How many of you run them and do they need to be welded after proper adjustment? Summit who sold me mine said to weld them in place once the adjustment is set. Is the true?
HVY SS

 

Yes. We use them on all our race motors, once proper adjustment is set they should be tig welded.

 

I have them, once lined up to where I was happy, I just snugged them really good. I plan on a tig weld in the future, im still working the bugs outa mine

 

So should they be welded or not? If not I plan on using locktite on the studs so they never loosen.

If they need to be welded do you adjust each set for every cylinder, then remove and weld them?

If not do I just grind enough, and leave the two pieces butted up, or can there be a little gap between the two pieces?

 

 

I dont have a tig welder Is it a requirement?

 

I would say Yes. A Mig or Arch welder can cause splatters and the last thing you want is slag or metal in the engine. Tig's make a nice clean weld.
HVY SS

 

I just installed the comp guideplates yesterday. What a joke. only two rockers line up perfect, a couple more are pretty close, and 4 of them are really effin bad. I decided to just put it together, and I will be looking at getting adjustable guideplates here real quick. For anyone going with por mags or any NSA rocker, go adjustable guideplates. I really wish I had now.

 

I tried the Comps and GMPP ones and the GMPP ones are IMO much better but not perfect. Anyone played with a lot of LT1 heads and can say if there is enough consistency to just get new plate stamped? Even if you need 2-3 differnt size plates per motor.

 

I don't weld them on the motor...

you can make a stripe with a sharpie down the middle, then line it back up...
you can hold it with visegrips....
you can put a single "tack weld" on it then remove them

 

Well, im not going to mig or arc my guideplates on the engine. I cant take it to have it tig welded. If anything im going to grind them to the adjustment I want, then remove and mig weld them. Then I can install them. That would be a pita though, and I want to know if its really needed. Ive seen where others just grind excess material away, then adjust them and torque them, leaving gaps between the two pieces. That didnt seem right to me, lol.

 

Line them up and tack them in place. Remove them and weld and grind to look good and reinstall.
Take the heads with the guides on them to the welding shop and tack them and remove them for the welder to weld.
Not hard at all.
The GM plates FIT.

 

Even with all the welding and fitting they will require less work than even the GM guideplates. On all the ones Ive seen they need at least another 1/8" clearance in the pushrod vally because the pushrod likes to ride against it. Its so hard to find good parts for the LT1 anymore and even the "proven" stuff barely works.

 

Do you understand the whole purpose of a guideplate? Doesn't sound like it.

 

I just got done adjusting for #1 cylinder. Man that sucked. I set the intake PR as close to the intake port as I felt comfortable, and the roller tip or the RR wasnt quite centered on the valve stem. Then I adjusted to get the exhaust centered on the valve stem. I had to remove a lot of material with the pushrod pinch area welded up on these heads.

Now Im gonna weld that one, and check it on the other cylinders. As long as they are all the same Im gonna grind and weld the others to be exactly like the first one. I really dont want to grind/check every one, that would take all day long, lol.