fuse holder, switch or light that are included in the Hurst Roll control package. And no where in there directions does it say anything about hooking up that switch.
Also, on step 11. it says " Find a suitable spot for lighted microswitch and mount it. Remember, the line loc will lock the brakes in whatever position they are in when the solinoid is activated.Be sure to place the switch where it will not be unintentionally activated. "
I`m confused... or stupid.
Also, on step 11. it says " Find a suitable spot for lighted microswitch and mount it. Remember, the line loc will lock the brakes in whatever position they are in when the solinoid is activated.Be sure to place the switch where it will not be unintentionally activated. "
I`m confused... or stupid.
With the Thunder Racing installation kit when everything it hooked up according to their directions you step on the brakes press the lighted microswitch button (maintained) and then let your foot off the brakes. Your car now has the front wheels locked, do your burnout and then press the button again to release the line lock. It works really good, I have it on my M6.
You probly shouldn't use your line-lock on the line as the name implies. Instead use it after you roll through the water box to heat your tires. IF you really wanted to use it on the starting line you should use a momentary switch, no a toggle switch.
I have mine double switched... an arming switch which puts power to the circuit and lights up a Yellow LED mounted in teh A-Pillar, and SMT Tactile Switch that I built into my Billet Shift **** that is used as the activation switch.
Roll up with it armed, press and hold the switch in the sifter, and the brakes are locked... Light'm up, roll out... then stange, lock it up again, and pre-load everything then launch.
Roll up with it armed, press and hold the switch in the sifter, and the brakes are locked... Light'm up, roll out... then stange, lock it up again, and pre-load everything then launch.
Originally posted by chevyboy_z28
ive read some guys mods lists and seen that some have this in their automatics...for what?
ive read some guys mods lists and seen that some have this in their automatics...for what?
A lot easier on the rear brakes than trying to hold the car steady with the brake pedal while a set of 28x10.5 15W ET Drag's heat up......
.
I used a switch from Radio Shack and mounted it on my shifter so I can hit it with my thumb. It's only a momentary switch, so it only activates the lock while you hold it. That way I didn't need an arming switch. Even if I press it while driving nothing happens if I'm not pressing the brakes too. Also I positioned it "out of the way" of my normal driving grip.
I use it for the burnout, but I also use it at the tree. Once I'm staged I hold the button with my thumb while I bring up the RPMs and start to let the clutch out. I can hold the car at the line, even though I can feel the clutch starting to push the car. When the light turns green I release the clutch and the button at the same time and floor it
I use it for the burnout, but I also use it at the tree. Once I'm staged I hold the button with my thumb while I bring up the RPMs and start to let the clutch out. I can hold the car at the line, even though I can feel the clutch starting to push the car. When the light turns green I release the clutch and the button at the same time and floor it
Thats the way I have always done it, and thats the way the Hurst Line Loc comes. That`s why I was confused when I started to to read up on the TR wiring instructions. I really don`t care for the way they have it.
Originally posted by Mikey97Z
I used a switch from Radio Shack and mounted it on my shifter so I can hit it with my thumb. It's only a momentary switch, so it only activates the lock while you hold it. That way I didn't need an arming switch. Even if I press it while driving nothing happens if I'm not pressing the brakes too. Also I positioned it "out of the way" of my normal driving grip.
I use it for the burnout, but I also use it at the tree. Once I'm staged I hold the button with my thumb while I bring up the RPMs and start to let the clutch out. I can hold the car at the line, even though I can feel the clutch starting to push the car. When the light turns green I release the clutch and the button at the same time and floor it
I used a switch from Radio Shack and mounted it on my shifter so I can hit it with my thumb. It's only a momentary switch, so it only activates the lock while you hold it. That way I didn't need an arming switch. Even if I press it while driving nothing happens if I'm not pressing the brakes too. Also I positioned it "out of the way" of my normal driving grip.
I use it for the burnout, but I also use it at the tree. Once I'm staged I hold the button with my thumb while I bring up the RPMs and start to let the clutch out. I can hold the car at the line, even though I can feel the clutch starting to push the car. When the light turns green I release the clutch and the button at the same time and floor it
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