Knocking sound and oil pressure issue.
Knocking sound and oil pressure issue.
Hi i am new to these boards seeing as to i just got my 1994 camaro z28 about a month ago. well the engine had alot of wierd kinks and stuff got em all straight and the car was running great. then just earlier today i was driving along and realized the throttle started to feel wierd. then i looked into it when i got home and i cant get oil pressure anymore and there is a knocking sound coming from the engine. i think a bearing might be going. the engine has 172k on it but the tranny was just rebuilt. do you guys think i might need to rebuild the engine? i checked summit but dont know what kit to get to rebuild it because i think its probably a bearing. and the oil pump is probably gone to wich is probably y i am having bearing problems now.
Last edited by mel0n666; Mar 19, 2009 at 09:17 PM.
If you lost OP and starting hearing a tick/knock then it's probably a rod or main bering. This is not something you can do over night as the motor is gonna have to come out and go thru a complete tear down. Find a good machine shop in your area that can clean up and inspect the block to make sure everything is ok and also do any machining that will be necessary (bore, line hone, and any extra goodies you go with). First thing, drain the oil and check for metal. Same thing happened to me 9 years ago before I built my 383 and it was a main bering (same exact symptoms - lost op and immediate tick/knock).
ok i read about other people with same problem. i know i will have to rebuilt the whole thing at this point. now im just wondering what i should get to rebuild it with that is at least budget. like 1.5-2k max. i am looking to at least toss in some performance upgrades since im gunna have this whole thing ripped apart theres no use in ripping it apart 2 times.
if you only plan on spending 2k at the most you wont be upgrading much. you could pick up a short block for 900 cam for about 150 and head job for another 900. but then that only leaves you with 50$ for unexpected cost. if you shop around you might find some good deals. but your looking at 500 or so for a good machine shop if you do the rebuild yourself leaving you w/ only 1500 for parts. all im saying is that it adds up fast man. what kind of upgrades did you have in mind?
now im thinking about raising my budget and building up a 383 stroker. sure it will be a good amount but that will be worth it as far as i can see. i have found some 383 kits like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...X:IT&viewitem=
and some for about 900 just for the rebuild which doesnt seem like much and i was planning on doing the top end eventually anyways.
and some for about 900 just for the rebuild which doesnt seem like much and i was planning on doing the top end eventually anyways.
that rotating assembly is pretty nice for a budget rebuild but dosent mention that your block will be w/ the machinest a bit longer for clearancing the new stroke. which means more money for the shop. pretty much you need to decide what your power goals are vs how much your looking to spend and any other plans you have for the car i.e; nitrous or forced induction...
clearancing for a 383 isn't really that bad depending on rods/bolts of course
my basic eagle 383 kit just required a little notching in the bottom left corner below every cylinder. some with beefier combos though have had to grind the pan rail, and grind into coolant passages which will require block filler
my basic eagle 383 kit just required a little notching in the bottom left corner below every cylinder. some with beefier combos though have had to grind the pan rail, and grind into coolant passages which will require block filler
A nice quality 383 is going to cost right around $7200 to build, if you have a shop do it for you, if you do it your self you might save $1500-$2000 on labor, might. Either way you can't get around the price of the machine shop, unless you have access to all that, and the know how or someone with the know how to do so.
i am planning on doing most of it i am going to bring it to a machine shop i have a friend who might know some people who could do it really good but ya it shouldnt cost over 6000 seeing as im doing most of it myself.
that is really expensive and i would rather do it myself because i have never rebuilt an engine and would really like to learn how. the only reason im rebuilding instead of buying a crate engine is because i wanna lear about all this stuff. my dad knows how to do most of it so he will teach me. but ouch my wallet.
ok i read about other people with same problem. i know i will have to rebuilt the whole thing at this point. now im just wondering what i should get to rebuild it with that is at least budget. like 1.5-2k max. i am looking to at least toss in some performance upgrades since im gunna have this whole thing ripped apart theres no use in ripping it apart 2 times.
My engine costed 7k with untouched heads (It does have new valves, but stock size).
If you are spending 2k, forget any performance parts you need to reuse everything more or less.
If you have 6k plan ahead of time or you will over shoot big time.
well im gunna get a stock rebuild kit. im going to get new oil pump. going to get head gaskets. and am thinking about getting http://www.elliottsportworks.com/lt1.html the le1 kit with the bigger cams. gunna get the le port done for 200 annd am planning on getting headers while the engine is out. if you guys see any flaws or anything i should change let me know. according to some things i have read the le1 kit even with bigger cams(see below) will work with stock internals. also i have the automatic tranny in my 94 z28. just had the whole tranny rebuilt so it should be able to handle the power boost according to a friend of mine.
Cams im thinking about.
226/230 .565/.565 111 LSA. - 1900-6200 RPM
NON-EMISSIONS version of 223/230 cam mentioned above. Mild to choppy idle.
Good HP/TQ through out and a very usable power band. Best choice for "most people"
using stock bottom end. Minimum 2800 stall and 3.42 gears for B body. Comparable to
Comp 467 XFI cam.
Cams im thinking about.
226/230 .565/.565 111 LSA. - 1900-6200 RPM
NON-EMISSIONS version of 223/230 cam mentioned above. Mild to choppy idle.
Good HP/TQ through out and a very usable power band. Best choice for "most people"
using stock bottom end. Minimum 2800 stall and 3.42 gears for B body. Comparable to
Comp 467 XFI cam.
Last edited by mel0n666; Mar 20, 2009 at 06:17 PM.
does anybody know what rebuild kit i will need for my 1994 lt1?
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch
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