i just did a cam swap, and i'm getting alot of knock retard... but its not consistint. i drove for a good 1/2 hour without getting any at all, highway and city driving.

but other times i get it even at idle, i was seeing 5 degrees(thats all i allow the computer to take out at low rpms)

 

Yeah, I have some of the same problems. Mine was pulling 5 degrees at idle when I had a loose rocker arm. I'll probably just end up having all of my knock tables programmed out.

 

if it was all the time i would but since its speratic i rather not.

 

Do a search and get the resistor part#from Radio Shack and install it in line to the CPU.
False knock from exhaust or RR's will kill performance.

 

does this disable the knock sensor?

 

This might be a stupid question, but do you have an LT4 knock module?

 

yeah i have the lt4 knock modual. sorry i thought i had that in my signature.

 

Yes,It tricks the CPU into thinking the sender is connected and there is no knock in the engine whatever it might be picking up for knock.
Had the same problem after headers and that fixed it.I had the LT-4 module too.

 

so would it not be able to detect knock from a cheaper grade gas or something pinging if you did this?
if so, that could be detrimental to your engine, so i wouldnt be recommending this to anybody who fills on something other than premium

 

If you want performance,what other grade of gas ya gonna use?????

 

tell me about it i have 15 degrees of false knock at wot,and my xe 230/236 cam on the dyno stops pulling at 5900rpm, still dynoed 386rwhp,so iam hoping for 400 or close to it when i take out the knock.should i have pcmforless just desensitize my knockl module or what?

 

You could,but the resistor does it and you can always enable it again by taking the resistor out.

 

Is there any way you could rig up some sort of a switch that would allow you to switch the knock sensor on and off? Like when you went to the track you could turn it off, but during daily driving have it on?

I guess the resistor would do that, but depending on underhood location could be a pain in the ***.

 

Yes,cut the right wire and mount a two position switch on the dash.One side with the resistor one side without.Depending on where the switch is,that is what you are running.Just running 4 wires inside and hooking them up correctly.

 

Forgot to mention,if you drive it right during the week,it isn't going to matter about a bad load of gas because I'm sure you aren't going to fill with 87 Octane.Most of the problems are from false knock and nothing to do with gas and you probably are not tuned on the ragged edge.