first of all my car is OBVIOUSLY NOT RUNNING RIGHT. I've taken steps to improve it since ive posted about it last. there are no more SES codes, I fixed the knock sensor issue. I have some exhaust leaks that refuse to be fixed so that cant help.

326rwhp / 302rwtq
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...77515580jnlyZd
these runs are made with an unlocked 3500 rpm TCI converter.
I dont know what happened on 3 of the runs. car seemed to be dying really early and it was REALLY lean. engine-ruining lean. its clear to me when the car runs like that on the street (which only lasts for a few seconds and rarely happens) so I just keep off the gas till it passes.
Honeslty I thought my car would make more, I thought it was running pretty good. had I known there were still problems I wouldnt have dynod it. As I stated in other posts this is the only performance car ive ever ridden in/driven, so I don't know what 350 rwhp, 400rwhp, or higher feels like.

TTPerformance (who are some pretty cool guys and are awesome with LS1s I have heard) said that getting long tube headers, fixing the exhaust leaks, gutting/ditching the cat, and getting a better fuel pump should bring the power up to where it should be. they did say the car sounded absolutely mean. guess my car has more bark than bite. the way the power carried all the way to 7000 rpm took away from the pain of only dynoing 326. I hope that when the car is in good running order it will carry power like this. looks like ive got some more some work to do to get her running good.

 

After clicking that link there is no doubt what so ever you have some serious ignition issues and or something else.

 

seems to me like you have a fuel issue. since its really lean and gets worse as rpms climb. i wouldnt worry about all the headers and other crap until you get it to dyno smoothly. figure out your problem and fix it instead of making a begginer mistake and just throwing parts at it.

 

what problems could it be? I fixed all my SES codes, I need to fix the header leaks. the slip tube on the MAC header is damn near impossible to get it to seal. I have tried moving the primary around, moving the clamp around, everything short of welding and buying a new header. the leak is before the O2 sensor also.

I dont understand what could cause the surging and lack of fuel. it does it at any rpm under any throttle then goes away as fast as it comes. when it was running correctly on the dyno it ran up to 7000 rpm and doesnt look like its losing fuel. usually when a car runs out of fuel it sharply drops, no? the A/F ratios on the "good runs" arent bad at all. When I tested the fuel pressure before it never dropped below 43psi all the way up to 6200ish rpm. what could be causing this lack of fuel if its not the fuel pump? the only things in line are the filter, the lines themselves, the fuel rails, the injectors, and the computer controlling the injectors.

heres the 2 runs where it wasnt that bad:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...77555806NKXMuv

edit: the drivers side spark plugs were also very black when I removed them to check them while the passenger side spark plugs looked very good. I didnt change them because I didnt do anything to fix the problem that caused them to get fouled in the first place and didnt want to ruin another set of plugs. This probably killed some power, not sure how much.

 

Hey I was there today (TTP), but I guess I left right before you ran your car. I had the Admiral Blue LT1 Corvette. It sounded nice when they were backing it up onto the dyno.

I don't have and answer for you, but the fact that the power goes all the way to 7k RPM leads me to believe that you have some sort of restriction in the exhaust, maybe your cat is clogged.

 

yeah i remember your car, you have a downright gorgeous vette.

 

Fuel looked fine on the green run, styaed even the whole way..

Did you data log it to see if you were getting kr? Also, what lifters and what lash are they set at.

 

If you have an unlocked converter doesnt that mean its basically slipping under acceleration?

How did you fix the SES issue and do you have access to a datalogger?

 

Yes, the numbers would be slightly higher if the converter was locked. how much higher I do not know. the shop had the stuff to lock an LS1 car but not an LT1 car.

I had two SES codes, one was 42 ESC error and the other was a low MAP sensor reading (due to my cam.) I did the resistor mod for the knock sensor which means I should have no knock retard ever. The low MAP sensor code doesnt come on now. all I did was remove the map sensor than reinstall it.
I have an AKM cable but can't seem to get any datalogger to work with the car. I did manage to get a log using freescan I believe but not only do I think it recorded wrong (I dont understand how to read it) it would be an outdated log.

the lifters are comp Rs and theyre set properly. about 1/16th of a turn past zero lash on a 7/16" stud

 

Later on you are going to want to back those Comp R's out to zero lash, but right now I agree that there are other issues.

Exhaust leaks are a killer too, use some Permatex Copper Ultra Seal Silicone where the tubes fit together, that will help the exhaust leak problem.

Bret