Let's try to solve my 2+ yr alignment problem...
I call it an inner tie rod socket basically its a pipe with some adapters (for most racks) on one side and on the other you put a half inch breaker bar.... if you have done ball joints this should be EASY... Just make sure you torque them back into place and if memory serves me correctly you "peen" the ends with a hammer or crush the end with a big pair of slip joint pliers so that they dont spin off from vibrations (if you torque it right they normally dont but going str8 from service manuals they say to peen them or squeeze them so that they dont back out) just remember to take it to an alignment shop for the toe setting when your done....
Also with your problem of the car comming out of alignment all the time make sure the alignment bolts get torqued real tight after they are done adjusting them and also make sure you check the bushings for wrotting... If there is oil on the bushings its VERY likely they have rotted out or are moving which will require replacement of the bushings or control arms (for those of us lazy people with lots of $$ to spend on whole control arms lol)
either case if it aint worn out dont replace it and to check the inner tie rods simply jack up the vehicle. put jack stands under it to support it and then place a jack under the control arm so that it similates actual ride height (dont have to be exact just get most of the tension off of it so that you can check it properly and not be fooled into thinking a bad tie rod is good cause the suspension is hanging down) then shake the tire back and forth slightly if you feel any play in there then grasp the dust boot where it meets the rack and gently feel around untill you find the end of the "socket" (where the rod meets the big end inside the boot its easy to feel once you find it) then shake the tire again while your grasping the boot if you feel the "rod" moving and the "socket" isnt then the inner rod is bad... if they both move the same amount then its a good indication that its good if there are any questions email me or pm me and ill see if i cant give a better description
Also with your problem of the car comming out of alignment all the time make sure the alignment bolts get torqued real tight after they are done adjusting them and also make sure you check the bushings for wrotting... If there is oil on the bushings its VERY likely they have rotted out or are moving which will require replacement of the bushings or control arms (for those of us lazy people with lots of $$ to spend on whole control arms lol)
either case if it aint worn out dont replace it and to check the inner tie rods simply jack up the vehicle. put jack stands under it to support it and then place a jack under the control arm so that it similates actual ride height (dont have to be exact just get most of the tension off of it so that you can check it properly and not be fooled into thinking a bad tie rod is good cause the suspension is hanging down) then shake the tire back and forth slightly if you feel any play in there then grasp the dust boot where it meets the rack and gently feel around untill you find the end of the "socket" (where the rod meets the big end inside the boot its easy to feel once you find it) then shake the tire again while your grasping the boot if you feel the "rod" moving and the "socket" isnt then the inner rod is bad... if they both move the same amount then its a good indication that its good if there are any questions email me or pm me and ill see if i cant give a better description
both lower control arm bolts are used for aligning the vehicle.... book says one for camber the other for caster... Well they both change camber and caster just one is primarily for camber while the other is primarily for caster.... but if you move one of them the other will change slightly but a good alignment shop will be able to do it right.
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jasonduaine
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
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Jun 4, 2015 09:29 AM



