Today I tried fixing the TPS to no avail. I hooked up a voltmeter and got a reading of .32 with the TB blades closed. From what I understand this is ok..but I still have the code and the car still runs crappy.

The car pulls or tugs slightly at idle, is hard to start, and is running rich as hell. Im getting in the area of 8 miles to the gallon.

Anyone have idea what I should do next? I would go buy a new TPS but I dont want to waste money at the same time...

Ive also heard this has been a problem with Holley TB's which I have...

I found this during a search....

The Throttle Position (TP) sensor provides a voltage signal to the PCM that increases as the throttle blade angle increases. This signal voltage will vary from approximately .5V at idle to 4.8V at WOT. The TP sensor is one of the most important inputs to the PCM for governing fuel control of the engine.

DTC 22 Will Set When:
TP sensor signal is less than .2V with engine running, and RPM greater than 400. Condition must be met for 3 seconds.

Action Taken (PCM will default to):
The PCM will determine fuel and air calculations using calibrated values from a default table. The transmission will have maximum line pressure, no TCC and no 4th gear in hot mode. The MIL will become illuminated.

DTC 22 Will Clear When:
A current DTC 22 will clear when a low signal voltage below the calibrated DTC 22 threshold is no longer detected. A history DTC 22 will clear after 50 consecutive ignition key cycles without a current DTC 22 being stored.

Since we know that you are under .2V, disconnect the TP sensor and check the voltage between the gray and black wire, it should display over 4.0V. If it doesn't probe the black wire with a test light connected to battery +. If the light comes on (or have over 4.0V with meter) then the gray wire is either open or shorted to ground. If not then the black wire is either open or shorted to ground.

The gray wire is a 5 volts buffered reference signal. If it's shorted to ground, DTC 22 will set.

The dark blue wire is the signal wire back to the PCM.

What should I do next?

 

maybe you should try replcing your PCM?

 

put the stock TB back on and see what happens.

 

Hey Matt. I've gone through about 4 different throttle bodies on my car. All of them have given me fits with the idle .

I would put the stock one back on and see what happens. Get those other problems sorted out, and then you can work on fixing the TB issues. I can almost gaurantee the idle "hanging" up at 1500-2k is a TB deal.

good luck pimp.
Ryan

 

Thanks Ryan, I know the PCM is ok..and it seems to defenitely be the TB....hmm...back to the drawing board I guess....

 

You're sure it's not leaking air??? Feel around the TB and intake elbow and all the hoses... If it's a big enough leak it will cause the car to run rich because the MAF is reading way more air than would actually be going into the engine. It would also try to pull off idle and it would idle high as well. Just a suggestion, that's what it sounds like to me but based on the mods in your sig I don't think you would be ignorant enough to miss that (hopefully, no offense hehe)

 

Since you checked it and verified it was over .2V have you tried turning the key 50 times to reset the code? That should be all you need.

 

Since you checked it and verified it was over .2V have you tried turning the key 50 time to reset the code? That should be all you need.

 

I had the exact same problem with my Holley. Its very easy to fix. Grind the bolt holes a little so you can adjust the switch right or left. Install it back and with the car running turn it until it reads correct voltage and tighten back up. You need a scanner to read the volts and maybe another person to help you.

Nick

 

Ive read this somewhere else too which Im guessing will fix it but the problem is I dont have a scanner handy....Ill see what I can do Ill guess for now...

Ive checked for vacuum leaks a 100 times now too, no leaks at all...

Grrr.