LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Intake Manifold

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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 02:26 PM
  #31  
Jazsun's Avatar
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From: Indiana
Originally Posted by 978Racing
Thanks for the advice....I'm getting ready to pull mine again. I will not do the t-56 conversion until I can get the back of the intake to quit leaking. It will leak on to the clutch and ruin it. Honestly I'm going to try making a gasket for the front and rear of the manifold with rubber trans pan gasket material. I don't know if this has been tried, but I'm open to any suggestions?
From my understanding there is a reason why GM didn't go w/ the gaskets....to many problems w/ leaks. Use the right stuff, trust me it is amazing...kinda like tar. I messed up putting my intake back on and slid the back part...and the sucker still hasn't leaked.
Old Jul 15, 2008 | 02:36 PM
  #32  
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Don't use rubber gaskets on the intake. They will not seal.
Old Jul 15, 2008 | 02:41 PM
  #33  
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
I think that you should paint it all orange, hot pink, or yellow....

That way nothing would look like what you got!

Just kidding sir. Paint it what YOU like, screw what everyone else has or likes.

They don't have to look at it everytime you crack the hood.

-Ivan
Old Jul 15, 2008 | 06:10 PM
  #34  
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True but I want a color that wont cause more heat to be drawn to it. Ill prolly just paint everything black lol
Old Jul 15, 2008 | 06:15 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by bowtiekid
True but I want a color that wont cause more heat to be drawn to it. Ill prolly just paint everything black lol
Color isn't going to make a difference. If you're worried about heatsoaking the manifold, focus on under-hood ventilation. Convection > radiation.
Old Jul 15, 2008 | 06:24 PM
  #36  
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Soo how would I go about that? I know dynamat has an pad you put on the bottom of the hood that helps.. Also I have a harwood 2in cowl hood. Im going to drill 2 or 3 3in holes then make something to block the holes while its raining to keep water off the motor
Old Jul 15, 2008 | 06:59 PM
  #37  
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From: Moore Oklahoma
Let your RTV, or whatever you use cure-out for more than 24 hours before you start the engine. I've always done that and never had any leak problems.

Many people make the mistake of starting the engine before it has time to cure properly. Also, if you're using RTV, the "Ultra" is the best.

WD
Old Jul 15, 2008 | 11:50 PM
  #38  
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Anyone have the part number for trickflow guideplates for an LT1?? I'm getting those and new pushrods so I don't have to worry about it.

Edit: Nevermind, a good search does the trick

Last edited by bowtiekid; Jul 16, 2008 at 09:46 PM.
Old Jul 20, 2008 | 06:59 PM
  #39  
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One more question... What plugs you guys using? Stock AC replacements are something with a smaller gap??
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