I did the fuel pump because mine died all of a sudden. I do not think the stock injectors could keep up with this setup. There are alot worse places to spend 260 bucks.

I had originally thought of 2.5 inch because of the info posted by OldSchoolSS
showing:
A 2.5” dual system is good for a 513hp engine with zero loss…
A 3” dual system is good for a 812hp engine with zero loss…

Lloyd says 3" and he certainly has not steered me wrong, so im really confused which to do now

 

nice results, the 2.5 duals would probly be fine for a while

 

Great numbers for the LE1 package. I'm very happy with my LE2 head LE2 emission cam setup.

 

2.5 is what u would need in this case. 3 inch is overkill and hurts the gc.

 

bringBackCamaro, very nice results and I know what you mean about going bigger. I myself am very happy with my LE package which has a cam a smidge smaller then yours. Once the few bugs were worked out and I found out how easy it was to get emissions exempt, I was like damn, I should have went LE2 with the cam. Don't forget to post up the graph.

 

for that kind of power, it'd be a good idea to switch to a bigger injector just to keep your injectors working at less than 90-100% capacity at WOT. a new fuel pump is a cheap, good way to upgrade

 

Man this thread makes me anxious to get my car back on the dyno, my best pull was 374rwhp at 5800, then I started getting valve float. If my new valve stem seals would ever come in from discount I could shim my springs....

 

I would still go with 3" true duals.

I got these parts . . . .

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...55652_-1_11525

(555-30662)

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...49870_-1_10265

(289-24222)

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...52880_-1_11533

(555-30643)

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...53274_-1_11527

(555-30733)

I spent about $120 at the muffler shop getting it installed. They added a few 3" pieces of pipe and a couple of pieces needed to be bent.

A 58 MM TB will help a lil (3-5 HP at the most over your 52 MM TB) but I would get the exhaust first and port the intake second. I would upgrade to 58 MM TB after that.

Re adjust the rockers to about 1/16 past zero lash and you will be good to go.

That should put you REAL close to 400 RWHP and 375 RWTQ if you can get some hands on tuning to tweak it on the dyno.

 

I didn't see it posted, so I'll ask for clarification.

What lifters are you using?

Congrats on the impressive numbers.

 

If he's worried about noise just get it run out the back too, it only cost me $300 to have it all welded up and run out the back for my setup, 3" from collector to exhaust tip.

 

I've figured your heads were a lot like stock, so don't worry too much about that. A good VJ and quailty porting should get you over 400rwhp easy with your cam.

Either way if you go off of stock castings 365rwhp ain't bad.

Bret

 

Thats assuming there are no bends in the piping and no mufflers.

 

Awesome numbers, can't wait to see the graph.
A good exhaust goes a long way to waking the car up.
And those extra wide band clamps in Lloyd's note above are awesome!

 

I added the link to the mufflers also to the list. I had the turn downs listed twice and no mufflers.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...49870_-1_10265

 

Those are pretty good numbers for such a mild setup. I wonder how much less power an a4 would make with the same mods.