Chevycobb

Looking at shoebox's tech site this is my understanding of how to adjust my nsa rr's and comp r lifters. it's my first time doing it and want to make sure i fully understand it before doing it, so please correct me if I'm wrong

-place guide plates then the studs on top of those and torque to specs.
-place rocker on stud and (hand?) tighten the nut while turning the pushrod until i reach that exact point where the pushrod won't turn or just won't move up and down but still turn with effort??
-tighten an additional 1/4 turn max. for comp R's
-drop the allen set screw and tighten

seems to easy, and if it is, then good. I know I have to turn the crank and do it in a sequence, and that's not a problem because the motor is on a stand right now, so that will be easy.

shoebox

If you are using poly-locks you can hand tighten until you just feel any drag on the pushrod. Revisit my page for the recommended preload for Comp R's. It will run with 1/4, but it they recommend less.

Chevycobb

i'm just picturing it in my head... so when I set the rockers with #1TDC, the valves are still closed, but when I turn the crank to #6 TDC, the ones I had already adjusted will then begin to open and close? sorry for the amature questions...just trying to learn

firebirdStud

I realize you are new at this, but I set mine with the motor running. It is the only good way to make them all perfect. I back off one at a time, until it clicks, then tighten it by hand until you feel resistance. From that point, I go another 1/2 turn, and set the screw. I do one side at a time. I don't know if you are at a point if you can start it or not, but that is how I do it to get them all perfect!
Hope that helps.
~Cody

NastyTA

Half a turn of preload is WAAAY too much, especially with Comp R's. You want .002"-.004" of preload with the motor cold. Tighten the poly lock until you start to feel drag on the pushrod, then add 1/16 of a turn. That will get you close. Be careful not to turn the poly lock when you tighten the lock screw Also remember EOIC to make sure the lifter is on the base circle of the cam.

Mtrhds94Z

I prefer to adjust with motor running also ...but you still have to do it statically, to get it running...

97bowtie

This is how I've always adjusted valves on any car I've worked on. I've never had a problem and your eyes won't be burning when you're done.

Adjusting intake valve:

Rotate crankshaft until the pushrod on the exhaust valve (of the same cylinder) just STARTS to move up. Stop rotating engine. Set intake valve to zero lash (easiest way to find zero lash is to tighten the rocker nut while rotating the intake pushrod...once you feel resistance on the pushrod while rotating it, stop tightening the nut). This is zero lash. For most lifters, give another 1/4 - 3/4 turn. For Comp R lifters, you will want to set them at zero lash or 1/10 turn at the most. Repeat.

Adjusting exhaust valve:

Rotate crankshaft until the pushrod on the intake valve (of the same cylinder) has gone up and back down. Just as the intake pushrod reaches the bottom, stop rotating the engine. Set exhaust valve to zero lash (easiest way to find zero lash is to tighten the rocker nut while rotating the exhaust pushrod...once you feel resistance on the pushrod while rotating it, stop tightening the nut). This is zero lash. For most lifters, give another 1/4 - 3/4 turn. For Comp R lifters, you will want to set them at zero lash or 1/10 turn at the most. Repeat.

NastyTA

Yeah, thats EOIC, easier to remember that way. Exhaust Opens; adjust the intake. Intake closes, adjust the exhaust. Repeat 8 times. Zero lash plus 1/4 turn for stock style lifter.

busta9876

I've always used EOIC for adjusting solid and hydrollic cams, works great every time, no adjusting after initial startup!

start at #1 like said above, and being on the engine stand, makes it very easy, rotate crank 90 degrees and go through the firing order, do all the intake rockers on first go, then do all the exhaust rockers. should be able to get them all done quickly.

in the engine bay, i use a remote starter and bump the starter...and do one bank at a time, watching the rockers using EOIC.

good luck!