I am basically looking for my mild 383 400 rwhp. The motor is basically a flat top forged piston 5.7 rods with arp bolts and a eagle cast crank. I will be using 30lb svo injectors, 52 or 58 tb dont know for sure, Long tubes. Which heads and cam setup would you guys recommend for my 383 this is my everyday car so it doesnt have to be crazy basically looking to make the power with what i have. Also what do you think it would run with a M6 trans, 373, 26x10 slicks and 150 shot some suspeion mods, aswell as a coldair intake.

 

I would say le3's with the same cam. Your 383 is going to give you the torque under the curve that wouldnt be there with a 350. I I dont think it would be too wild. But if its only those two options I would say the le2's

 

I would always go as big as you can with the heads and then control your power level with the corresponding cam choice. Much cheaper to upgrade cams then port your heads again.

 

picking between the LE1 and LE2 heads would be a budget choice. If you have the extra $$$, get the LE2 heads.

LE3 heads are really reserved for the complete package with LS1 air lid, mono blade, ported intake, 1 7/8 headers, 3" true duals, etc using a pretty big cam and spinning some good RPM. With all of these complimenting parts, the LE3 heads can make another 10 HP over the LE2 heads.

If you have a more common set up with a CAI, elbow before TB, 58 MM TB, 1 3/4 headers and cat back exhaust, you might only see 3-5 HP ovr the LE2 heads since these other parts will be more of a restriction than the parts listed in the above example.

This might or might not justify the $300 difference in price for some peoples build ups depending on their budget and HP goals. That $300 can usually be spent else where to see more gain (better converter, better headers, better tuning, etc, etc).

Cam chioce would be more about the cars gear, weight, stall, shift RPM, etc.

Give me a call and we can go over your goals (driving style, drivability concerns, etc) more in depth and we can get you a set up that will work best for you and your budget.

I would suggest getting the bigger 2.00/1.56 valves in there while we are at it regardless of just getting the LE2 heads with Ferrea 2.00/1.56 valves and PAC 1218 bee hive springs ($1750 heads and cam) or whether we do the LE1 heads and upgrade to some Manley 2.00/1.56 valves and go with the Crane dbl springs ($1450 heads and cam). Unless you are on a REAL tight budget, go ahead and get the larger valves.

Just based on this e-mail, I would say get the LE2 heads and then we can do a custom cam in the high 220 to mid 230 duration range (depending on what drivability concerns and shift RPM you are after) and in the .560 to .600 lift range (depending on what springs we end up going with).

Lloyd

 

i have a golen 383 and the le2 heads. it is a mean running engine. it could be a DD if gas wasn't so expensive.

 

I vote for LE2 setup

As for what it will run, A 383 with a tuned LE2 setup ,if you are willing to launch the thing hard with a 150 shot and slicks i dont see why not you wouldn't be running mid to high 10's
Another thing to consider if using nos and slicks is your 10bolt will it hold ?

 

le2 you need bigger heads for the 33 extra cubes. I would also consider some bare tfs heads and just have them lightly worked. They have the cc's you want.

 

Golen has new CNC ported heads that are making even more power now and the midrange torque is WAY stronger. All around a great head. I saw a pump gas 383 engine on the chassis dyno making 443 rwhp. It had a factory CNC ported intake also.

 

LE2 heads+custom cam to meet your needs.
If that happens to be the standard grind, cool.
If it ends up being custom, no problem at all

Lloyd will hook you up.

I wouldn't do LE1 heads for this project , you'll kick yourself later.

 

That is exactly what i was thinking. I will do the LE2 and a mild cam in the 220-230 ish range so i will still be able to drive it everyday and still run low 12's high 11's.

 

That should not be a problem, that's pretty much what I have.

 

i still am rolling around on the mail order tune. i need to get this thing dyno tuned. i am sure there is a lot more hp in it. but i am not disappointed though. runs mid to high 11's on street tires.

 

what kind of tq numbers do you put down? Interested to see.

 

I'm sure it will run a little stronger once its got a good tune in it. A good tune is often under valued.
You must have just missed the switch over to the new CNC ported factory heads they are now offering. They kick *** and are brandnew factory castings.
The new heads have 184cc port that doesnt have flow seperation and tumble above .500" lift. Its rare to have a high velocity port in a factory head with good high lift flow numbers and not have flow seperation. Somthing I've never seen from any other ported factory LT-1 head either hand or CNC ported. This head gets close but doesnt go into sonic choke. And it has a laminar flowing exhaust port that a boost engine simply needs.
For an engine with a design HP goal of 550 hp or less, street or track, I wouldnt spend the big money on aftermarket heads when these will get you there for a lot less $$$$.

 

Do you guys do CNC head work for Golen now?