red_rocket_z

Guys installing spark plugs on my 97 z28. We got the driver side plugs in but how in the world can you get the passenger side in. Whats the easiest way to do this, what all needs to be removed to get to them. Guys any links, tips, info will be appreciated greatly!

OBE1 95Z28

The stock wires route behind the power steering pulley. You'll need to remove the accessory belt, alternator and the 2 bolts holding the power steering pump (pump can stay, just hanging loose). No need to route the new wires in the stock location. The wires can be routed below the pump.

red_rocket_z

Wow, thats all I need to do to put the 4 plugs in? Some idiot was telling me I may need to drop the motor.

pearlpurple

Yeah he's right for the wires.

For plugs: I have changed plugs twice on my stock 93 Z28 and never have had to remove anything. The pass side plugs are a pain and are done by feel. I have read many posts on this site about how hard it is to change plugs with these cars and yes it is more of a pain than say a 1985 Chevy 1/2 ton but I take less than an hour for all eight plugs so it really isn't that bad. Patience and persistence.

red_rocket_z

pearlpurple, exactly how did you do it for the passenger side. Thats where our problem is at.

hsyr

There really is no advice any of us can give that will make the passenger side easier to do. Believe me, I just changed wires a little over a week ago and I was ready to set my car on fire doing that side. The only thing I can say is to route the wires from the side of the motor first, then under the alt, between the ps pump, to the opti. Only way I could make it work with ripping the new wires apart Take a break everytime you get frustrated, then get back at it. After doing it once, I feel that changing wires on a LT1 is easy Seriously

red_rocket_z

But what about the 4 plugs on the passenger side? Any advice on the best way to get to them?

pearlpurple

First of all just to start how big are your arms? Myself I am a 5' 9" 190 pounds with average forearms. I ask this as I have to really jam my arms down between the manifold (I have stock manifolds) and the body or fender wall and when I am done I have scrape marks on my arms. Scrape marks are cheaper than getting a shop to do it. The last time a shop touched my car in 5 years was this Fall when I got my hood re done.

Tools I use are the 3/8 drive ratchet, short extension, the spark plug wrench and a short socket that fits the hex end of the spark plug wrench. I don't use the extension that much.

I use the short socket because it allows you to slide the ratchet a bit up and down the spark plug socket to gain position and is a lot easier than trying to get the square end of the ratchet to go in the square hole of the socket.

Make sure your spark plug wrench rubber is not gripping the plug too tight, I always work a screw driver into the rubber to make sure it is loose that way it is easier to get the plug socket off of the plug especially when you tighten the plugs up going back in.

For feeling your way around you will just have perfect your own technique once you get it you will see.

This is my method and I don't see all the hoopla when it comes to plug changes with the LT1.

hsyr

To do the plugs, well, try from the top and bottom. No real tricks here, just have a variety of tools that are different sizes for the job. I have headers so that supposidly makes it easier but with LT1's there is no room on the passenger side no matter how you look at it.

OutsiderIROC-Z

I did the first set of plugs, and paid to have the second set of plugs and the wires changed.

MAGIC Z

myself i drilled a small hole in the fender well apron hole just big enough to get a 3/8 drive exstion threw and put the socket on from the other side i can do my plugs in 45 min now first time i did it well just say it was a very long and pissed off day you have to take the tires off and on both fender well aprons there already a small hole bought the size of a pencile on the paaserger side you must be very very careful on mine and a few others i ve done for friends the ac lines are very close i had a buddy hold a piece of wood there just 2 make sure i didnt hit the ac line but that just how i do mine its a whole lot faster and easier for me i have big hands and arms

RedsTA

They are a bitch to do. Some people suggest undoing the motor mount and jacking that side up for the easiest way to do it or just get some longtubes and they become very easy to do.

badAzz383LT1

I have fairly small arms but my headers make it impossible to get a socket wrench on the last 2 pass side ones. I use a offset wrench or a distributor wrench to break them loose and then un screw them by hand. It is a pain in **** but with a lil patience you can get em done fairly quick. I've never paid to have them installed or changed cause it's only a few hours of work if you have never done it before and you feel so much better knowing you installed them right. Just try a few things and see what works best.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

Get one of the short sockets off EBAY - these fit over the plug (plug sticks out the end) and you use a box wrench to turn it. Also get a couple flexible rubber tubes of different lengths to fit over the plug body (Champion makes them, but not sure where they're sold) and also a piece of vacuum tube to fit over the plug electrode - these are like infinitely variable u-joints to use in unscrewing a plug once it is broke loose. You can also stick a long screwdriver in the other end of the vacuum hose to help twirl that plug out. With headers I was able to do 7 out the top, but in the end I had to remove the y -pipe to get the last one from down under. Many of them are easier out the bottom, anyway.

Bud M

Yeah, pulling the y pipe and the starter and going in from the bottom does make it easier.