LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

LE3/355 supporting mods?

Old Jul 3, 2006 | 08:54 AM
  #1  
SLeePer350's Avatar
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LE3/355 supporting mods?

Ok people - I am in the process of purchasing a nitrous-ready forged 355 (vette block). The heads AND cam are both LE3's and my question is simply what are some of the major supports I will need to run with this combo? I say this hoping that some of the parts from my current bolt-on 350 (see signature) will transfer over.

I know my CSI water pump will definitely work fine. What about the 30 lb injectors? Lloyd's website mentioned 36 or even 42 lb'ers to get 410-430rwhp...so will 30s not be enough, or will running them only hinder the hp? The intake manifold has been ported by lloyd as well and is mated to a 58mm tb. I plan on spinning to motor to 7k in case this changes anything.

Also - my true dual 3" flowmaster setup - how well will this work with the aforementioned 355? Any other comments, ideas, or suggestions please let me know! Thanks guys!

Last edited by SLeePer350; Jul 3, 2006 at 08:56 AM.
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 09:12 AM
  #2  
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Re: LE3/355 supporting mods?

Dual 3" is plenty of flow.

30#s may push up against the 85% duty cycle threshhold.
36# or 42# would not hurt, but they may help.

From your sig, it looks like you have the supporting mods you need
Just be sure to install the heads and cam with quality components
(1-peice pushrods, 1.6 roller rockers, lifters, etc ...)
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 09:12 AM
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Re: LE3/355 supporting mods?

Running them will increase the injector duty cycle, which if it's too high would hinder performance. I was running stockers on my LE1 setup and it ran ok, but once I switched to 30#er's it really helped out and the car ran smoother. Personally I would get a larger injector, but you could run it with the smaller injector if budget didn't allow it for the time being.
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 09:43 AM
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Re: LE3/355 supporting mods?

Awesome - I think for now I better stick with the 30s unless I can find a killer deal on some 36's. My budget is already getting stretched thin, because as this block goes in, a clutch swap is also neccessary. Kinda ridiculous that I am on the stock clutch at 89xxx miles holding up to 400+ crank hp.

Another question while we're at it - what's the easiest way to do a compelte engine swap - out through the bottom OR the top??? I've heard mixed opinions on both and am not sure what would be easiest.
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 09:49 AM
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Re: LE3/355 supporting mods?

Out the bottom, hands down.
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 09:52 AM
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Re: LE3/355 supporting mods?

Originally Posted by SLeePer350
Another question while we're at it - what's the easiest way to do a compelte engine swap - out through the bottom OR the top??? I've heard mixed opinions on both and am not sure what would be easiest.
That's a topic that sparks rather heated debates

My personal opinion is to lift the car up off the engine if you can.
In fact, the hawk is lifted up right now; getting the LE gear installed.
(and a new TC if I can locate one in time).
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:08 AM
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Re: LE3/355 supporting mods?

Out the bottom is by far the easiest. 10 bolts on the bottom (6 K-Member, 4 Trans mount), four on the top (struts) and pull the PCM wires through the firewall and you're done. It's also better because you can assemble everything outside the engine bay....your knuckles will thank you Oops, forgot about the ABS lines, gotta disconnect those too.
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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Re: LE3/355 supporting mods?

you should put it all together, log some runs and see where your at. Every motor is different but your 30s may work. On my old lt1 heads I ran 30 lbers to 10s. Made 429rwhp through a 9" and 4.71s and duty cycles were arond 85%. I'm now at over 475 and and only have 37s. Of course..this is all based on if you have a wet nitrous kit or dry. If you have a dry setup you def. need more injector.

Last edited by 95Bird; Jul 3, 2006 at 11:01 AM.
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 11:04 AM
  #9  
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Re: LE3/355 supporting mods?

the motor is nitrous ready however there is no nitrous being installed at this time. (pistons, etc are ready for it though) it will remain N/A for quite some time as far as i am concerned.

and after searching some more i stumbled across Jeff95TA's write up for pulling from the bottom - wow! not only a great document but it convinced me that i should just pull the body off the engine.

if anyone in the philaldelphia area would want to help - there will be some beer and free runs at the track on me!! looking to do this swap sometime in the next few weeks being as that the engine is being assembled as we speak.

any takers?
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