im getting 8 degrees of knock retard at WOT. and at anything more than 30-40% throttle im getting at least 1 degree of knock retard. the car is a beast in 1st and second gear, but I attribute alot of that to the 3500 rpm stall. above 80 mph it just doesnt pull that hard. I have MULTIPLE exhaust leaks due to a wonderful rock that I couldnt see one day. Im pretty sure these are what is causing some of the timing retard. I also have 1.6 rrs but i got an LT4 knock module too.

how much power could I be leaving on the table with this knock retard problem?

anyone have problems with sealing the header slip tube? my mac header slip tube leaks and I can not get it to seal. im thinking of getting a better clamp to put around it.

 

Set car on fire and start over, my best guess Just kiddin, bump for ya

 

The LT4 km WON'T HELP. Do a board search and find the resistor ya get at Radio Shack and install it inline.

 

Huh...ive never heard that before. Why doesn't it help? I just want to completely do away with it but it kinda gives me alittle peace of mind.

 

hmm, that makes me think about the MAP sensor. could I get a resistor for that so it doesnt go crazy with my 6 inches of vacuum?

 

The KM only works on what it is tuned for and anything more WILL cause it to pull timing.It wasn't tuned for exhaust leaks,RR's,headers,loud exhaust,ect.

 

Oh ok. The lt4 isnt quite as sensitive as the lt1 km though is it?

 

No,not from what I've seen.The LT4 will stand a little more noise but whenever ya are pulling timing ya got a LOT more noise than either will stand and they pull timing.

 

[false] knock can be caused by many factors such as aftermarket headers, bigger-then-stock camshafts, noisy valve train components or just busted bushings and other such suspension noise.

Personally, my knock sensor hole was partially filled up by cement when my block was being worked on so that the sensor never screwed all the way in. This caused about 5-7 degrees of false knock depending on gear and throttle position. I eventually got pissed and programmed out all knock using LT1 Edit. This is a better (and cleaner) road to take instead of the resistor method IMHO. Now car runs great and does not pull timing anymore.

However, you should be careful becuase a bad batch of gas *could* destroy your engine

 

lets see, my car has all of that lol.

I dont have LT1 edit so I guess the resistor mod is my only choice. or deal with it... but I want my 8 degrees of timing back.

 

The resistor method is very easy. Do a board search and get the ohm's and installation instructions. Ya can get the resistor at Radio Shack.

 

How exactly do you tune out the knock sensor? Any tuner can do it right?

 

I am sure other tuners can, but I only have experience with LT1_Edit. This tuner gives you a few tables to work with to adjust maximum allowable knock retard based on RPM and some other factors. I just "zero'd" out the tables to allow a max of zero knock and that's it.

 

So your telling me if your running a loud azz exhaust setup that is basicly open headers into race mufflers dumping under the car, that it's not going to cause knock retard?

Are you sure on that?

Mike

 

I never said that a loud "azz" exhaust wouldn't cause false knock; it very well can... that is unless you program it out or use the resister method. Every setup is different.

Knock is basically a specific noise picked up by the sensor, like a "ping" when you bang your header with a wrench. I'm oversimplifying it, but the purpose of knock is to pull timing if the sensor hears a specific noise usually associated with detonation which if left unchecked can cause serious internal damage to your engine. I said aftermarket headers can cause false knock because they sometimes produce a similar sound to detonation -- as far as the knock sensor can tell. Playing it safe would be to determine the cause of your false knock and try to fix it without tampering with the sensor, but this very hard to do.