I just put over 500 miles on my stroker 383. It's been running fine except the 2 times I tried to floor it and it wouldnt shift. It hit 7000rpms before I relized something is screwy. That next day I had my scanmaster installed. I noticed I get 3.0-5.0 degrees of knock when at 85% throttle and at wot I saw 6.0. didnt notice any during normal driving until today. Today I had my wideband installed. The battery was disconnected at one point. Now I get knock whenever I touch the gas just a little. It's odd that it's doing now. I'm thinking the computer just needs to relearn some things since it was reset but I could be way off. I'm working on getting 2 gallons of race fuel tonight to see if that helps. I'm starting to worry that I may have screwed something up when the stupid tranny crapped out. A/F has been in the 14.7-15.3 range when cruising and at idle. Any suggestions or thoughts?

 

Well I added a full bottle of Torco mach series accelerator and it actually helped alot. I added a full bottle to a full tank. I still get knock but not as much as before. were as before I would get it just by giving it some gas, now I have to go harder to see knock which is still around 5 degrees. Any suggestions?

 

With your 383, it's possible that the pump gas available just isn't cutting it. In these times of penny pinching people putting in regular octane gas in all their cars, the premium seems to be going sour or is being mixed with regular gas. You said you tried racing gas and it helped a little bit? If it did, then there is your problem. You can also try changing gas stations. Where I am here in Oklahoma for school, some gas stations make me have crazy knock retard while others don't.

 

hey whats the compression set at on your 383

 

Pretty high. I think I'm deep in the 12's. Not sure what the dcr or scr is.

 

What's the fuel rating in Bahrain? Is it rated the same as here in the States?

 

No. I belive the highest here is 89 mabey 91. I poured 2 cans of the addative and I still get up to 6.0 knock. some things I noticed was it's starting to warm up here so mabey that's playing a part. with all the torco I used I'm starting to think it's false knock. I have the stock 94 lt1 knock module.

 

I would get an LT4 knock module and go from there. If your compression is well over 12, and the max octane you can get there is 89 or 91 like you said, it's possible you'll have to mix race fuel in with your gas anyway.

 

Well here's another update. Tonight was alot cooler than the day was and doing the same driving I saw mabey 0.1 degrees of knock. I guess it's the heat + my c/r + the crappy fuel = knock. I need to find a solution to driving it in the hot weather. It's only going to get hotter here, way hotter.

 

Here's a thought. Maybe you actually have a preignition/detonation problem and the knock system is doing it's job. Perhaps trying to lower combustion chamber temperatures would help. I'm kinda partial to this product.
http://www.evanscooling.com/main21.htm.
It's expensive but the alternative you have is much more expensive. I don't suggest you try to "trick" the engine by using another knock module since the result of actual knock is catastrophic especially in a hi po engine. If you were seeing "false knock" like from noisy RR's that's one thing but your problem doesn't seem to be that type.

 

Is that water pump still holding?

Ya I am having the same issue with my new motor. I am 12.0 static on a 357. I haven't been to a wideband yet, but... Try pulling a little timing. You will loose more power if its pinging than you would if you just pulled enough to help it. How much are you trying to run?

I think I ended up pulling @ 3 degrees across the board @ WOT on my mail order tune and that got rid of most of it. As long as I leave the knock sensor turned on I never actually here any pinging.

Once I turned off the knock circuit and its sounded like marbles in a diesel.